poleclimber63

I developed a real loud knocking in my engine just after Christmas 2013. It turned out to be rod knock so I parked it till the Spring of 2014 to consider my options. I decided on a JDM replacement engine.


homeward journey


Then the pull

out!


...
My JDM engine appearently came out of a Hiace van. Nothing bolted to the engine was compatible. I unbolted the ac and PS and strapped them to the side then pulled the engine.



swapping parts


I then swapped all the bolt-on components after replacing TB/WP and all seals and gaskets. This included replacing seals on the oil cooler and oil lines. I also replaced some of the coolant hoses and fuel injectors and seals. The pan and sump also needed to be swapped.


This was left in the pan when I removed it from the old engine!



new block


Almost done!


keeping track of everything


Here's how I kept the bolts and parts straight! Took lots of pics and labelled everything! Made life way easier when I put everything back together a month later.


Done


Back in the truck! I found the whole process much easier with an 8A impact driver, wobble sockets, ratching wrenches, zap straps and penetrating oil. I used OEM seals, o-rings for the cooler, oil lines, coolant hoses, and from Rock Auto, AISIN WP/TB kit, Feltpro gaskets, VCG's. After I realized how to easily remove the bell housing bolts, putting the engine back in was actually quite easy.
I only made 2 mistakes on final re-assembly: pinched an o-ring on an injector and had a fuel leak and accidently installed a plug with a bad gap. After rectifying these issues she ran perfectly and has ran flawlessly for the last 10K km. I'd recommend this job to anyone who faces an engine replacement! Good luck!

aowRS

Awesome thread - thank you. I'd say your oil pan pic was pretty telling...

This is exactly the path I would take should my engine decide to throw in the towel. I'm at 323,200 miles now and holding steady.

How many miles were on your old engine when it went south?



Andreas

poleclimber63

Thanks! My detailed Replacement: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...-progress.html

I suspect the previous owner never changed the oil! My truck only had 227K km = 141K mi. While researching my "noise" I came across a few 5VZ-FE's with rod knock(my problem), but considering the total number of these engines that are around, I imagine it's not common--- but probably quite rare. I couldn't find that many lower end failures. However, when this engine eventually fails, it appears to be the top end, usually a head gasket. There are a fair number of threads dedicated to this. Top end failures are definitely more common.
As far as my engine was concerned, it still ran(even with all that metal in the pan), I noticed virtually no loss of power (but more noise!) but I imagine it would have eventually catastrophically failed!
Some guys will remove the heads, have them planed, and re-install new gaskets. If someone is comfortable with doing this in their carport then, awesome, $$$ saved----- unless the heads themselves are u/s. Rebuilt or re-manufactured heads along with a gasket set, can be the same cost as a JDM (low mileage) replacement engine.... and if you pay someone to do the HG, probably more. Of course, if you acquire a replacement, this may not be totally guaranteed to be foolproof. Just depends where you get the engine. When I did the Math, and came to terms with the work involved, the engine replacement was the clear choice. If it had been a top end failure who knows? It was actually very fulfilling to know I could do it and I did it! AND learned a bunch about this truck!
As for the older 3.0L, head gasket failure isn't a statement of if, but when! Still, if it lasts 20yrs or more, I'd say that's pretty good!

poleclimber63

Well, 14K km and one year later she's running perfect! Last Summer my 4Runner hauled my boat back a forth to the lake without a hiccup!



One year and 14K km later, running like a dream, resting at the Bowron Lakes!




dock at Bowron Lakes




Barkerville BC




Also, a few runs into the woods! The 4WD sure came in handy over the Winter, as well! Next weekend, I start work on the boat: Bellows, trim senders, seals water pump and Gimbal bearing. Once this is done, back to the 4Runner! I'm going to replace the steering rack guide and Tundra brake upgrade. My quandary is what calipers do I use? The 231mm calipers are the best choice but the split 3's do'nt fit over these. I'm not grinding or using spacers. I can't afford to replace 2 sets of rims!! On the other hand, the major advantage to the brake upgrade are the beefer rotors so maybe, the 199mm will do the job.