Toyoda22

Process took me about 4 hours by myself with a break in the middle to go borrow a deep 22mm socket and breaker bar. The bolts were TIGHT!!!. Took no time at all to get the bolts out once the initial break free. Definitely hit them with penetrate a couple days before(i did). biggest PITA was getting the old bushings out of the rack. I found it easiest to wedge a screw driver up through the slot and bend the bushings to allow me to stick a WD-40 tube in there and soak them. after that it was a lot of twisting and turning with a long screw driver up through the metal sleeve until the whole thing popped out. The longer drivers side bushing needed some extra persuasion with an aggressively toothed pair of pliers. The bushings were from Energy Suspensions and everything was perfect. took some time and alot of energy to get the bolts through the sleeves and the rack back in place, requiring me to use my feet and head to push the tires outward while trying to slide the bolt through.(very very awkward)... The results were pretty great, turning is so much quicker and responsive that my first ride felt almost tippy when taking turns. the new bushings actually took away a constant drift to the left that i've had since i bought the truck a year ago. everything went pretty smoothly and it was worth the time and 1 busted knuckle. highly recommended

TheDurk

Just did mine today, too. Wheelers package had been sitting in kitchen all winter waiting for a warm day. It took me about the same amount of time, but I was going slowly and wasted a lot of time looking for tools. I did not have much trouble breaking the bolts free; I had been PB blasting every few days for two weeks. Then I used my truck ramps to give me a lot of room to use my big breaker and cheater. (I had to use the ramps again at the end to get the spec 141 ft-lbs. on the long bolt.)

A C-clamp and the extra bushing from the Wheelers kit got the old bushings out without too much trouble after I failed at banging and prying. I also used the C-clamp to get the new metal bushing tubes into the new urethane.

Getting the rack back in was a pain--in the end following directions worked. I was able to get the center bolt to thread up after I got the others good and tight. I had to use my trusty C-clamp to get the bolt through the bushing, then I got it threaded by pushing down on the bolt with my fingers while turning with a box wrench. Awkward, and it took a few tries--but it worked.

Steering is way tighter than before. I know exactly what you mean about tippy. I'll see what happens on the highway tomorrow. New Trekmasters are next; then tires. By summer this old beast will ride better than new. I did sway bar bushings and end links last fall.

icerunner

Have you had good luck with the Wheeler Bushing Kit? are the poly bushings much louder?...My rig has 180K miles on it and I have never changed the rack bushings and my best guess is that its about time..

SchooBaka

I've got a set from wheelers waiting to go on my rig.
For those having trouble getting the bushings out, a ball joint press works well.

Cbohl51

Thanks for the posts.

Going to be attempting these this weekend as they have been collecting dust for almost 10 months now.

BIC performance

I just installed my poly bushings last weekend, and the results are great. I went with the Total Chaos kit, as my local shop had them in stock. One thing is I had to make a smaller sleeve for the left front bushing, as the one in the kit was made for a larger bolt size.

Install note, do not take apart the steering shaft, it is difficult to align right afterwards. Simple tap in the large bolt as far as it goes, because with a diff drop you cant remove the bolt totaly.

mtnbker1213

Hey, just curious as to how difficult it is to swap out the steering rack bushings. I think mine are about due. I'm experiencing slight sway when I hit an uneven surface on the freeway. Almost like the truck wants to go its own way. I can feel it in the steering.

Does anyone have any instructions or PDFs you can hand my way? I'm not the most mechanically inclined guy but after some research and following instructions I was able to swap out my belts and water pump. Thanks for the help.

2000, Taco, 3.4L, all stock except front ARB bumper.

eddieleephd

Just be sure to torque those bolts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And Double Check!!!!!!!!!!!!

Toyoda22

c clamps would have been a big help. damn

BajaRunner

3rd time doing them right now, and im pissed out of my mind. Everytime I do it I can't get the bushings out.

I got a c-clamp, I don't see how on earth it would work getting them out. You need to the drivers side TOWARDS the crossmember?? There is a attached washer that wont allow you to go anywhere with the C-clamp.

Hokkaido

Sweet! I was just going to post about this. I am in Japan and it's damn sure time for me to get this done. I'm getting serious vibes at 50mph and after trying to just tighten things up I found that the long bolt is bent.

I went to toyota to get bushings...but they only sell the whole R&P assembly for like $400.

Would any of you know the specific part numbers for what's needed?? It would be a ton of help..
Thanks in advance

3w41d

when i did them on my 2000, i used a torch and burnt them out and kept yanking on them with pliers. i'm gonna do it on the 97 soon so we'll see how that goes. i also found that using a ratchet strap to pull it back together worked very well

http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/4runnerrackbushkit.htm

Hokkaido

http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/4runnerrackbushkit.htm

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Thanks! I guess I'll have to order that. But I bet if a guy knew the PNs he could get them from the stealer.

denverunner

Just did mine on sunday. I cut the outer rubber "mushroom" off and hit em with a deep socket to get them out. Probably not the most efficient method, but hey, It worked for me...