ravencr

I'm going to install the Lars swaybar disconnects tomorrow, and I tried to budge the bolts today, and they are really on there. Is there a trick or best way to remove the lower bolt that connects to the frame? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is on a 1997 4runner by the way.

Chris

Mad Chemist

Not to state the obvious, but hit it with PB Blaster tonight, and let it soak overnight, and it may loosen right up.

ravencr

I've done that, but I noticed the bolt itself has a spot for an allen key in the center of it. This kind of tells me that I got to hold the bolt in place while cranking down on the nut. The other end of the bolt, where the link is, has notches on it and can easily be stripped. Not that know from experience or anything!! Does this sound right?

Chris

H-man

i just put mine on last night! i just used an air ratchet on the top (this was a huge advantage)bolts and a metric allen and box end wrench combination on the bottom bolt but on mine you had to use the allen to prevent the bolt from turning
let me know if you need the sizes?
good luck!
kerry

ravencr

Ok, here's the details on the Lars Swaybar disconnect install. Last night I made sure to fully soak the two bottom bolts in PB Blaster for easy removal today. Yeah right! The way the bolt and nut is designed is the bolt has a allen head in the end of it. So, you have to use an open end wrench and allen key to remove the bolt. All was going well until the stupid allen key hole stripped out. So, the only other alternative was to drillit out, which was not fun, but it did work. I had to do this on both sides, unfortunately. I wanted to reuse them in the rear, but now I'm going to have to buy them from Toyota. I did notice that once they were removed, the flat flange on the opposite side of the frame had flat sides. I guess before trying to drill it out, I would try to get a large pair of vice grips on that side, which is attached to the bolt to hold it in place as you remove the nut.

After removing both stock links, the Lars install was very simple. First you have to drill out the hole on the frame using a 1/2" drill bit. Once that's done, I adjusted the height of the links, an installed them. The directions are very simple and easy to understand, and you don't really need them anyway. Here's some pictures of the finished product:





The pictures aren't great because of the lighting, but they fit perfectly.

I do have a question for everyone though. When I disconnect them for off-roading, do I remove just the bottom pin and let the disconnects dangle, or do I also unscrew the butterfly nut at the top and remove the whole disco?

Stay tuned for more!

Chris

H-man

I believe you remove the whole thing, at least that is my understanding. however i have not tried them off road yet! i hope too this weekend!

ravencr

Let us know on this thread what you find out!

Chris

AznSky

Yes you remove the whole thing. As for off-roading, I think they helped me a bit, I wasn't too sure. But I bet if I had the swaybar connected that it would have been a lot stiffer and a lot harder to get through some of the places.

ravencr

The difference isn't easily felt or noticed when disconnecting the stock swaybar, but the difference is pretty substantial when disconnecting the addco swaybar. I can't wait to try them out. I'm getting m cornfed spacers in Monday, and they'll go on Wednesday, along with hopefully the panhard drop bracket.

Chris

AznSky

Actually many people say that when going over dips or bumps, with the swabar disconnected, it is less stiff, and the tires feel like they're taking the hits instead of the shocks.

ravencr

Maximum articulation = Front Swaybars disconnected! Period! As far as the ride quality, it's going to lean more in turns, and it's going to feel softer too.

Chris

TStango

When disconnected the ride is so much better offroad. Even if it is just while going down fire roads with bumps and ruts, the front suspension absorbs the shock so much better. Careful on those turns though!

You might want to paint your disconnects. Mine got rusty very quickly so I wire brushed them and treated them with a industrial rust sealer/primer and then a light coat of black spay paint. Then I put some anti-seaze goop on the top threads. They now come off easily every time with no tools. No more rust too!

ravencr

Good idea! I'll do it!

Chris

H-man

thanks lugnuts97 for the paint tip! good call! ill do that as well !

TStango

no problem

H-man

well guys i measured the difference in articulation on my 3rd gen this weekend with the lars disco's connected and disconected as near as i can (tell due to some uneaven tire wear) it bought me somewhere between 1.5 and 2" of additional articulation ill let you know when i have a chance to give it a good practical test like on spring creek trail, maybe in a couple of weeks
later
kerry

ravencr

I agree with you! I tested them out well yesterday out on the trails, and it makes a huge difference in the off-road ride and articulation. They are real easy to take on and off, but I found I have to tilt up on the addco swaybar, do the driver's side first, and then do the passenger side.

I'm going to paint mine probably tonight with just rustoleum.

Chris

H-man

chris, what kind of grease did you use on the heim ball ? i used some pretty thick wheel bearing grease but i though i might clean that off and try some white lithium grease instead. any thoughts?

ravencr

I didn't know I was supposed to grease it up!

Chris

H-man

according to the directions i recieved from lars at the bottom of the page it mentions applying some grease to the heim ball joint but it does not specify what kind of grease i was trying to use something that would be less prone to washing off! so i chose wheel bearing grease but i think it may be a little thick!
kerry