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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Installed Pro Comp ES 9000 shocks

Old 01-15-2004, 07:40 AM
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Installed Pro Comp ES 9000 shocks

I went out at lunch yesterday to loosen the bolts that hold my old shocks, so I could switch out the shocks when I got home. Well the bolts came right out and I had the fronts on in 20 minutes. I decided to take a long lunch and finish the job. It took a little over an hour to do all four shocks. I didn't have my camera with me as I was not planning on finishing the job at lunch.
I bought the shocks from 4 Wheel Parts http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2....KS&cat=Shocks. The cost was $160 for 4 shocks and boots. Free shipping.
Here are a few things I learned while doing the job.
I removed the spare tire and carried it in the roof rack for a few days. This was so I could soak all bolts with PB Blaster; its much easier to get to the upper rear bolts with the tire removed.
I did not remove any tires or jack up the Runner at any time.
I used channel locks to grab the top of the old shocks so they didn't spin. A strap wrench would have made it easier to hold the shock bodies but mine came off fairly easy. The fronts are very straight forward and easy to get to. I layed under the front (between the tires) and pushed the 1/2" socket with my feet to remove the lower bolts. They are big and on very tight. Just put the new shock in the top hole and compress the shock until the lower holes line up. Push the bolt from the back side through the shock and tighten up all bolts.
The rear end is a little harder because the top bolts are hard to get to, especially on the passenger side. You can use a deep socket to remove the upper bolts (this wont work on the front). In order to remove the passenger shock, I held the body through the triangle shaped hole in the panhard bulkhead. I had to pry the lower shock eyes off the mounts with a large screwdriver. Remove the shocks. I reused the old rubber and metal washer that is directly over the shock. It is shaped to go through the upper mounting hole and center it. The new one was just a large round piece. I also had to put the larger bushing in the lower eye. This came with the shocks. Put the top stud in the hole and slowly compress until the lower eye can be slid onto the bottom pin. I greased the bottom pin as to ease the bushing sliding on, and tightened all bolts.
Overall a very easy job. The new shocks handle well on and off road. I can't compare to Bilstien, etc though, but the price is much better. They are very good quality and about 50% bigger than the OEM ones.
Old 01-26-2004, 11:17 AM
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What are your opinions on them now that you've had them for a few weeks? I'm looking at getting some from Summit for $34.75 or something each, so I'm curious as to what you have to say about them.

:beaver:
Old 01-26-2004, 11:45 AM
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I like them a lot. Much better ride than OEM shocks. On road is much improved; not harsh at all. I was afraid the on road ride would be harsh with them being high pressure. Off road is more harsh than OEM but still not bad. I can't compare to Rancho, Bilstein, etc. Just looking at quality, the shocks/boots are well built, and much heavier duty than the OEM's. I've seen other brands with really crappy welds, but not these. The only issue I had was the boot tops got pushed off the top ring when the rubber washers expanded. This only happened to the front shocks. I loosened the top nut and slid the boots back on and they have stayed so far. It may have been this way when I first installed them as I was in a rush. In my opinion for the price (less than half the price of Bilstein's) they are a great shock.
Old 01-26-2004, 11:49 AM
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Cool, thanks. I'll be getting them!

Old 01-26-2004, 12:27 PM
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I put ES3000's on the front and ES9000's on the back and i think they're great value for money. Big difference over my OEM shocks. A lot less roll on bends. I'd recommend them too.
Old 02-08-2004, 10:11 PM
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Yay! I just ordered them!

Hopefully I'll get them by wednesday night so I can install them on a lift, without crouching, laying, or kneeling; in my auto class.

I also got a Pro Comp steering stabilizer.

And 3 sets of blue shock boots to match all my color-coded bling-bling flashy-light mods, and my blue interior. (Where's the 'bling' smiley-face? )

I'll post how everything goes!

Old 02-09-2004, 07:40 AM
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Let me know how the steering stabilizer works. I am curious if it has the same ends as to OEM stabilizer.
Old 02-09-2004, 08:55 AM
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Originally posted by Highland Runner
Let me know how the steering stabilizer works. I am curious if it has the same ends as to OEM stabilizer.
I'm pretty sure that only the OME steering stabilizer is a direct fit/replacement for a stock stabilizer.

