In need of hardcore wax
#1
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In need of hardcore wax
Alright I'm very naive when it comes to waxing, but its about that time and I have a few concerns. First, I have permanent water spots all over my car (i guess most noticeable because its black) and it looks absolutely horrible on my hood. Secondly, my windows have smaller, but still seemingly permanent, waterspots that actually stand out the cleaner it is.
Both of these issues are driving me NUTS! I need to figure out the best route to eliminating these. I was going to wait until Friday when I go back up to Atlanta and ask a high end car wash, but I figured if there's a DIY way that's just as effective I'd prefer that since I have a few more days.
Both of these issues are driving me NUTS! I need to figure out the best route to eliminating these. I was going to wait until Friday when I go back up to Atlanta and ask a high end car wash, but I figured if there's a DIY way that's just as effective I'd prefer that since I have a few more days.
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I also need that special paint treatment: Permanent water spots, cracking, and what looks like sap in spots(???). I dont l know about you but is this a common problem or did the previous owner of my truck NEVER wax her?? I was considering getting a full repaint, seems like my damage is beyond repairable. Maybe the toyota black paint is just cheap.
#4
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Wonder why when I read your thread title, "In need of hardcore wax" my mind didn't start thinking about trucks.
Something about chains, leather... and other things best not mentioned on YT. Also couldn't help wondering why one would post a request for such things. Thinking that answer might be a lot easier to find on other forums.
Hope I am not the only disturbed one here, but I probably am.
Maybe it's the "Bunta Factor" working against me.
Something about chains, leather... and other things best not mentioned on YT. Also couldn't help wondering why one would post a request for such things. Thinking that answer might be a lot easier to find on other forums.
Hope I am not the only disturbed one here, but I probably am.
Maybe it's the "Bunta Factor" working against me.
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Try using a clay bar of sorts, I believe meguiar's and Mother's have the most user friendly ones... that will also work to remove the water spots on the windows and from the paint...
If the paints really hazy/faded then try some 3M rubbing compound and use a cheap orbital buffer (home depot should have one for $20-30) or if you want to make a great investment get a porter-cable buffer. after doing that if its black try some Meguiar's gold class (great on dark colors but you need a buffer as it takes arm work to prevent smudging) or better yet use Meguiars NXT stuff... it comes off easier and seems to be lasting a decent bit on my 4runner and one of the cars
If the paints really hazy/faded then try some 3M rubbing compound and use a cheap orbital buffer (home depot should have one for $20-30) or if you want to make a great investment get a porter-cable buffer. after doing that if its black try some Meguiar's gold class (great on dark colors but you need a buffer as it takes arm work to prevent smudging) or better yet use Meguiars NXT stuff... it comes off easier and seems to be lasting a decent bit on my 4runner and one of the cars
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I've heard a lot of good things about Pinnacle but it's out of control on price."$75". I searched for the best thing when I bought my new car and I found alot of people were recommending Klasse, All in one "cleaner", then the Klasse glaze. Then put on a couple coats of P21s Carnuba Wax. This 3 step process will give you a liqiud look on dark colors "Absolutlely awesome on black!". Look it up online, they actually sell these products in kits with each other. Lets see some pics when your done!
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Wonder why when I read your thread title, "In need of hardcore wax" my mind didn't start thinking about trucks.
Something about chains, leather... and other things best not mentioned on YT. Also couldn't help wondering why one would post a request for such things. Thinking that answer might be a lot easier to find on other forums.
Hope I am not the only disturbed one here, but I probably am.
Maybe it's the "Bunta Factor" working against me.
Something about chains, leather... and other things best not mentioned on YT. Also couldn't help wondering why one would post a request for such things. Thinking that answer might be a lot easier to find on other forums.
Hope I am not the only disturbed one here, but I probably am.
Maybe it's the "Bunta Factor" working against me.
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#10
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hahahaha sorry bud the secrets out: you're weird! haha just kidding
i've heard several remedies for the windows, the last one i heard was vinegar. went into the process with a pessemistic view, and for good reason....it just made my windows smell like doo doo. anyways, any instructions on the mineral spirits application?
i've heard several remedies for the windows, the last one i heard was vinegar. went into the process with a pessemistic view, and for good reason....it just made my windows smell like doo doo. anyways, any instructions on the mineral spirits application?
#11
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not an expert on wax, but for the windows use a mixture of 4 parts white vinegar to 1 part water. I use the scotch-brite part of the sponge to scrub them with. Afterwards clean it with a good window cleaner. Also a mixture of water and cascade will work on the windows.
