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Old 08-29-2008, 06:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Necessary to remove trans for a motor swap?

Hello, I am going to do a motor swap and from reading in the chiltons, it suggests removing the transmission first. Is it necessary to do so? Motor swaps aren't anything new to me but this is the 1st time on a toy. I have a 97 runner with a 193k motor which is coming out and it is connected to an automatic 4x4... Please tell me that I don't have to drop the trans too... Thank you. Forgot to add that I am just swapping to another 5vz-fe... nothing special.
Kevin
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Old 08-29-2008, 10:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've never worked on a 97 but did a swap in my 93. I didn't want to deal with the tranny either so I left it in. The worst part was removing the bellhousing bolts, but I figured that was much better that dealing with the auto tranny.

You might want to check around for a Toyota FSM instead of using the chilton. I know there is an online version for the 93 3.0. Maybe someone knows of one for the 97 3.4.

Jason
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Old 08-30-2008, 06:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thank you for the reply. I downloaded the toyota service manual and it wasn't much help. I am at the bellhousing right now. Ya... what a pain. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Kevin
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Old 08-30-2008, 06:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'd say its easier to remove the tranny first. I've never done it any other way though. I know some guys that have removed the engine without dropping tranny. Might look though the engine swap section and see the writeup there:
http://www.yotatech.com/f159/
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Old 08-30-2008, 06:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Remove the radiator and transmission crossmember, then tilt the transmission down and use several extensions with a flex joint in the middle to get to the top bolts. You can pull everything...I've done it, but...let's say that you're best not to.

And make sure your tranny is supported by a jack with straps.
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Old 08-31-2008, 01:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I had to unbolt the tranny cross member and support it with a jack stand. I took the weight of the engine with the hoist and removed the engine mounts. I could then lower everything down to get some room on top of the tranny. I used every extension I had at the time. Go in from the back, over the top. You wont be able to see what you are doing, it's all by feel. Those were some fun times.

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31 10.5 15 BF Goodrich A/T's
Front and rear diff. breathers
Aisin manual hub swap
Clarion Pro Audio CD player
MB Quart speakers

3VZ-E V6 with fresh rebuild:
Block bored 20 over
Engnbldr master rebuild kit
Heads rebuilt
Engnbldr 1mm o/s valves
Weasy2k stage 1 cams
Cleaned and balanced injectors
LCE ceramic street header kit
LCE pro flow exhaust with cat delete

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Old 09-03-2008, 10:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Just an update. Leaving the tranny wasn't bad at all. What worked for me was to gain access to the top two bellhousing bolts was to loosen the crossover pipe ad to take the lower intake manifold off along with the heater tube. The bolt was sitting righ there. Honesly the motor went in a lot easier than it came out to my supprise. Took maybe 30 minutes to get the motor mated on the dowels on the belhousing. I still hae yet to get everything else buttoned up but thank you very much for the suggestions.
Kevin
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