Lightning Audio
#1
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Lightning Audio
I'm considering getting one of their 10" subs. Mainly, what's attracting me to it is the price... but I also heard that Rockford Fosgate owns this company, and I've never had a reason not to like RF stuff. Has anybody heard of them before? Here's a
link to the sub. I plan on also getting a Rockford Fosgate 500X 4 channel amp (65.7Wx4 or 250Wx2 RMS bridged) and using the first two channels to power my new Infinity component speakers that I just finished installing yesterday and bridge the last 2 channels to power the sub. The sub is rated at 200W RMS and 400W peak... do you think that it's too much for the amp to drive?
For those of you who were thinking... "I thought he had a Basslink?". I did... and I sent it back. It was a good sub, but I wanted an amp to power my component speakers too. I didn't want two seperate amps, so I decided this would be the best way to go. I WILL be able to run the component speakers and sub off the same amp, right? Thanks for the advice.
link to the sub. I plan on also getting a Rockford Fosgate 500X 4 channel amp (65.7Wx4 or 250Wx2 RMS bridged) and using the first two channels to power my new Infinity component speakers that I just finished installing yesterday and bridge the last 2 channels to power the sub. The sub is rated at 200W RMS and 400W peak... do you think that it's too much for the amp to drive?
For those of you who were thinking... "I thought he had a Basslink?". I did... and I sent it back. It was a good sub, but I wanted an amp to power my component speakers too. I didn't want two seperate amps, so I decided this would be the best way to go. I WILL be able to run the component speakers and sub off the same amp, right? Thanks for the advice.
#3
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Wal-Mart sells Pioneer and Sony too. Does that mean that Pioneer and Sony are bad companies? I think not. Besides, this is a competition level speaker. If it's really not that good of a speaker, then can you guys point me in the right direction?
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Should not be a problem to run your components off the front two channels and bridge the rear for one mono channel for your 10" sub. I would imangine the amp has a built in crossover, so it will be cake. I don't have any personal experieince with Lightning so I can't help you their. I have owned a few subs in my day (JL 12W5, JL 10W1, Kicker C-12, Kicker C-10 and an ADS 10" sub). I love the JL's. In a properly built box with the correct amount of watts they sound great. I have not owned any of the new Kickers but the older ones that I have owned were a very good sounding sub. I still have the C-12 in my closet. I currently have a JL enclosure with a JL 250 watt mono amp and it sounds great in my open-ended 4runner. Here is the link to my sub.
http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/cs110.html
Martin
http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/cs110.html
Martin
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Pioneer makes a decent sub under $100. They need some watts to push them since they aren't the most sensitve things. Try the Pioneer TS-W255C (new 2003 model much cleaner looking sub than 02 model). It is a 10" sub which will work great in a small sealed or ported box and I believe you can get them at Crtuchfield for less than $100.
Martin
Martin
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well I don't have a sub from them but I do have a amp from them and I have not had anything to complain about yet...i've had it for about 1 yr or something like that.......it powers almost all of the speakers with the subs as in exception. My Concept amp powers my two 12 inch DEI subs. So far it hasn't killed my battery or anything like that.
#9
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Not Lightning
I'd advise you to stay away from Lightning Audio, unless if is for a capacitor. They are the cheap-end of RF. Pioneer has a great reputation, and I'd support them. Look around though. There are ton of subs out there under $100. Even some that shouldn't be =). For example, from the company mine are from Cadence: Cadence Sub . Cartronixs.com has good prices too; they have a 10 W-0 for $92 plus shipping. Tey don't have a huge selection,but you might fin a good buy there.
Zach
Zach
#10
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&(*^#$@!@#$@^$^*(!!!!!!!!
I just spent like 45min doing a damn write up only to have the damn forum pull the crap about not being registered AFTER i registered. Hit the back button to get the "webpage expired" crap and lost a hell of a write up on that damn sub
In a nutshell - the LA sub you have a link to is a very badass sub. For that price, it cant be beat by too terribly many subs. I have used and owned that exact model of sub, and yes you will like it if it's in the proper box.
