Lighting wiring supplies?
#1
Lighting wiring supplies?
I have KC lightsx4 up top on a light bar but have yet to wire them up further than the light bar. I need to still do my switches and wiring to the battery. My Q is should I install inline fusing and keep it as I preplanned & already wired up separately my outer KCs on their own wiring route & inner KCs on their own wiring route. I did that so when I crank them on they dont kill the switch or melt wiring. Was that smart? I also am running 12 GA wiring so far. I have but have not installed two 20AMP switches. Are those going to work ok? I want to hear from the guys that have wired up KC lights like these or any light with what I assume is 100 Watt lamps. I have heard of remote switching units but not sure how good they are if at all. Any input would be welcomed and I would be thankful for any. I just dont want to do anything wrong and have a melt down as I have before with lower wattage fog lamps. Thats scary.
#2
Definitely use a relay like this 30Amp relay from Radioshack. It will keep you from having to run all your juice through your switch (and possibly melting the switch).
For my lights, I ran power from the battery, to the relay, then to the lights, with a 20Amp fuse between the relay and lights. To switch the relay on and off, I ran power from an IGN/ACC wire to the switch, then to the relay. With this setup, I can only turn on the lights when the key is in the ACC or IGN position.
FYI, the current required to open the relay (i.e. current from the switch) is incredibly small compared to the current going through the relay to the lights, thus preventing you from melting the switch. Also, you could use multiple relays controlled by multiple switches for different lights, or 1 switch controlling one or more relays. Just make sure you have enough relays to handle how many Amps all your lights will draw (and a good battery ).
Here is a pic of my relay. I put it on the firewall next to the master cylinder than ran the wires through the factory hole in the firewall to the switch.
For my lights, I ran power from the battery, to the relay, then to the lights, with a 20Amp fuse between the relay and lights. To switch the relay on and off, I ran power from an IGN/ACC wire to the switch, then to the relay. With this setup, I can only turn on the lights when the key is in the ACC or IGN position.
FYI, the current required to open the relay (i.e. current from the switch) is incredibly small compared to the current going through the relay to the lights, thus preventing you from melting the switch. Also, you could use multiple relays controlled by multiple switches for different lights, or 1 switch controlling one or more relays. Just make sure you have enough relays to handle how many Amps all your lights will draw (and a good battery ).
Here is a pic of my relay. I put it on the firewall next to the master cylinder than ran the wires through the factory hole in the firewall to the switch.
Last edited by szf2; 08-22-2003 at 04:24 AM.
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