MistaMota

Hey Guys/Gals
I've had my 97 4runner sr5 for a very long time already since 98...
about 5 years ago i lifted it with a suspension lift either 3.5 inches or 4... i really can't remember exactly
ever since then i've had an issue with the front CV axels. from previous threads i've learnt that i needed to also drop the diff, and i have by 1 inch with the drop kit from toytec

now after being on the 4th set of front cv axles because the rubber cracks grease spills out and then they become wrecked
there has to be something different i can do. different axels? a different diff? what?
i can't be the only guy with this problem..

thanks in advance
Jeff

Malcolm99

Are you buying OEM axles, if you can't afford OEM axles, try replacing the axle boots with OEM and good grease (dirty job). What lift did you put in the front, it is possible to go to high, Sonoran's set up allows one to set it to high if you don't follow the instructions. I've had aftermarket Frenco axles boots disintegrate after 4-5 years because they where not made of proper materials, put on OEM boots and they seem fine now, time will tell.

Jomoka

Chinese aftermarket CV shafts seem to use really crappy rubber. Running a lift, even with a diff drop, is hard on those boots. My wife put a set of O'Reilly axles on hers and the boots tore up within about a year, year and a half. She swapped back to OEM shafts with replaced OEM boots, but her main fix was to swap on some Tacoma manual locking hubs so the boots aren't getting worked on every single drive. But it really seemed like the rubber used on the aftermarket shafts was just lousy, and prone to very quick dry rot and cracking. Might work better in a stock situation, but lifted? No way.

I put a lift on mine about a year and a half ago, same height, with a diff drop. I was concerned that the 200K mile original boots would rip, so I stretched one side. And left the other alone as a control. The stretched side tore within a few months, whaile the untouched side is still fine, although it seeped a tiny bit of crease out of one of the ends. I just took the ripped side off and replaced with new OEM boots.

habanero

I've had the boots destruct in 3 ways.
1) When I first lifted the oe boots protested the change in angle. Not blaming them as they were 13 years old.
2) Replaced with O'Reilly new axles. The rubber itself degraded, looked like dry-rot but they were only a year old. The cracks were all over the boots.
3) Replaced those with A1Cardone. The rubber was a little better but the lobes on the boots rubbed each other due to the angle (2 1/2" front lift w/diff drop). Easy to tell, rings of indent all the way around the boot, usually on one or two lobes. They eventually chew holes in themselves.

And that's when I stretched the boots just enough to not rub. That worked very well with the newer boots and is the way I'd go.
I have also seen the use of a large thick o-ring to keep the lobes separated. I do not know how well it works but it seems like another option.

For overlanding purposes I've gone to manual hubs. Now the cvs don't turn constantly so no boot rubbing much of the time. Extreme, though, just for boots.
I have since rebooted these cvs because age of boots. I did not stretch these, the next set I will because the lobes do still rub some when the hubs are locked.

If I had it to do over again on an ADD equipped 4Runner with what I've learned I would
A) reboot the oe axles using Toyota boot kits
B) stretch the new ones (search cv boot stretch)

Rebooting is messy but easy enough. If you can change an axle you can reboot. Here's a good write-up. He used Napa boots, but you get the point. I believe Toyota boots don't require all the tools he needed. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...-cv-axles.html
And my note from that thread regarding the Toyota boot kit and tool...

MaK92-4RnR

Jeff,

First off, what brand of lift did you actually put on the truck?

You're correct that a differential drop is certainly needed to prolong the life of your CV joints, but this is only a "bandaid" per-say. It works for a little, but the increased angle in the joints will self-destruct the boots.

To be honest, the only remedy for this issue is to do a manual hub conversion. I've done this on a 98 Tacoma and it's a pretty straight forward installation. You'll need the spindles, and hub assembly off a manual hub equipped truck and the CV joints (GREEN SHAFT) from a manual hub equipped Tacoma.

The manual hubs will lock your CV joints in place until you unlock them for 4wd use.

I hope this helps,

Thanks,

- M

MistaMota

thanks guys for the info.

to lift my runner (grimace... cause he is purple) i used spacers and the bilstein kit from toytec.

the cv axels that i have used are from Napa, and they have been great other then the rubber wearing away.

I really don't want to go for manual hubs... is there anyway that i can drop the diff lower??

Malcolm99

Perhaps your adjustable lower spring perch on your Bilsteins is set to high, When I received mine from Sonoran they where preassembled with TRD Tundra Shocks arcing outward, the 1/2 spacer was built in, and if memory serves me correct the snap ring on the lower spring perch was on the 2nd notch, I raised to the third notch and installed a plow, and put a few large washers under the Diff drop kit to help off set the angle. But like I said in the 2nd post you need OEM boots, not necessary to install manual locking hubs IMO, as there is many many ADD 4R's running this lift with no issues except old boots and aftermarket boots..

MistaMota

Hello Malcom

both the the lift and right side springs look proper under load (with the 4runner on the ground) and not under load (on the hoist)...
So all i need to do is get stock axel books and put them on the non stock axel??? is that possible?

Malcolm99

I was just saying perhaps you may have the adjustable Bilsteins set to high especially adding a spacer, eyeballing it won't tell you much. Yes OEM boots will work on aftermarket axles, although OEM axles are also made of better quality materials if you plan on wheeling.
Malcolm.