Use winISD beta to plan out a vented box for it. WinISD beta is a box building program that will show you the overall response in a free air environment. You can find WinISD at www.linearteam.org You will need that sub's T/S parameters to enter the sub into the program's database from there have fun and enjoy. (for sq get the response as close to the 0db line as you can throughout the sub's bandwidth - also try to get the qes fairly close to 0.707 if you go the sealed route. (the qes will be calculated for you and will show up under the box tab)
If you ever compete with your yota with this sub, fire either up or forward but push the box as far back as you can and play 50-52hz. 2nd gen's seem to love 38-42hz and 50-52hz
If you need any help with box design, I'd be more than willing to help you out. Or if you want a great box built for you that's better than any custom shop's box (garunteed) built at a reasonable price, email me.
Steve
I just spent like 45min doing a damn write up only to have the damn forum pull the crap about not being registered AFTER i registered. Hit the back button to get the "webpage expired" crap and lost a hell of a write up on that damn sub
In a nutshell - the LA sub you have a link to is a very badass sub. For that price, it cant be beat by too terribly many subs. I have used and owned that exact model of sub, and yes you will like it if it's in the proper box.
Use winISD beta to plan out a vented box for it. WinISD beta is a box building program that will show you the overall response in a free air environment. You can find WinISD at www.linearteam.org You will need that sub's T/S parameters to enter the sub into the program's database from there have fun and enjoy. (for sq get the response as close to the 0db line as you can throughout the sub's bandwidth - also try to get the qes fairly close to 0.707 if you go the sealed route. (the qes will be calculated for you and will show up under the box tab)
If you ever compete with your yota with this sub, fire either up or forward but push the box as far back as you can and play 50-52hz. 2nd gen's seem to love 38-42hz and 50-52hz
If you need any help with box design, I'd be more than willing to help you out. Or if you want a great box built for you that's better than any custom shop's box (garunteed) built at a reasonable price, email me.
Steve
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How about this one?
Martin
#12
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Re: Not Lightning
Originally posted by White SR5
I'd advise you to stay away from Lightning Audio, unless if is for a capacitor. They are the cheap-end of RF...
I'd advise you to stay away from Lightning Audio, unless if is for a capacitor. They are the cheap-end of RF...
RF owns them as a parent company but does NOT dictate to them how to build subs, nor do they "rip off rf" as you say. Does Jaguar rip off ford's stuff? Does Austin Heily (sp?) do this too? Does toyota rip off lexus or vice versa? I think NOT!
Also, LA's stuff will compete head to head with RF in sq and spl, you just have to be able to install correctly. Install is 1000fold more important than product.
I have used the exact product he is talking about you have not. (not trying to flame you bro.)
steve
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 03-05-2003 at 04:13 PM.
#13
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Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
&(*^#$@!@#$@^$^*(!!!!!!!!
I just spent like 45min doing a damn write up only to have the damn forum pull the crap about not being registered AFTER i registered. Hit the back button to get the "webpage expired" crap and lost a hell of a write up on that damn sub
In a nutshell - the LA sub you have a link to is a very badass sub. For that price, it cant be beat by too terribly many subs. I have used and owned that exact model of sub, and yes you will like it if it's in the proper box.
Use winISD beta to plan out a vented box for it. WinISD beta is a box building program that will show you the overall response in a free air environment. You can find WinISD at www.linearteam.org You will need that sub's T/S parameters to enter the sub into the program's database from there have fun and enjoy. (for sq get the response as close to the 0db line as you can throughout the sub's bandwidth - also try to get the qes fairly close to 0.707 if you go the sealed route. (the qes will be calculated for you and will show up under the box tab)
If you ever compete with your yota with this sub, fire either up or forward but push the box as far back as you can and play 50-52hz. 2nd gen's seem to love 38-42hz and 50-52hz
If you need any help with box design, I'd be more than willing to help you out. Or if you want a great box built for you that's better than any custom shop's box (garunteed) built at a reasonable price, email me.
Steve
&(*^#$@!@#$@^$^*(!!!!!!!!
I just spent like 45min doing a damn write up only to have the damn forum pull the crap about not being registered AFTER i registered. Hit the back button to get the "webpage expired" crap and lost a hell of a write up on that damn sub
In a nutshell - the LA sub you have a link to is a very badass sub. For that price, it cant be beat by too terribly many subs. I have used and owned that exact model of sub, and yes you will like it if it's in the proper box.
