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Issue post tundra brake upgrade

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Old 07-18-2012, 11:09 AM
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Issue post tundra brake upgrade

Hey guys, so last week I completed te tundra brake upgrade. Had a little hard time getting all the air out of the system turned out I had to find a dirt road and lock up the wheels get the ABS to engage and then took it back in and bled the system and it was perfect. Loving the stopping power.

My new dilemma is now a few days after I am feeling a shudder after I go from stopped to just before my foot comes off the brake before I accelerate. I have no idea what's causing it seems like te pads are having trouble coming off the rotors. But not sure.
Help would be greatly appreciated.
Old 07-18-2012, 11:20 AM
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Since I'm the queen of stupid questions.... are your lug nuts tight and evenly torqued down? Assuming yes as you did the upgrade but still....
Old 07-18-2012, 12:08 PM
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I am pretty sure but I am replacing the struts and shocks absorbers tonight so the wheels are coming off and I'll do it again.
Old 07-18-2012, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by habanero
Since I'm the queen of stupid questions.... are your lug nuts tight and evenly torqued down? Assuming yes as you did the upgrade but still....
Queen?



....AnyWho. Check the tie rods, ball jts. You may need to have the rotors turned on a lathe. Sometime they can be warped from the manufacturer.

Last edited by DRCOFFEE; 07-18-2012 at 04:18 PM.
Old 07-18-2012, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DRCOFFEE
Queen?

Well I'm certainly no princess!

Double check your pins and anti-rattle, that sort of thing while you're messing around down there, make sure they're all as copacetic as you'd left them.

Last edited by habanero; 07-18-2012 at 04:49 PM.
Old 07-19-2012, 09:40 AM
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The very Same thing happens to mine. I even upgraded my stock brakes to the tundras in hopes that it was just a sticky stock caliper. Even witth the tundra upgrade, however, it still sticks when i let off the breaks. I have greased and regreased the pins many times with no change. I dont know if this has anything to do with it, but since i got new rotors the crosshatching on the passenger side rotor is less visible then on the driver side. So its almost like the passenger Side caliper is squeezing harder.
Old 07-19-2012, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DRCOFFEE
Queen?



....AnyWho. Check the tie rods, ball jts. You may need to have the rotors turned on a lathe. Sometime they can be warped from the manufacturer.
Its possible , but not likely. Also for me its just the initial engagement of the brakes and when the brake pedal is released. There's not shudder the whole time while applying pressure.
Old 07-19-2012, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by madbomber08
Its possible , but not likely. Also for me its just the initial engagement of the brakes and when the brake pedal is released. There's not shudder the whole time while applying pressure.
I am the same way it's smooth when I let on te brakes just initial and right at the release point.
Old 07-19-2012, 05:54 PM
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And the slides are greased....


Your rear axle seal(s) aren't leaking, are they? Brake fluid could cause the shoes to stick a little, most noticeable when you let off the parking brake.


Assuming 3rd gen 4Runner, Tundra upgrade done either because of warped rotors or simply for better stoppage but no real problem with original set-up or with the new set-up for at least several days. Right? No pulling when braking or anything other than described?

Last edited by habanero; 07-19-2012 at 05:59 PM.
Old 07-19-2012, 06:03 PM
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Rear seals are brand new and bearings and axles so it's not the rears.
Old 07-19-2012, 06:09 PM
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Brand new when? I know I'm reaching a little but if the shop doesn't get the bearings in the right place (assuming they pressed bearings) they can't seal and will leak.
Not saying it's your problem, just that it's another place to inspect.

Last edited by habanero; 07-19-2012 at 06:12 PM.
Old 07-19-2012, 06:34 PM
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There is no leak have no fluid at all on the inside of the tire or around the drum te vibration is deffinately coming from the front.
Old 07-19-2012, 06:36 PM
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Okay. it was straws.
Old 07-21-2012, 05:11 PM
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If I look closely at my front driver wheel when i let off the brakes, I can see the wheel jerk ever so slightly. It seems like the pads are sticking and then releasing a split second later.

Yellow, did you find anything else out on this? Thanks habanero for things to check. Also, has anyone else had this issue? I feel better seeing someone else posting about this.
Old 07-21-2012, 06:35 PM
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Did you apply any 'anti-squeal' to the backs of all 4 pads? I found that once I did that, any shudder/squeal ceased. It's the grease they sell in a small squeeze packet at the register. This grease essentially helps the pad 'stick' to the caliper pistons so they release from the rotor.

If not that, caliper could use a rebuild? Maybe it wasn't done right on the reman?

Last edited by Nuthuts96; 07-21-2012 at 06:36 PM.
Old 07-21-2012, 07:05 PM
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I had that same problem with brand new rear shoes, i did the bearings , seals and everything. I bought the best shoes and they wore funny, when I took it apart I re sanded them and same thing happened. Replaced shoes with second set of new ones and it worked amazing.
Old 07-21-2012, 09:41 PM
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Are the calipers new? If they are used the sqaure cut seals could be old and hard causing pistons to stick...or...internal valving inside brake line...
Old 07-24-2012, 08:23 AM
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Mine were junkyard calipers. And yes i did put grease in between the shims and pads, but not in between the shims and caliper pistons. Has anyone done a caliper rebuild?
Old 07-24-2012, 09:00 AM
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Ive done probably thousands in my years of auto repair. Try to buy the rebuild kits and let me know and i will walk you through it. Not difficult.But...i would pull pistons out to see if they are corroded or pitted prior to rebuild. If they are...just replace calipers. Or buy new pistons if you can find replacements.
Old 07-29-2012, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by djfell80
Ive done probably thousands in my years of auto repair. Try to buy the rebuild kits and let me know and i will walk you through it. Not difficult.But...i would pull pistons out to see if they are corroded or pitted prior to rebuild. If they are...just replace calipers. Or buy new pistons if you can find replacements.
Thats what i was going to do before i put the calipers on. I stopped myself though because i knew i'd ruin the piston boots if I popped the pistons out. I just don't know where to get cheap rebuild kits. I'm pretty sure toyota charges an arm and a leg for them. As far as oreillys or advanced auto, I don't think they carry rebuild kits. I'm at a loss.

If I had to do it over I'd just get rebuilt calipers from napa or something.


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