durrettsyndrom

wat suspension/body lift can i get to fit 35's? also will i have to get gears or will the mileage be ok. thanks a lot

PoBoy

Need stats on your truck...

durrettsyndrom

oh sorry. its a stock 95 sr5 limited. thanks

EWAYota

try the search button on top, the flashing green one. there will be a ton of info. there are many ways to fit 35's. i have a 94 pickup with 33's and 4" suspension and i can fit 35's but they'll rub. i'll put some cut-out flares on and they should fit better.

GoudyMan

you need at least 6" of lift most likely, if your doing a high travel suspension you will need more then that. but fabtech 6" you should be able to fit 35s.

Robinhood150

You're going to need gears, and if you're actually going to wheel it you might as well throw in some lockers too.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the middle of SAS and I can fit 35's with 2" bodylift ,cranked torsion bar, rear 3" downey lift.
I wouldn't go wheeling with it though and the ride sucks in the front. You can do it with 3" body lift and less crank on the t-bar in front so the CV angle isn't too bad. and change out the auto hub to manual hub. Someone in AZ with 2nd gen ran it like that for a while before SAS.
oh, regear to 5.29 for 5 spd..
wanna see pic? here...
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1...35/IFS35-1.JPG

I regeared the rear to 5.29 with cable conversion toyota e-lockeralready so that's why I put the 35's on.
You can kinda see the front spring hanger on already....
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1...35/IFS35-2.JPG

Flygtenstein

The lowest lift I would run is a 3" bodylift as Anthony pointed out Scott D did some time ago. That rig is now solid axle, but has not been around the boards much lately.

A 1" bodylift, 4" suspension lift and some fender trimming as needed would do it too.

I would run 5.29's with 35's since they are decent with 33's on my 95 now.

Best way to do it? Low lift swap.

Juggalo

About how much would a 4" suspension lift, 3" body lift, 35's on some average wheel's, locker, and gear's (and whatever else I missed) run without labor?

I know it's a lot, but I'd like to have an aproximate estimate, since I will eventually do that set up for my truck

Please me out here with the details

Jboy

Any current 4 in kit on the market and a 2-3 in body lift, your choice! Gears, yes 5.71 or 5.29 will do it. Mileage has nothing to do with it, but your gas bill will and the bill to get everything to do this.

rcrvndl

When I bought my 89 std cab it came with a 4" suspension lift. I added a 2" bl to it. I'm pretty sure I could have added 35's then. But I thought with the stock gears on 33's the motor was a little on the weak side as it was. Plus I knew I was going to sas down the road and couldn't see popping the cash for any kind of locker to IFS is I was just going to cut it off later. Even though I was loosing teeth with every oil change up front I as not spending a single dollar on IFS parts. So re gearing for 35's was out as well.

Now having gone through with the sas with 5" AP springs, 5.29's, hi-steer, front ARB to match the rear and 37 MT/R's without cutting and very minimal rubbing and tons of flex. I'm very happy with the turn out. I'm still sorting out a couple of small details but the truck looks and drives great.

Side note: When I was researching gearing I was told by several different people that 5.71 are weaker than 5.29's. The reason is the pinion gear is even smaller which in turn has even fewer teeth in contact with the ring gear. So the combination of fewer teeth, lower gearing,a locker and bigger tires to me that makes a bad combo, damage waiting to happen.

I would have to say ask yourself how serious are you going to wheel your runner? For me I wanted to complete the Rubicon with minimal breakage. And the piece of mind of knowing I could get over the majority of the trail with having to pick wacky IFS lines. Not to mention drive there and back. For me the Rubicon would be the toughest trail I would want to take my truck on. Even with all the armor in place I walked away with body damage. No worries it's all good. A sticker over the beauty mark "Rubicon 03" and the body work is complete.

Seriously figure out what you want and make a plan to get there. Ask questions surf the web check out your buddies rigs see what works and what makes sense to you. Go wheeling with as many built Toys as you can and see them work. Also check out as many Full Size and watch them work. Most likely you start seeing why toyota's work as well as they do. Then once you have an idea of what you want every upgrade you do goes towards your finished goal. Time and education at this point are invaluable. Wheel with what you have and get an education of driving open/open that to has value. Because as you'll hear from most built guys the truck now drives itself. They have to look for obsticles to challenge them which either causes breakage, body damage or flopping. Either way it gets expensive. For me I like to go out drive safe and sane and come back. I'm not into trail side maintenance that's what the garage is for.

Hope that helps.

RTdawgs

what do you NEEEEED 35s for?

kyle_22r

35s are essential for wheeling rugged mall parking lots

beachtaco

i'm running a 3' body lift with the t-bars cranked about an 1" and i clear 35" BFG MT on a 15x8 wheels for the road. i know i will rub off road. the ride isn't bad. this is with a 88 4runner.

there's another guy running 35" MTR on 15x10 wheels with 4" PC with his t-bar cranked about an 1". he's fine but rubs some off road.

i ran 4.10 gears with my 35" and v6/manual and it's okay for the flat areas but a slight hill or more would suck. 5th gear was useless except to cruise in. i just swapped in a set of stock 4.88 gears and it made a huge difference. i like them but still wish i could have afforded 5.29. the other guy is running 5.29 in his 4runner. i got about 15-16 mpg with 4.10. not sure with the 4.88 yet but i expect 17-18 mpg if i'm lucky.

both of us are in va beach. where do you live?

bigKahuna

You'll need lots of money

Yes, I've spent so much money and so will you.... heres my checklist

1. Lift kit 4 in
2. 2 inch body lift ( go to Roger Brown if you have an Automatic as no one else can help you effectively)
3. New gearing (as Robinhood said) and a locker while your at it
4. New tires and rims Id sugest 15x12 rims as the tires are cheaper(however less $=Less Bling)
5. New Shock
6. and put it all together (good luck)

Wheel your Runner first and make the mods as needed I found out in the end that all I really needed was a little wider wheelbase and a good spoter. You'll be surprised at what your runner can do.

Peace Big Kahuna

RTdawgs

you can run a mild lift and trim your fenders.

but youll need 5.29s.

beachtaco

how much did you have the front cranked? i had mine at 1.5" and took it for a test drive. way to harsh and dropped to 1" where the ride is okay.

durrettsyndrom

oh sweet i live in va beach to dam thats weird. i live in kempsville.

beachtaco

you should check out the local ttora board... forum.ttora-va.com... there's a decent group of toyota owners in HR. just keep an eye out since we get together alot. we're doing a lift install and my front diff this weekend over in lynnhaven.

i grew up in kempsville. 'rents still live there. so if you see a black 88 4runner on 35" with surf racks and a cornfed suspension sticker on the back window, that's me. just flag me down.

we have a run on the 24th out to lynchburg area. mostly fire roads where stockers can go. should be a good time.