love vermont hate the rust
#1
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love vermont hate the rust
just want to show everyone out there what im dealing with on my runner. its gonna be a real project as far as i can tell, but hopefully it will be my offroad and winter vheicle only if and when i do get the car i want. the passenger side im sure is just as bad too.
im hoping to fix the holes with sheet metal and do body sealer where i can. then paint it with some rust-oleum enamel paint amd primer.
im hoping to fix the holes with sheet metal and do body sealer where i can. then paint it with some rust-oleum enamel paint amd primer.
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I live in ct. If youre looking to prevent this again, I spray the underside of the truck with used oil and go hammer down on a dirt road to coat the oil. Works great, but I'm not positive how legal it is.
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it was undercoated with that ruber junk but as of now im just going to fix the rust that i can and get it undercoated with this special stuff they put on yahts i forget the name of it.
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X2 on hating rust! I had to do a frame swap to my truck because of it. And oil undercoating is the best way to fight the salt, I plan on doing mine soon.
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So, when are the 3rd gen fiberglass bodies coming out?
I can see effort like this being put into expensive and rare antiques, but a dime a dozen 4Runner?
I used Por-15 on all my rust. Looks great, works great.
#16
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http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html
Eastwood sells a rustproofer that you can spray inside the panels and frame. I've also heard that POR -15 is great but you should go with many small cans of it over one big can because it goes bad once the can is open.
Eastwood sells a rustproofer that you can spray inside the panels and frame. I've also heard that POR -15 is great but you should go with many small cans of it over one big can because it goes bad once the can is open.
Last edited by Nervo19; 09-25-2011 at 08:22 PM.
#19
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Your not alone up there since Pa and most of the northeast went to the liquid brine it is a never ending battle fighting the rust.
I find the best thing to use for the floor pans is the fiberglass resin with the fiberglass mat. It works great it is water proof and it never will rot out again since it seems the floor is always wet or froze solid once the snow is here.
For the frame after repairing I find that Rust-Oleum russty metal primer and flat black seem to hold up quite well going on two winters still looks good .
I find that most undercoatings start to break down and the moisture gets behind it and can never really dry eating into the frame.
Good idea to remove the loose undercoating
I find the best thing to use for the floor pans is the fiberglass resin with the fiberglass mat. It works great it is water proof and it never will rot out again since it seems the floor is always wet or froze solid once the snow is here.
For the frame after repairing I find that Rust-Oleum russty metal primer and flat black seem to hold up quite well going on two winters still looks good .
I find that most undercoatings start to break down and the moisture gets behind it and can never really dry eating into the frame.
Good idea to remove the loose undercoating
#20
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I hear you, my Northeast brothers. Warpigg, your truck looks like my 88 4Runner did ( or still does...). The driver's side floor was worse than yours and my cuz did a quick welding fix for it ( since it's a $936 truck ).
Don't waste your money on the rubber undercoating. If and usually when moisture gets underneath it, she'll rot right under the coating. The only reason that it looks like that, is the snow and salt melting inside the truck which rots the floor out from the inside when it soaks the carpet. Get a rubber mat with lips like the Husky ones for the floor to keep the stuff away from the floors.
As for a undercoating treatment, use the oily ones such as Schmidt's ( Buffalo area) or Carwell Products, etc. They drill into the door jambs in the vehicle to spray the creeping oil inside the body where most rust starts. It gets done once a year. Or do your own.
Get that floor welded correctly with metal because the body mount is exposed and it will flex because it's not solid there anymore. Same thing happened to said 88 and my cousin went right over it. The mount started to flex bending the floor up. Like I said, was a fast but not correct fix.
I've heard of the Eastwood Undercoating/Frame spray. I'm gonna try it this year on my 94. Summitracing.com sells some of their own stuff I believe, but sell Por-15 and Rust Bullet and many others.
Warpigg...keep patching her up and keep driving.
Value is in the eye of the beholder.
Don't waste your money on the rubber undercoating. If and usually when moisture gets underneath it, she'll rot right under the coating. The only reason that it looks like that, is the snow and salt melting inside the truck which rots the floor out from the inside when it soaks the carpet. Get a rubber mat with lips like the Husky ones for the floor to keep the stuff away from the floors.
As for a undercoating treatment, use the oily ones such as Schmidt's ( Buffalo area) or Carwell Products, etc. They drill into the door jambs in the vehicle to spray the creeping oil inside the body where most rust starts. It gets done once a year. Or do your own.
Get that floor welded correctly with metal because the body mount is exposed and it will flex because it's not solid there anymore. Same thing happened to said 88 and my cousin went right over it. The mount started to flex bending the floor up. Like I said, was a fast but not correct fix.
I've heard of the Eastwood Undercoating/Frame spray. I'm gonna try it this year on my 94. Summitracing.com sells some of their own stuff I believe, but sell Por-15 and Rust Bullet and many others.
Warpigg...keep patching her up and keep driving.
Value is in the eye of the beholder.