ManyMods

I know this is an old topic and I have done a search and read through practically all the Yotatech search results, but I cannot find anything that would help me know any TIPS on making the spark plug change easier on a _Supercharged_ 4Runner. I found one post that said:

"Drivers side required taking down the manifold support bracket. Passenger side - just remove the intake conduit and unbolt the electronic coils over each plug. Remember to use anti-seize compound on each plug and torque is 20ft-lbs"

I haven't identified whether the procedure is with or without the SC.

Also, if going _one_ step colder, the plug of choice appears to be NGK #BKR6EKPB-11 or DENSO #IK-20 gaped at minus .005 - .010 from the OE .044 gap setting. Note: I am located at sea level.

Any tips or updates to my information would be appreciated.

dukestr

This procedure is WITH the SC. Here is a pic of the bracket being mentioned. Removing the bracket will provide you better access to the plugs on the driver's side.


FYI: I am running 1 step colder Iridium plugs NGK#BKR6EIX-11

ManyMods

Scott,

Thank you very much for your help. The 1 step colder Iridium plug NGK#BKR6EIX-11 that you are running is a different number from what I showed (BKR6EKPB-11). Does that mean that the plug number I have is _not_ an Iridium plug?

I was reading in the NGK FAQ that for every 75 hp to 100 hp you add you should go one heat range colder. Also, you should set the gap minus .004 for every 50 hp. To me that means that we are in a marginal area if we only have the SC and catback exhaust. Therefore, gapping the stock plugs at .040 or slightly narrower would be fine, or go no more than one heat range colder and gap them at .040. I doubt that there are many who have added 100hp.

dukestr

The name is Duke by the way
That part number designates that those plugs are "Laser Platinum" not "Iridium" ..but it does not mean that those plugs are not good...I have read threads where these plugs were also used without any problems.

Here are different threads you can check out:
thread 1

thread 2

ManyMods

Duke ... (I'm sorry),

I will look at those threads ASAP, but I wanted to say that I just reviewed your webpage and it is really nice. Your info on the Dyno testing is very solid and interesting to me. I will be interested to see what materializes as you do more mods. I am going to try blocking off the through-the-fender intake port and leaving the deckplate off ... and vice versa to see what the difference is, but I doubt I will get my 4R on a Dyno. You might try that the next time you Dyno. Speaking of the deckplate mod, I did what you did by clamping a piece of fiberglass screen on the inside of the box, but then I found a much neater way to do it: Lay a piece of screen across the mouth (back) of the deckplate (cut to the outside circumfrence of the deckplate) and then carefully press the deckplate into the airbox hole. The screen will be pulled taught as the deckplate is seated in the airbox hole. Then you just secure the deckplate to the airbox with the screws and you are done. No sloppy screen material or awkward looking band clamp on the inside of the airbox.

Two more questions. What is the Free FMU mod? Why did you go with the Hayden cooler instead of the TRD unit? I will search around for an answer but I thought I would ask anyway. <g>

Thanks again for your responses.

dukestr

I appreciate the compliment on the website..it is still a "Work in progress"
Here is the thread that lead me to get the Hayden Tranny cooler.
The Free FMU Mod is the brainchild of Gadget. Here is the link

Dashunde

Good info guys... thanks.

Does anyone know if the dealer is supposed to check the gap while doing the install? Is it part of the published install procedure?

ManyMods

No! It is not part of the published procedure. I really do not think that the dealers know too much about it. MY TRD Certified dealer is begging me to keep him in the loop while I advance my learning curve on the SC. I was so-o-o-o anal about the installation, giving a the dealer a copy of the installation manual with all FSM supplements and footnotes that went on forever, that he put his _best_ mechanic on the job. Even with all of this, the guy got stumped along the way on a couple of issues and even left a vacuum plug off the TB. There really is no TRD technical help available for Toyota dealers to avail themselves of. IMO, they should know about things like this and go the extra mile. Heck, I paid for it since they charge a flat rate for 8 hours (times $70.00) and it only takes about 4-5 hours. Also, I am _not_ saying that what I posted about gapping the plugs is conclusive ... it's just what I read in the NGK FAQ. YMMV Of course, my friend who is an truly expert tuner told me to change to one range colder and gap between .005 to .015 narrower. He also said he wasn't crazy about the Perfect Power SMT-6 modules but that is another story. Besides, what does he know, he's a Chevy / Pontiac / Ford guy. <g>

Dashunde

I may be a bit lucky with respect to who is doing the work. The guy (Boone) at Molle Toyota here in KC seems to be pretty sharp and the word is he has done several installs. He didnt bat an eye, and seemed to know exactly why I wanted him to fit the 160deg thermo into his install process.

I might just pay a bit more to have the plugs gapped to .040" while he has it torn apart. Hell, if I ask Boone he might just do it..

My guess is that neither TRD or Toyota want the Dealer mechanics doing much of anything other than what is specified in the basic instructions... all of this "cooling down" (Thermo and plugs etc) might make them bust emissions tests. If this became a regular thing they would all be in the proverbial TrickBag since they market it as "50 State Emissions Compliant".
But what do I know... I dont even have mine on yet

ManyMods

I went to Gadget's website and read the writeup on the FREE FMU, but first I went to the Cartech website so that I could understand what this was all about. Okay, so you add an self-adjusting FPR in to the vacuum circuit for the stock FPR. Now I go back to Gadget's writeup on the FREE (?) FMU and after I finish reading it I realize ..... I ALREADY HAVE THE FREE FMU !!!!

TRD has added a supplement into their installation manual that directs the connection of the stock FPR vacuum line into the Boost port at the rear of the SC. So-o-o, Gadget _is _ responsible <g> for contributing a permanent change to the installation procedure for the TRD Gen 2 Supercharger. I love it when stuff like that happens. <vbg>
PS: Installing the Boost Gauge is now done by simply using the "T" connector supplied with the gauge and splicing into the FPR vacuum line.

ManyMods

Duke ...

I was looking at your Dyno results again and it looks to me as if your times went down, probably because the engine was heating up, but your flywheel to rear wheel loss was about 22%. Normally, you figure a 20% loss for the drivetrain on an automatic so this is pretty good. If the peak increase in HP is to 251hp, then the net would be 200hp. Does this sound right? With the tuning the way it is it looks like the peak HP is reached at somewhere just under 5000rpms.

I have opened up the deckplate again and I blocked off the stock inlet to see how it will run. I may also reinstall my Amsoil filter, after I blot the snot out of it so no oil gets slung around. <g>

I think I will also take out the stock plugs and regap them down to .040. Later on, this Spring, I will install some Denso Iridium IK16 plugs.

Dr. Zhivago

You got a PM.

Dr. Z