Just did a compression test, what is the 5VZ 3.4 supposed to get?
07-24-2007, 09:21 PM
#1
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Just did a compression test, what is the 5VZ 3.4 supposed to get?
Ok, I did search for this!
I just did a compression test and I was wanting to know what it should be/how my engine is doing.
Here is how I did the test:
I first let is warm up by idealing and then I had to make a trip to the store so I did that. So when I got back it was nice and hot. I then pulled all the plugs (they looked good but they are running a little hot as the MSD makes them?) and undid the ignition so that I would not have any problems with the test.
Now with all the plugs out and the engine still hot I hooked up the tester and cranked her over about 5 times to get a good reading. I then wrote it down and did it again. Wrote it down moved to the next cylinder ect?
All the pressures came up to 180 +/- 5psi.
What is the pressure supposed to be on the 5vz-fe 3.4?
I just did a compression test and I was wanting to know what it should be/how my engine is doing.
Here is how I did the test:
I first let is warm up by idealing and then I had to make a trip to the store so I did that. So when I got back it was nice and hot. I then pulled all the plugs (they looked good but they are running a little hot as the MSD makes them?) and undid the ignition so that I would not have any problems with the test.
Now with all the plugs out and the engine still hot I hooked up the tester and cranked her over about 5 times to get a good reading. I then wrote it down and did it again. Wrote it down moved to the next cylinder ect?
All the pressures came up to 180 +/- 5psi.
What is the pressure supposed to be on the 5vz-fe 3.4?
Last edited by Texas_Ace; 07-28-2007 at 07:58 PM.
07-24-2007, 09:32 PM
#3
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Yeah i liked the fact that they seem to be within the spec as far as 1 not being a lot lower than the others. I plan on Supercharging it soon though so i want to make sure everything is in tip top shape.
I just can't find what the specs for this engine are anywhere!
I just can't find what the specs for this engine are anywhere!
07-24-2007, 11:16 PM
#5
Registered User
Consistancy is good. The variations from one compression gauge to another would make more difference... if your gauge isn't a pro quality gauge, or if it's been dropped, it may no longer be accurate. But the repeatability is still good.
I can't remember what the lower limit is for warranty purposes. It's something riddiculous like 125psi. If one of the cylinders showed that, your engine would definately be hurting. Like short-rodded by water ingestion kind of hurting.
07-25-2007, 10:30 AM
#7
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The important thing is the +/- 5psi. 175-185psi compression is good.
Consistancy is good. The variations from one compression gauge to another would make more difference... if your gauge isn't a pro quality gauge, or if it's been dropped, it may no longer be accurate. But the repeatability is still good.
I can't remember what the lower limit is for warranty purposes. It's something riddiculous like 125psi. If one of the cylinders showed that, your engine would definately be hurting. Like short-rodded by water ingestion kind of hurting.
Consistancy is good. The variations from one compression gauge to another would make more difference... if your gauge isn't a pro quality gauge, or if it's been dropped, it may no longer be accurate. But the repeatability is still good.
I can't remember what the lower limit is for warranty purposes. It's something riddiculous like 125psi. If one of the cylinders showed that, your engine would definately be hurting. Like short-rodded by water ingestion kind of hurting.
It has 125k on it and i just got it a few months ago so i am very curious to see how she was taken care of.
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07-25-2007, 11:11 AM
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You didn't list it, but did you pull the Fuel pump fuse?
The wet fuel in the cylinder could increase the reading... much like using oil in a "wet" compression test...
The wet fuel in the cylinder could increase the reading... much like using oil in a "wet" compression test...
07-25-2007, 12:42 PM
#9
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I could not figure out which fuse went to the pump so i just did it with it running but all the pressures came up the same so i don't think it did much to it if anything.
07-26-2007, 09:11 AM
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The important thing is the +/- 5psi. 175-185psi compression is good.
Consistancy is good. The variations from one compression gauge to another would make more difference... if your gauge isn't a pro quality gauge, or if it's been dropped, it may no longer be accurate. But the repeatability is still good.
I can't remember what the lower limit is for warranty purposes. It's something riddiculous like 125psi. If one of the cylinders showed that, your engine would definately be hurting. Like short-rodded by water ingestion kind of hurting.
Consistancy is good. The variations from one compression gauge to another would make more difference... if your gauge isn't a pro quality gauge, or if it's been dropped, it may no longer be accurate. But the repeatability is still good.
I can't remember what the lower limit is for warranty purposes. It's something riddiculous like 125psi. If one of the cylinders showed that, your engine would definately be hurting. Like short-rodded by water ingestion kind of hurting.
with 50% leakdown
Through crankcase breather Bye bye rings...
07-26-2007, 10:16 AM
#12
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Ouch that is bad, so is it supposed to be 200 on each cyl.?
I just want to find what the compression is supposed to be from the factory. I have no idea how wel this was taken care of so i am wanting to see if i can get an idea.
I just want to find what the compression is supposed to be from the factory. I have no idea how wel this was taken care of so i am wanting to see if i can get an idea.
07-26-2007, 10:22 AM
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07-26-2007, 10:31 AM
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Yea mine is at 125k mi but my s/c lost its bearings and i think that is why 1 cyl is now 140
I have the factory service Manuel infront of me here for my tacoma
I have the factory service Manuel infront of me here for my tacoma
07-26-2007, 10:41 AM
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07-29-2007, 07:26 AM
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Per the Toyota FSM 2001
With fully open throttle, and a full charged battery to obtain at least 250 RPM on a warm engine.
5VZ-FE
174psi or higher
145psi Minimun
Difference between cylinders 15psi
Bonus info
2/3RZ-FE
178psi
127psi
14psi
With fully open throttle, and a full charged battery to obtain at least 250 RPM on a warm engine.
5VZ-FE
174psi or higher
145psi Minimun
Difference between cylinders 15psi
Bonus info
2/3RZ-FE
178psi
127psi
14psi
07-29-2007, 10:20 AM
#19
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Great, so i guess that means it is in pretty good shape for 125k.
I have got to get a FSM...
07-29-2007, 07:00 PM
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They are handy documents for specs, but kinda pricey. I've used mine enough to feel I'm close to getting my moneies worth, but you can download a digital copy much cheaper. I do find the paper version a lot easier for quick reference around the garage.
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