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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 61
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Necessary to remove trans for a motor swap?
Last edited by Sicarius428; 08-29-2008 at 06:32 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I've never worked on a 97 but did a swap in my 93. I didn't want to deal with the tranny either so I left it in. The worst part was removing the bellhousing bolts, but I figured that was much better that dealing with the auto tranny.
You might want to check around for a Toyota FSM instead of using the chilton. I know there is an online version for the 93 3.0. Maybe someone knows of one for the 97 3.4. Jason
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1993 Toyota 4WD Ex-Cab Auto 31 10.5 15 BF Goodrich A/T's Front and rear diff. breathers Aisin manual hub swap Clarion Pro Audio CD player MB Quart speakers 3VZ-E V6 with fresh rebuild: Block bored 20 over Engnbldr master rebuild kit Heads rebuilt Engnbldr 1mm o/s valves Weasy2k stage 1 cams Cleaned and balanced injectors LCE ceramic street header kit LCE pro flow exhaust with cat delete http://picasaweb.google.com/Green93Toy/MyToy# |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 61
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Thank you for the reply. I downloaded the toyota service manual and it wasn't much help. I am at the bellhousing right now. Ya... what a pain. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Kevin |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 8,916
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I'd say its easier to remove the tranny first. I've never done it any other way though. I know some guys that have removed the engine without dropping tranny. Might look though the engine swap section and see the writeup there:
http://www.yotatech.com/f159/
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~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,726
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Remove the radiator and transmission crossmember, then tilt the transmission down and use several extensions with a flex joint in the middle to get to the top bolts. You can pull everything...I've done it, but...let's say that you're best not to.
And make sure your tranny is supported by a jack with straps.
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1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I had to unbolt the tranny cross member and support it with a jack stand. I took the weight of the engine with the hoist and removed the engine mounts. I could then lower everything down to get some room on top of the tranny. I used every extension I had at the time. Go in from the back, over the top. You wont be able to see what you are doing, it's all by feel. Those were some fun times.
Jason
__________________
1993 Toyota 4WD Ex-Cab Auto 31 10.5 15 BF Goodrich A/T's Front and rear diff. breathers Aisin manual hub swap Clarion Pro Audio CD player MB Quart speakers 3VZ-E V6 with fresh rebuild: Block bored 20 over Engnbldr master rebuild kit Heads rebuilt Engnbldr 1mm o/s valves Weasy2k stage 1 cams Cleaned and balanced injectors LCE ceramic street header kit LCE pro flow exhaust with cat delete http://picasaweb.google.com/Green93Toy/MyToy# |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 61
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Just an update. Leaving the tranny wasn't bad at all. What worked for me was to gain access to the top two bellhousing bolts was to loosen the crossover pipe ad to take the lower intake manifold off along with the heater tube. The bolt was sitting righ there. Honesly the motor went in a lot easier than it came out to my supprise. Took maybe 30 minutes to get the motor mated on the dowels on the belhousing. I still hae yet to get everything else buttoned up but thank you very much for the suggestions.
Kevin |
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