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is this effective in dealing with these PITA spots? i'm serious they're small but in large numbers and they're so permanent you'd think they came that way from the factory
#13
I'm gonna do a super duper condensed version of what to do here:
Get a porter cable 7424, or find a friend with one. It's a great investment to just get one yourself though, you'll use it for years to come.
Get a clay bar and some quick detailer for the big paint contaminants.
Depending on how bad your paint is, you'll need either a swirl remover, or a cutting compound if your paint is bad enough. Always start light, and if the scratches do not come out, try a more aggressive compound/pad, then do the light stuff again afterwards. 3M products are cheap and available locally, but there is a huge number of good products out there. Most of it, really, is personal preference. I use Wolfgang swirl remover.
After that, you'll need some good wax/sealant. On trucks and SUVs I almost always go for Klasse. It lasts far longer than any carnuba and only a true detailing nerd will be able to tell a difference. You can throw a carnuba "topper" on top of the sealant for some extra depth as well. Someone mentioned S100 up there, I like that stuff. I've found it goes well with the Klasse on dark colors.
Head to autopia.org if you REALLY want to know your stuff
I buy all my products from www.autogeek.net, check them out.
Get a porter cable 7424, or find a friend with one. It's a great investment to just get one yourself though, you'll use it for years to come.
Get a clay bar and some quick detailer for the big paint contaminants.
Depending on how bad your paint is, you'll need either a swirl remover, or a cutting compound if your paint is bad enough. Always start light, and if the scratches do not come out, try a more aggressive compound/pad, then do the light stuff again afterwards. 3M products are cheap and available locally, but there is a huge number of good products out there. Most of it, really, is personal preference. I use Wolfgang swirl remover.
After that, you'll need some good wax/sealant. On trucks and SUVs I almost always go for Klasse. It lasts far longer than any carnuba and only a true detailing nerd will be able to tell a difference. You can throw a carnuba "topper" on top of the sealant for some extra depth as well. Someone mentioned S100 up there, I like that stuff. I've found it goes well with the Klasse on dark colors.
Head to autopia.org if you REALLY want to know your stuff
I buy all my products from www.autogeek.net, check them out.
Last edited by slus; 05-23-2007 at 07:07 PM.
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Klasse is awesome stuff, I was just going with the basic "find it locally" items...
I have used Pinnacle on my M3 in the past and its great on dark colors, but after it ran out I figured it worth it to look around since I use a ton of wax (2 black cars and the red 4runner
I have used Pinnacle on my M3 in the past and its great on dark colors, but after it ran out I figured it worth it to look around since I use a ton of wax (2 black cars and the red 4runner
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That's why I suggested the P21S.$20 Its seems to be the next best thing that I've found available. Obviously, there's a million options out there, this is just a rub it on, rub it off. No buffers, no mixing, no color sanding, no spuring etc etc etc.
#17
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Wonder why when I read your thread title, "In need of hardcore wax" my mind didn't start thinking about trucks.
Something about chains, leather... and other things best not mentioned on YT. Also couldn't help wondering why one would post a request for such things. Thinking that answer might be a lot easier to find on other forums.
Hope I am not the only disturbed one here, but I probably am.
Maybe it's the "Bunta Factor" working against me.
Something about chains, leather... and other things best not mentioned on YT. Also couldn't help wondering why one would post a request for such things. Thinking that answer might be a lot easier to find on other forums.
Hope I am not the only disturbed one here, but I probably am.
Maybe it's the "Bunta Factor" working against me.
Last edited by YM13; 05-23-2007 at 08:21 PM.
#18
Klasse is awesome stuff, I was just going with the basic "find it locally" items...
I have used Pinnacle on my M3 in the past and its great on dark colors, but after it ran out I figured it worth it to look around since I use a ton of wax (2 black cars and the red 4runner
I have used Pinnacle on my M3 in the past and its great on dark colors, but after it ran out I figured it worth it to look around since I use a ton of wax (2 black cars and the red 4runner
What year M3 do you have? This is what lives in my garage:
/threadjack
#19
P21S=S100
I've never used P21S/S100 paint cleaner before, which might work, but I can guarantee putting just straight carnuba on paint like he's describing wont look too great.... he's gonna need to do some work first
edit: guess I didnt read your first post right.... You are correct sir, P21S will look great on top of the Klasse, but me thinks he still might need some buffing if his paint is really as neglected as it sounds.
Last edited by slus; 05-23-2007 at 09:49 PM.
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The Klasse "All in one" is actually a cleaner. That should get rid of the spots. If you have a buffer, by all means use it. Then glaze. Then if your happy with that, wax with the P21 or later. I didn't hear anything about oxidation, that would be my main concern on wether or not you really need to buff anything out? Your arm may get a little tired....... But you should be able to shine er' up.