Lift install: Step by step Instructions

AznSky · 10-15-2003, 12:11 PM

Ok I plan on installing my new OME springs and shocks next wednesday in my 96 4Runner, and being my first time doing this, I've gathered a bunch of information by using the SEARCH button

and wrote a list of what I need to do. Hopefully you guys can answer some of my last minute questions and maybe see if I'm doing things correctly (or if there's an easier way). Btw, this will be done here at my work, where I have access to a good amount of tools (ie. hoist, wall mounted spring compressor, air tools) and a professional technician next to me

Rear:

1) Put vehicle on jack stands or hoist
2) Remove wheel / tire
3) Disconnect rear swaybar links
4) Disconnect bottom bolt of rear shocks
5) Push down one side of axle, so the coil and conical bumpstop should be easily removed (Do you just pull it out? Or does it just fall out? Do you take both coils from both sides out at the same time, or one at a time??)
6) Put new coils in along with conical bumpstop, longer side on Driver side (Does it just pop right in and sit in place?
7) Using a couple pairs of hands or a strap wrench, hold the top bolt of the shock with a socket, and twist the shock off.
8) Remove other shock
9) Put in new shocks (should I use new bolts? What type of anti-seize should I use? and do you just coat the bolt with it?) bolt in top first, then bottom just by pushing shock upwards?
10) torque everything to oem spec and reinstall swaybar links / wheels / tires

DONE

Front:

1) Put vehicle on hoist / jack stands
2) Remove wheels / tires
3) Unbolt top 3 bolts of shock assembly
4) Unbolt bottom bolt
5) Pull assembly out
6) Compress spring on spring compressor
7) Remove center bolt by using open end wrench and crescent wrench
8) Pull shock out and coils apart
9) Re-using top part of shock assembly (dunno what it's called, and which exact parts am I re-using?)
10) Put trim packer on lower part of shock
11) Then bottom face plate (with bowl facing upward) on top of metal trim packer
12) Then put coil on faceplate

13) Then re-use top part and put nut on shock bolt?
14) Compress and re-install top middle nut
15) Put assembly back in
16) Use jack to push down top a-arm
17) Screw in top 3 bolts
18) Screw in lower bolt
19) Reinstall wheel/tire

DONE.

So am I missing anything important? Also which nuts and bolts should I replace? Or anything else I should need to replace? And would I need to disconnect the front swaybar?

Sorry for asking so much about this topic, I've probably repeated TONS of my questions, but this is the last thing I plan on doin with my truck so hopefully you guys can bear with me.

Oh yeah the diff drop kit:

1) disconnect skid plates
2) Disconnect bolts to diff
3) Dunno where the spacers go (Yes I looked at the pic on Schaeffer's site)
4) ???
5) bla bla bla ok i'm done

THANK YOU

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TDiddy · 10-15-2003, 12:24 PM

You have a technician working with you? Your prayers have been answered.

J/K, but it will definitely be easier with extra hands and eyes.

I would add to #3, disconnect e-brake cable.

You should also have another jack handy to support the rear at the diff. With that in mind, disconnect the rear sway bar before you put it up on the lift.

I think we disconnected the sway bar for the front too.

I'd probably wait on the trim packers until you're sure you will need them. This could mean re-doing the front, but that's the way it goes. Remember, these things aren't meant to correct for front to back tilt, but rather for left to right tilt in the front end. As an example, I only have those packers on the DS, none on the PS.

AznSky · 10-15-2003, 12:37 PM

What exactly do you mean disconnect cable? Like disconnect the bracket? Or the actual cable? Also I forgot to add these in, am I do I HAVE to make a new e-brake bracket asap? and do I HAVE to have the panhard asap?

Ok so I guess I'll probably hold on the trim packers, but wouldn't it just help putting those in, in case the fronts do sag? Well is there a bad side to putting those in?

Gracias for all your time and help Tom, I know I'm a pain :pig:

TDiddy · 10-15-2003, 12:50 PM

Just disconnect the brackets so that the cable has slack in it. I think there are 3 brackets across the length of the axle.

You don't HAVE to have either of them, but I do have both. The panhard bracket debate has been beaten to death, however I think Keisur's before and after pics make a pretty convincing case for one.

If you have a machine shop at work, they could probably whip out an e-brake bracket in minutes.

The benefit to waiting on the trim packers is that you'll get an accurate measurement from stock. There's no bad side to put them on, but you really won't know if or where you'll need them unless you first looked at it without them.

Naah, you're not a pain.....

INsr5runner · 10-15-2003, 01:04 PM

are we using a wall mounted compressor or what? I hope your camera is ready.

INsr5runner · 10-15-2003, 01:06 PM

I don't have an e brake bracket or panhard drop. Mine is the exact same lift as the one we will install don't forget.

AznSky · 10-15-2003, 01:10 PM

hey Mike you know I'm gonna try to install this stuff on Wednesday with a guy here right? Just makin sure if you noticed that part. And if so, you should come up anyways and chill, if not then I'll see you in Halloween with my LIFTED truck

loosehead · 10-15-2003, 01:33 PM

I think you got it pretty much figured out. Tom is correct about disconnecting the rear swaybar before you jack up the back end. It is also easier the disconnect the rear bottom shock mount then too, before you raise it.

On the rear coils, its just a matter of getting enough stuff disconnected so you can pivot the axle back and forth to get the coils out, without damaging the rubber break line. Having that extra set of hands to help you push and tug on the axle will help alot...

