My truck just started running like crap!
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
My truck just started running like crap!
OK a little background to begin...
I bought an '88 pickup with the 22RE in April and it has started up and ran great up until a few days ago. All of a sudden it starts hard (like on the 3rd or 4th crank when it used to start up every time on 1st crank), it developed an erratic idle (you could call it a "loping" idle), and it occassionally stumbles while accelerating.
The problem with it not starting right away seems like it could be not getting fuel, but I can hear the high pitched noise of the fuel pump if I open my door and stick my head out when the key is turned to ACC.
When it is idling funny and I step on the gas, it chokes it out and almost dies. It almost seems like when you forget to turn the choke off on a carburated snowmobile or atv and give it gas and it just bogs.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Rob
I bought an '88 pickup with the 22RE in April and it has started up and ran great up until a few days ago. All of a sudden it starts hard (like on the 3rd or 4th crank when it used to start up every time on 1st crank), it developed an erratic idle (you could call it a "loping" idle), and it occassionally stumbles while accelerating.
The problem with it not starting right away seems like it could be not getting fuel, but I can hear the high pitched noise of the fuel pump if I open my door and stick my head out when the key is turned to ACC.
When it is idling funny and I step on the gas, it chokes it out and almost dies. It almost seems like when you forget to turn the choke off on a carburated snowmobile or atv and give it gas and it just bogs.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Rob
#4
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Thread Starter
I tried changing my fuel filter a while back but the lines were like they were going to break if I undid it so I left it for now.
It shouldn't be bad gas since I got it at the Mobil where I always get it.
Rob
It shouldn't be bad gas since I got it at the Mobil where I always get it.
Rob
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Kentucky
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It could be bad gas if the tanker just stopped by and stirred up the debris and water that was settled on the bottom of the tank. This happened to my girlfriends car over the summer. It wouldn't start and she let it sit and asked me to look @ it. I let it crank for a while and it finally started but ran rough and lacked power. I put some seafoam in the tank and filled up at a dif station and it cleared it up. Seafoam is great stuff
#6
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Originally Posted by rdlsz24
I tried changing my fuel filter a while back but the lines were like they were going to break if I undid it so I left it for now.
Rob
Rob
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#8
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Originally Posted by PirateFins
I'd check out the cold start injector, to see if it has gone bad.
Rob
#9
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Thread Starter
OK it does seem to be a problem with cold starts. Last night I went to start it to drive to my girlfriend's house and had the same problem with it starting hard. I stayed at her place for a few hours and went out to start it and it started hard again. I drove home and turned it off. Then I started it again and it started right up.
Where is the cold start injector? I don't see any mention of it in my Haynes manual.
Rob
Where is the cold start injector? I don't see any mention of it in my Haynes manual.
Rob
#10
Registered User
Originally Posted by rdlsz24
Where is the cold start injector? I don't see any mention of it in my Haynes manual.
Rob
Rob
Next time you go to start it and it doesn't want to put your foot to the floor on the gas pedal. It should start right up.
#11
Registered User
If the motors cranks forever when cold and starts right up when hot it's either the cold start injector or the cold start injector time switch. The switch is what goes bad 90% of the time.
For testing of the cold start injector time switch on 84-88 22re's, remove the connector and measure the resistance between the two terminals. The cold start injector time switch is located right beneath the bvsv valve. The sensor to the right of it is the water thermo sensor (also known as the coolant temperature sensor). The switch should read between 20-40 ohms with the coolant temp. below 86 degrees F and 40-60 ohms above 104 degrees F.
For testing of the cold start injector, remove the connctor and measure the resistance between the two terminals. It should register 2-4 ohms. However, the injector could ohm out correctly yet be plugged.
For testing of the cold start injector time switch on 84-88 22re's, remove the connector and measure the resistance between the two terminals. The cold start injector time switch is located right beneath the bvsv valve. The sensor to the right of it is the water thermo sensor (also known as the coolant temperature sensor). The switch should read between 20-40 ohms with the coolant temp. below 86 degrees F and 40-60 ohms above 104 degrees F.
For testing of the cold start injector, remove the connctor and measure the resistance between the two terminals. It should register 2-4 ohms. However, the injector could ohm out correctly yet be plugged.
#12
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 84sr5yoty
The cold start injector time switch is located right beneath the bvsv valve. The sensor to the right of it is the water thermo sensor (also known as the coolant temperature sensor)
Rob
#13
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Thread Starter
OK thanks guys it turns out I must have messed up one of the wires going into the cold start sensor so the computer wasn't reading that the engine was cold when I went to start it. I fixed that wire and now it starts up on the first crank again, even though it was 3 degrees here in IL this morning haha.
I still get the erratic idle until the engine warms up, though. Could this be because the stock coolant temp sensor is no longer hooked up? I replaced it with an aftermarket one.
Any ideas?
Rob
I still get the erratic idle until the engine warms up, though. Could this be because the stock coolant temp sensor is no longer hooked up? I replaced it with an aftermarket one.
Any ideas?
Rob
#14
Registered User
"I still get the erratic idle until the engine warms up, though."
Is the motor at fast idle when first started up in the morning or is it kind of lugging until it warms up? I would suspect the auxiliary air valve if there is no fast idle when the motor is cold. I can give you the resistance specs on the air valve when I get home.
"Could this be because the stock coolant temp sensor is no longer hooked up? I replaced it with an aftermarket one?"
As long as it's the correct aftermarket part it should be fine.
Is the motor at fast idle when first started up in the morning or is it kind of lugging until it warms up? I would suspect the auxiliary air valve if there is no fast idle when the motor is cold. I can give you the resistance specs on the air valve when I get home.
"Could this be because the stock coolant temp sensor is no longer hooked up? I replaced it with an aftermarket one?"
As long as it's the correct aftermarket part it should be fine.
#15
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by rdlsz24
I still get the erratic idle until the engine warms up, though. Could this be because the stock coolant temp sensor is no longer hooked up? I replaced it with an aftermarket one.
Any ideas?
Rob
Any ideas?
Rob
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by superjoe83
was it a green colored plug? if so then thats why, the computer needs that input
Thanks guys!
Rob
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