mikelj

I just bought a Viper 791VX to put on my 98 4Runner. I just have a few questions that I can't seem to find any answers to either on the internet in general or already posted on here.

I know I have that crap alarm that comes with the 4runner. I accidentally pushed the button next to the the steering wheel installing a sound system and it took me 10 minutes of honking before I figured out how to shut it off. I never use the keyless entry or anything, so I figure the alarm isn't very good.

Have any of you installed an aftermarket alarm/remote starter on this model 4runner? Do I need any additional relays or maybe one of those P3 bypass modules. On the DEI website they only mention 99+ 4runners needed the bypass, but I'd hate to get all those wires hooked up and then have to rip it all out because I can't get it started. I'm pretty handy with electrical stuff, I just want to make sure there aren't any hidden traps waiting for me.

Thanks a lot guys.

Localmotion

I am pretty sure the 96-98 do not need the bypass. I have a 96 and didnt need it. I think 99 is when they started to do the fancy stuff.

Solder Solder Solder

good luck

mikelj

Cool, man, thanks a lot. I'll take notes on the install and post any hints or tips I spot. Maybe I can even hustle up a digi to post some pics.

On a related topic, have you ever used one of those quick heating soldering irons? When I was doing EE we had those damn soldering irons that were like working with molten lava, and I'd burn everything in reach. I heard they have these that heat up at the touch of a button and cool off super fast, but I've never used one. Any luck with those?

Thanks again.

marko3xl3

I don't know much about them, but I haven't heard anything good about them. The connection it's solder makes is really crappy and doesn't hold up well. I guess in un-important applications it's fun to play with, but when you want something to work for the next 10 years, tucked away behind the dash, just use a traditional "gun-type" solder. Here's a good write-uo about soldering, you can learn a lot:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127/soldering-101-a-75181/

bigacuralvr

- If you have a fat key, you have the immobilizer. If you can get a key cut at home depot, etc and it starts your car, you're in business and DO NOT need a 555F bypass.

- The cold heat soldering irons are worthless!! They only solder 22 gauge wires and smaller....which is not near enough for your wiring.

- Take your time, solder, and hide the brain!!! If you take out your speedo cluster, there is tons of room in behind there to hide it.

- Also, I cannot stress this enough, USE GOOD EXPENSIVE TAPE!!! Use electricla tape that is more stretchy, not vinyl tape. Thsi way it really wraps and conforms to your wires.

- Last but not least, take your time, and use a DMM to check everything before hooking it up. Oh, and don't hook up 12v until everything is installed. (I usually wire it, but remove the fuse.)

Good luck!! If you need anything else, just pm me.

Brett

mikelj

Damn, I do have that stupid fat key (SecuriKey+). So the 555F is the bypass that works with the Toyotas? I looked through the install manual, and it doesn't look too tough. I'm familiar with using a DMM and all, and the manual is pretty concise, explaining exactly how to identify wires by when they go hot. Plus I have a wiring diagram so I should be OK. (not great but at least OK).

Thanks a lot for the heads up, any other advice let me know. I have to go to New Orleans on business (heh, to build a bathroom (I mean, sell stocks and stuff)) so I most likely won't get on the install until Wednesday or Thursday at the earliest. My luck someone steals it in New Orleans.

Thanks again.

MTL_4runner

I did an install for my 550ESP and here are the pics for it all (should be all the info you you need except the bypass module): http://community.webshots.com/album/109253034GvuWek If you run into more trouble, the best place for alarm questions is www.the12volt.com That was where I found alot of info when I did mine and got stuck a few times.

bigacuralvr

I used the 555F, because if you use the 556U you have to give up a key (and I didn't have one....). It works great. Just 3 wires, and about 30 minutes of trying to program it. Just get the diagram from www.the12volt.com and you'll be golden. Good luck!

Brett

nrgetic99

You know you can find the tach wire in the diagnostic connector, right ?

David

bigacuralvr

Yep, black wire in diag connector, drivers side on intake mani.

nrgetic99

Hey Brett,

Off the top of your head, do you need to diode isloate the door circuits in a 98 Limited ?

I just got one and have a remote start alarm I wish to install. It has onboard relays for the locking and remote start which is great but I would like to have a simple alarm as well.

I can hook up the door trigger to the drivers door and I know my 96 was fine linking all of the doors togther. My 99 was NOT.

Any idea ??

Thanks

David

bigacuralvr

Hmmm...I didn't diode mine, and all doors on my 99 are together, minus the rear hatch...that was separte. You are probably not on the right wire. Here is the diagram just to make sure. It is for a 98.

12volts white - white/red + ignition harness
Starter grn/blk or black + ignition harness
Ignition black/yellow + ignition harness
Second Ignition blk/yel or blk/red + ignition harness
Accessory blue/red + ignition harness
Power Lock red/white - 10 pin plug, left of fusebox
Power Unlock red/yellow - 10 pin plug, left of fusebox
Parking Lights+ green white plug, front of fusebox
Parking Lights- red/white steering column
Door Trigger black/white - DKP, harness to rear
Dome Supervision use door trigger
Trunk/Hatch Pin red/white - DKP, harness to rear
Tachometer black ac ignitor or diag. plug
Notes: Ignitor is on passenger side fender well. Diagnostic connector is on drivers side top of motor.
Brake Wire green/white + at switch
Horn Trigger green/red - steering column

Doesn't look like it for the 98....But for the 99, I found this: The green/yellow wire is the key cylinder unlock wire, the blue/yellow wire is the unlock detection wire. Use both wires and diode isolate.

Also: TOYOTA, 4RUNNER, 1999, Door Trigger: behind drivers side junction block in a 13 pin plug.

Hope that helps....I guess I did have to diode it...hmmm....it was 2 years ago.

Bob_98SR5

the only vehicles that need diodes are ones w/ the key immobilizers

nrgetic99

Great...

This place is getting back to the old days... quality info in no time at all.

David

bigacuralvr

Well, it happens to be my specialty....
Brett