YM13

This problem goes back a few years. I noticed that the front passenger tire was visually at a slant about 6 years ago when I installed my lift. I took it to get aligned anyways after the lift but the issue was not resolved and the shop even managed to convince me I was crazy and there was no slant. It has been pulling to the right ever since and the outer side of the tire has worn considerably. I took it in a few days ago to get aligned again and described to them the issue. Alignment came back with these #'s:



I do not know much about alignments so I don't know if the .9 Camber is enough to reflect the slant I'm talking about but it seems a little far from the .2 on the other side.

Furthermore, I have the whole front end disassembled and noticed that the passenger side control arm (the problem side) "droops" much further than the drivers. I also noticed that the Cams (I think thats what they are called) are positioned incorrectly. See pictures below comparing the two...

Passenger Side:


Driver's Side:


Note the discrepancy between the positions of the two cams.

Also notice how its pressing up on the bottom of the shock on the driver's side but just hanging on the passenger side.

Position of the cam:





Do the cams adjust this and if so how or is this a bushing issue? Could I adjust it to match the driver's side or should I just tell the shop whats going on? Are these cams what adjusts the camber?

Hope someone can help me out and give me a little info on the workings of these parts.

Thanks a bunch!

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

you can request for the oem values that are encoded in the alignment machine. you can then compare those oem values with the values that you have in your truck
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YM13

Thanks for the reply KZN. I'd like to get a few more opinions on what may be going on because this has been an ongoing problem and is quite frustrating for me. I don't want to get jerked around when I go back in for an alignment and could use some advice whether this is simply an adjustment issue or if the bushings could be the culprit. I understand it may be difficult to say without being physically under the car to see but maybe someone has run into a similar issue before.

It feels like the good side (driver's side) is simply "set" higher and offers a good bit of resistance when pushed down. Does this amount of difference between the two (at least a few inches) equate to .6* of difference on the machine?

YM13

Bump...

aowRS

Your adjuster bolts may very well be seized and the shop simply does not want to deal with the hassle. Two of mine were a few years ago when I replaced lower control arms, lower ball joints, and upper ball joints. I ended up replacing all of these bolts as well and using a generous amount of anti-seize on all surfaces.



Andreas