Adam F

I went out today and bought all the parts for the standard 3.0 ISR mod. Pipe couplers, barbed fittings, and the 14" stainless steel flex muffler pipe from Napa. When I went to install it, I ran into some major problems. 2 major problems to be exact.

First, the brake master cylinder is right in the way of the new intake tube. The factory piece that came off bends down then over.

Secondly, the position of the air box connector and the intake manifold connector are at too much of an angle for the thick HD muffler tubing that I have. It just won't bend at this angle.

Here's a pic for reference.




I guess the 2nd gen engine compartment is a few inches longer than the 1st gen. Also, the resonator boxes are a little different than whats on a 2nd gen. Here's what I pulled off mine:






I diddn't see the little separate square box on the 2nd gen version.

I really want to do something about the stock intake. I was thinking I had 2 choices. Go to the muffler shop and have them bend me up a pipe that would snake around the brake master cylinder. It would have to be a regular bend, as I don't know of any shops around here that have a mandrel bender. It would end up being a U shaped sort of pipe.

Second idea I got from looking at the stock pipes. The stock pipe has a Y in it that goes to the air box and to the resonators. Here it is.




Now, I was thinking maybe somehow plug the hole that normally went to the other silencer boxes which would basically make it a straight through pipe.

What do you think?


Anyone want to buy a 14" piece of heavy duty stainless steel flex tubing for $15?

Dublin

Adam F, You should be able to bend that pipe to at least a 40 degree angle take a look at ctcost's post and pics. As for the proximity of the master cylinder you could probably put an indent in the tude at that area to clear it. I dont think that would affect the air flow much. I had a piece of exhaust pipe bent for mine and you can see it comes pretty close on the second gens too. To bend the pipe a bit easier and this may sound stupid but it works. Freeze 2 cans of 16 oz soda (pop) and slip them on both ends of the pipe and bend or pull toward you, it does work.



Clearance on a 2nd gen

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Adam F

I did read ctcost's post. That's where I got the parts list from.

If you look at his setup, you can see that his pipe doesnt bend much either. There is no way to bend it more than you see or else it will deform.

Denting the tube is not an option. The master cylinder is MUCH closer on a 1st gen. See for yourself. I can barely fit my hand inbetween the master cylinder and the end of the coupler connected to the airbox.




The 2nd gen setup is ALOT different.

Dublin

Yikes that is tight. Maybe your best immediate solution is the factory plumbing minus the chambers, you might be able to use a plumbing pvc cap to plug that Y.

Adam F

Thats what I was thinking. Thanks!

Adam F

What's the best way to couple the 2 large tubes on the left? The one coming from the top of the air box? I was thinking a small peice of larger ID tubing and 2 hose clamps?

Dublin

If it were mine I'd probably start with taking all the factory parts apart and first attaching the factory piece at the air cleaner side. That's where your closest tolerences are, you might even be able to use a coupler and a section of the remaining factory pieces at the other side. Post some pics when you've got it i'm sure other 1 gen owners would like to do this mod too.

ctcost

Wow that is tight! hmmmm...yeah it looks like the stock one may be the way to go. Sorry I missed this one Adam. Probably all done be now. Since you got as far as findong the couplings of you bought from Home Depot you'll notice they have 45 degree ones and 90 degree ones also....dunno if that might help but maybe. Good luck!

ctcost

Also there are caps and plugs that should fit the original. Hope it helps man!

Adam F

Actually it got dark out, so I gave up on it. I have a different daily driver so I can take my time with this.

I bought the coupling from a local hardware store. I will stop by HD and see what they have that might work. If all else fails, I will buy some sort of pipe cap and make the stock part work.

I'll let you guys know what I end up doing. Probably won't be untill Saturday or Sunday since it's raining today and tomorrow.

Adam F

I got the mod completed. What I did was get a 2" PVC pipe cap, put some glue around the inside of the cap, and slipped it over the hole that used to go to the silencer boxes. I then taped the 2 big hoses together with some electrical tape, plugged up the smaller hose coming from the intake manifold by slipping it over the screw on the hose clamp on the air box, and plugging the medium sized hose back into it's original location. Also, there will be 2 open holes on the wheel well, as you can see in the pictre. But all you have to do is put the screws that held the silencer boxes back in place and that should plug the holes just fine. Here's a pic




I shall call my new mod........................the "ISB" mod. Intake Silencer Bypass.

Total cost for this mod? $.95. Yes, 95 cents. That was for the 2" pipe cap at Lowe's. I had some glue and electrical tape laying around the garage.

But, unfortunately, I did not notice any gains with this mod, not yet at least. There is only a slightly different intake note, which is not really noticeable inside the truck. I did not notice any performance gains though. I only drove it a mile or 2 though, and I had not driven it in 2 weeks prior to today. I'll have to drive it more to notice any gains. Maybe, just maybe, there was a slight gain at the extreme end of the RPM range, at like 4K and above. I'll report back later when I get some more street time.

ctcost

WEll at least you found a way to fit it in Adam. Lotsa difference in the space on that side of the motor looks like between 1st and second gen, sheesh. Glad you got it back together ok!