Use winISD beta to plan out a vented box for it. WinISD beta is a box building program that will show you the overall response in a free air environment. You can find WinISD at www.linearteam.org You will need that sub's T/S parameters to enter the sub into the program's database from there have fun and enjoy. (for sq get the response as close to the 0db line as you can throughout the sub's bandwidth - also try to get the qes fairly close to 0.707 if you go the sealed route. (the qes will be calculated for you and will show up under the box tab)
If you ever compete with your yota with this sub, fire either up or forward but push the box as far back as you can and play 50-52hz. 2nd gen's seem to love 38-42hz and 50-52hz
If you need any help with box design, I'd be more than willing to help you out. Or if you want a great box built for you that's better than any custom shop's box (garunteed) built at a reasonable price, email me.
Steve
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yes install is most important, but a brand name can be better cause it will do what it says. Like RF the dont overrate there products. It it says 500 it can atleast do it or take it (depending on application). My personal opinion would to be to look into a kicker or rf sub. Stay away from questionable products.
like this alittle more then what you want to spend but an amazing sub.
http://www.ikesound.com/Prod_Details.asp?Prod_Id=1005
check out that site they got some good deals and they offer warranty. Ive delt with them before and they are well known to be a good company.
www.thezeb.com is having some grat deals on rf subs to check them out
you have alot of options just need to look around.
Chris
like this alittle more then what you want to spend but an amazing sub.
http://www.ikesound.com/Prod_Details.asp?Prod_Id=1005
check out that site they got some good deals and they offer warranty. Ive delt with them before and they are well known to be a good company.
www.thezeb.com is having some grat deals on rf subs to check them out
you have alot of options just need to look around.
Chris
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subs
I just bought two kicker subs off of ebay. They are C12's and both were brand new still in the box. And yes, they are the 2003 model. I paid $106 dollars shipped to my doorstep.
I also bought a brand new box for them also. It is a dual 12 box with 1.25 cu. ft of airspace per chamber. It is also 3/4" MDF with gold plated connectors. I paid $40 dollars for that shipped to my doorstep.
So I got two subs and a box for $146. You can't beat an ebay deal.
Just make sure you buy the stuff that is brand new.
I also bought a brand new box for them also. It is a dual 12 box with 1.25 cu. ft of airspace per chamber. It is also 3/4" MDF with gold plated connectors. I paid $40 dollars for that shipped to my doorstep.
So I got two subs and a box for $146. You can't beat an ebay deal.
Just make sure you buy the stuff that is brand new.
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Use winISD beta to plan out a vented box for it. WinISD beta is a box building program that will show you the overall response in a free air environment. You can find WinISD at www.linearteam.org You will need that sub's T/S parameters to enter the sub into the program's database from there have fun and enjoy. (for sq get the response as close to the 0db line as you can throughout the sub's bandwidth - also try to get the qes fairly close to 0.707 if you go the sealed route. (the qes will be calculated for you and will show up under the box tab)
#17
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I really can't make a argument for or against Lightning Audio's sub...seeing that I have seen them but never really gave them any serious thought. I'd like to throw Audiobahns sub (AW1006q or AW1206Q) up in the mix. I have heard nothing but good things from guys that have them. I've yet to get mine still trying to decide on one big one or two smaller ones. I have seen guys at competion with audiobahn subs, but never with Lightning audio subs. Audiobahns are reasonable and I'd run them against anything in their price range, but to each his own. Take a look at them http://www.audiobahninc.com/
. and : http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/audiobahn_specials.html
MY $0.02,
outkast`
. and : http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/audiobahn_specials.html
MY $0.02,
outkast`
If you do what you've always done, then youre gonna get what you've always got
#18
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audiobahn subs are purley spl subs they lack sq in my opinion. But there a good band for the buck sub. I would add them to the list so rf, kicker or aduiobahn. CHris
#19
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Another question... how do I look at the power rating to see if it'll match up with my amplifier? Do I want the sub to be rated lower than the amplifier can drive? For example, the sub is most likely going to be powered by 150W RMS, and I've looked at one in particular that's rated for nominal power handling at 140W RMS. Would that be ok? Some of these subs, like audiobahn, are rated at 400W RMS!! Is that too big of a sub for that amp to efficiently drive? Keep in mind I'm going to be putting this in an extended cab pickup... not a 4Runner. So I don't need anything too big.