BTW, happy b-day! Ahhh, to be 19 again...LOL!

TDiddy · 10-15-2003, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by loosehead
BTW, happy b-day! Ahhh, to be 19 again...LOL!

Yes, happy b-day Rob, just noticed that myself!

Just think, only 2 more years to go, and you will be allowed to drink alcohol...

ravencr · 10-15-2003, 04:41 PM

Hey man,

I'm sorry I didn't get my install procedure written out for you. I just haven't had any time. If you need any help during the install, just drop me a line as I mentioned before.

Chris

AznSky · 10-15-2003, 05:10 PM

Hey thanks guys! And don't worry about it Chris, I actually derived this list from your "Ready for my lift" thread lol. But I'll definitly give you a call if I run into some trouble.

Actually here's a pic from this afternoon when my neighbors downstairs surprised me with a cake!

ravencr · 10-15-2003, 05:12 PM

cool man. I'm glad I could be some help!

Chris

10-15-2003, 12:37 PM	#3 (permalink)
AznSky Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 2,796	What exactly do you mean disconnect cable? Like disconnect the bracket? Or the actual cable? Also I forgot to add these in, am I do I HAVE to make a new e-brake bracket asap? and do I HAVE to have the panhard asap? Ok so I guess I'll probably hold on the trim packers, but wouldn't it just help putting those in, in case the fronts do sag? Well is there a bad side to putting those in? Gracias for all your time and help Tom, I know I'm a pain :pig: __________________ Rob

10-15-2003, 01:04 PM	#5 (permalink)
INsr5runner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,151	are we using a wall mounted compressor or what? I hope your camera is ready. __________________ CLIMB MORE ROCKS! SUPPORT YOUR TROOPS! Carmel Cycling

10-15-2003, 01:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
INsr5runner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,151	I don't have an e brake bracket or panhard drop. Mine is the exact same lift as the one we will install don't forget. __________________ CLIMB MORE ROCKS! SUPPORT YOUR TROOPS! Carmel Cycling

10-15-2003, 01:10 PM	#7 (permalink)
AznSky Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 2,796	hey Mike you know I'm gonna try to install this stuff on Wednesday with a guy here right? Just makin sure if you noticed that part. And if so, you should come up anyways and chill, if not then I'll see you in Halloween with my LIFTED truck __________________ Rob

10-15-2003, 01:33 PM	#8 (permalink)
loosehead Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Los Alamos, NM Posts: 1,107	I think you got it pretty much figured out. Tom is correct about disconnecting the rear swaybar before you jack up the back end. It is also easier the disconnect the rear bottom shock mount then too, before you raise it. On the rear coils, its just a matter of getting enough stuff disconnected so you can pivot the axle back and forth to get the coils out, without damaging the rubber break line. Having that extra set of hands to help you push and tug on the axle will help alot... BTW, happy b-day! Ahhh, to be 19 again...LOL! __________________ Jayson 1998 4Runner SR5 4WD V-6, auto, E-locker

10-15-2003, 12:24 PM	#2 (permalink)
TDiddy Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Urbandale, IA Posts: 7,113	You have a technician working with you? Your prayers have been answered. J/K, but it will definitely be easier with extra hands and eyes. I would add to #3, disconnect e-brake cable. You should also have another jack handy to support the rear at the diff. With that in mind, disconnect the rear sway bar before you put it up on the lift. I think we disconnected the sway bar for the front too. I'd probably wait on the trim packers until you're sure you will need them. This could mean re-doing the front, but that's the way it goes. Remember, these things aren't meant to correct for front to back tilt, but rather for left to right tilt in the front end. As an example, I only have those packers on the DS, none on the PS.

10-15-2003, 12:50 PM	#4 (permalink)
TDiddy Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Urbandale, IA Posts: 7,113	Just disconnect the brackets so that the cable has slack in it. I think there are 3 brackets across the length of the axle. You don't HAVE to have either of them, but I do have both. The panhard bracket debate has been beaten to death, however I think Keisur's before and after pics make a pretty convincing case for one. If you have a machine shop at work, they could probably whip out an e-brake bracket in minutes. The benefit to waiting on the trim packers is that you'll get an accurate measurement from stock. There's no bad side to put them on, but you really won't know if or where you'll need them unless you first looked at it without them. Naah, you're not a pain.....

10-15-2003, 04:41 PM	#10 (permalink)
ravencr Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Severance, CO Posts: 4,728	Hey man, I'm sorry I didn't get my install procedure written out for you. I just haven't had any time. If you need any help during the install, just drop me a line as I mentioned before. Chris __________________ http://www.utvrally.com http://www.utvevents.com http://www.cartwheelin.com

10-15-2003, 05:10 PM	#11 (permalink)
AznSky Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 2,796	Hey thanks guys! And don't worry about it Chris, I actually derived this list from your "Ready for my lift" thread lol. But I'll definitly give you a call if I run into some trouble. Actually here's a pic from this afternoon when my neighbors downstairs surprised me with a cake! __________________ Rob Last edited by Toyo_Runner96; 10-15-2003 at 05:17 PM.

10-15-2003, 05:12 PM	#12 (permalink)
ravencr Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Severance, CO Posts: 4,728	cool man. I'm glad I could be some help! Chris __________________ http://www.utvrally.com http://www.utvevents.com http://www.cartwheelin.com

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