toyotadan

Im looking at getting 1.5" Longer coils in the back of my runner...

Has anyone installed any of these? Im currently getting some so I can get a little lift in the back, and crank the T bars in the front a bit..

I was just wondering how good they are, if the lift is too little/too much in the back for a T bar crank etc.... and if there are any problems???

Just need some opinions on this..

Thanks,
Dan

KevyWevy

do a search and you'll find TONS and TONS of info on that. ther are even write-ups on here on how to install them.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

A hint Dan, just about all the 2nd gens on this board have aftermarket coils in the rear.

As Kevy said, plug in Downey, rear sag, ect into our search engine here, and you will have a full night and next day of reading.

And do check out our Tech section, as there are a few installs in there of the Downey rear coils.

And yes, I am running them.

toyotadan

thanks Corey.. I did search and found quite a bit...

There is one thing that I am kinda unsure on though...

I am basically copying someone elses lift, where they lifted the rear and used T bar cranks in the front and a body lift. He suggested that I get 3" Longer than stock shocks in the rear...

This will obviously allow more flex etc... but is it good for the truck? Ive got stock length up front, which is understandable... but I am really unsure on these rear shocks. I cant install them just incase i need to return them, and it is kind of hard to tell from just looking at the rear.

I put in my order for the 1.5" OME's, and as i said before I already have the 3" Longer ProComp ES3000 shocks... should these be good, or should I go with the 2" Longer (If there is a 2" longer shock)

Thanks,
Dan

PS.. i know i could search for this, I looked and really didnt find anyhting

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I am not up on body lifts at all.
But as you can see by the height of my rig, it's about 2" higher in the back over stock, and the T bars are cranked up front to compensate for the height out back.

I am running stock length shocks all the way around.
My rig has been in a few situations where it's been articualted quite a bit, and the shocks have worked fine.

I don't think you need longer shocks back aft unless you are running the Downey/All Pro spacer puck that can go into a Downey or OME coil giving you 1.5" more lift.

Check with Adrain (Flygtenstein) he may or may not be running spacers with his coils.
As you can see, he's pretty articulated there, and can answer you better about a longer shock if you have a body lift which I believe he does.

toyotadan

Thanks again corey... i just have one more question for ya..

Is it possible to "Over Flex" or bad to have too much travel? I know brake lines would need to be extended, but would it be a bad thing to have longer shocks..

I guess that is pretty much what I already asked you... if you cant answer thats alright, ill still give the other guy a shout and ask him.

Thanks,
Dan

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I may have read here somewhere that to long of a rear shock can cause your driveshaft to hit your gastanks skid plate.
That would not be good.

Downey coils come with tha extra length stainless steel brakeline, and a new brake proportioning valve bracket.
I am not sure if OME supplies it or not, but you will need those parts.

If you don't redo the brake PP valve, your rear brakes will no longer work, and only your fronts will.
Again, not good.

That is why Downey coils ship with the two mentioned items, and swayed me to buying that brand of coil over the others out there.
http://pnw4runners.com/tech/downey.jpg

toyotadan

One prob... Im from Canada.. I sure wish I could order all the stuff off the US websites for the price they are advertised for.. but after Shipping charges and exchange rate it kinda gets pricey and just too hard to do...

Flygtenstein

I used to have a 3" Downey kit with long Doetsch Tech shocks.

With that set-up and stock everything else put panhard drop, my shaft was in my tank like stink on poo. More panhard dropping, hammering of the tank, a skinnier driveshaft and a custom gas tank skid had all fixed that.

Now I have cruiser coils with Rancho 5009's and a Downey panhard. My rim to fender is 16" all around with a 1"bodylift.

Take a look at the thread that says "Hey Lee..." That has some good rear flex pics.

Yes you can over flex it.

Yes that will cause problems. They are resolvable, but it is not just a bolt and go.

toyotadan

I dont know if most of those problems will apply to me though. Im not doing the 3" Rear kit, I am only raising it 1.5".... its my shocks that are 3" Longer than stock....

Basically.. is it better to have a shock that extends longer, or stays around stock length?

Im sure you guys have answered this question more than enough times... thanks for helpin me out.

Dan

Flygtenstein

How long are the shocks the you intend to use?

Not in terms of longer than stock, but how long are they extended?

If you wheel it with shocks in the 24 or so inch or longer range, you will get into the tank.

toyotadan

http://www.geocities.com/offroadtoyo2003/shock111.jpg (Incase it shows up as a red x)

This obviously isnt the shock im using.... but from the bottom of the tube to the top of the shaft it is 23"..

From the bottom of the eye mount to the top of the shaft it is 24"..

From the bottom of the entire shock to the very top it is 27"..

I dont know which one is the right one to read off of..

Thanks,
Dan

toyotadan

On second thought just go here.. Geocites sucks..

http://community.webshots.com/user/toyotadan

Thanks,
Dan

mike_d

corey - question for you: in this thread you said you have the 1.5" rear lift and you just adjusted the torsion bars to compensate. i'm planning on doing this to my 2nd gen 4runner, just won't have the time until spring to do all the work. anyway, i also noticed in your picture that you have a pretty heavy front bumper and winch. i'm going to put on an arb with a winch. my brother told me that i probably won't be able to crank on the torsion bars enough to compensate for the weight of the bumper and winch and i'll need to get beefier torsion bars to make the truck level. did you run into any problems like that, or did the stock torsion bars work well for you.

thanks,
mike

CTB

I believe Corey has the Sway-a-Way front 25mm torsion bars up front. They are slightly beefier and stiffer than stock, but are good to use when adding a lot of weight to the front (like a bumper and winch). I'm sure Corey will post his comments here as well.

Flygtenstein

Smells like a 24" extended Rancho to me. What is the part number?

If you use a panhard drop, you ought to be fine. If you don't fully flex it, you ought to be fine. If you wheel it, that is going to hump the tank.

toyotadan

Its a ProComp ES3000 ... number is 32451

Thanks,
Dan

toyotadan

Could I save all the problems by just getting a shorter shock? If so, what do you suggest?

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Just got up from a nap...
As CB said, I am running the SAWs up front.
I had to.

As soon as the winch & bumper were put on, it was not drivable very well.
Maybe with a 22RE it would be, but the weight of the new stuff up front, and with the extra weight of the V6 made driving not safe.

Coming to a stop would make the front end nose dive like a dolphin.
The stock T bars were already cranked up to match the coils in the rear.

Switching to the new T bars I don't nose dive anymore, and they are cranked up also to match the height in the back.

Some run the SAWs up front with no aftermarket bumper/winch, but I would think the ride would be very ruff.

toyotadan

Sport Trucks Unlimited up here in BC is asking $280 for just the coils (Canadian).. is it just me or does that sound a bit steep?

Is there anywhere in the US (Part suppliers) that you think i could order from and get a better price... the Downey Coils come with rear brake line extensions do they not??

Thanks,
Dan