I believe that Rancho and Pro Comp both require additional brackets.
Old 02-09-2004, 04:05 PM
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Yes, it just bolts right in. Direct replacement.

If anybody is curious- The total for all 4 shocks, steering stabilizer, and 3 pairs of boots came to $202.05. $8.~ for handling, with free shipping. I'm looking at them arriving on thursday.

Can't wait.
Old 02-11-2004, 03:01 PM
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Sweet, UPS felt like being pimp and they arrived today!

I'm hoping to use a lift in my auto class to install them today.

About how long should (everything is relative) it take to get out the old shocks and install the new ones? I already soaked the bolts with PB. I'm hoping they won't be retarted and decide to be hard as hell to get off.

Oh, and, Damn! They are twice as thick as the stock shocks! The steering stabilizer is as thick as 3 stock stabilizers held next to eachother.

Hopefully they'll hold up well for my trip to Ocotillo Wells this weekend.

Old 02-11-2004, 03:34 PM
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I have es3000's all around and love them. Great price and ride great on or off the road. I hope they last a long time.


Mike.
Old 02-11-2004, 05:23 PM
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The entire job took me just over an hour. My bolts came right off with a large wrench. A strap wrench will help hold the shock bodies, especially with the rears. Just put the boots on the shocks and change out the lower bushing in the rear shocks with the extras that came with them before you start the job. Follow the above instuctions and you should be good. The front shocks took 5 min each to remove, and the rears took 10 min each to remove.

Last edited by Highland Runner; 02-11-2004 at 05:25 PM.
Old 02-12-2004, 09:21 AM
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Hey, are are these things the bushings you're talking about? There was just 4 of them loose in the main shipping box. There could have been more, cause one side of the box was ripped open like somebody was curious what I got, and decided to have a look.



Where do they go?
Old 02-12-2004, 10:14 AM
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Anybody?

The picture I posted is of a black bushing-ish thing, and the inside is a smooth tube.
Old 02-12-2004, 10:25 AM
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Those go in the bottom of the rear shocks. One bushing comes with each shock, but you only need two. The bushings that are in the shocks are too small by just a little. I didn't find this out until I couldn't push the bottom of the rear shocks on. They are somewhat hard to push the old ones out and new ones in.

Last edited by Highland Runner; 02-12-2004 at 10:28 AM.
Old 02-12-2004, 12:52 PM
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Yea, it was a pain in the ass, but I needed 4 wider bushings.

The rear shocks I have have the holes on each end. How are they on your runner? a hole on the bottom, and rod on the top?
Old 02-12-2004, 02:29 PM
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Damn, this steering stabilizer is a bitch to get off. I took off the bolt and nut on the left, and the nut with the pin on the right. Is there anything else to remove? I'm bashing the bastard with a sledge and a pickle fork, and it's not budging. There's also some gross yellow grease stuff coming out of one of the bushings.

So should I just keep bashing it? Or am I missing something?
Old 02-12-2004, 02:42 PM
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Ya, that side of the stock one can be a pain in the butt.

That link that the stock one goes into is tapered, so the stud on the stock stabilizer has to come out from the front (pound from the rear of it and try to hit it out the front). It is in there really good. If you end up not getting it, let me know and I can tell you a few things I had to do to finally get it out. Just beat the piss out of it...hopefully it will go.

When you put your new one on, put some anti-seize on the stud so subsequent removals are easier.
Old 02-12-2004, 03:02 PM
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I've been beating on it since my last post. My cousin even tried. We used a rubber BFH, then a plastic BFH, now he's going to get his dad's metal BFH. I've used a crap load of PB Blaster, too.

So you wanna fill me in on some of your secrets?



Oh yea, we've beat it so much that it's all mangled lookin. I'm glad they supply their own with the replacement.

stabilizer-> <-me

Last edited by tenfourtyeight; 02-12-2004 at 03:04 PM.
Old 02-12-2004, 03:54 PM
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Damn this thing will not come off. My cousin was pounding and prying the whole time I was removing and replacing my left rear shock. I thought he'd have it done by then.

Would a gun work? I think I'll go get one. My cousin has a .22... If not...


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