WatsonMD

Yes, I've searched and still haven't found the answer!!!

I have a '96 SR5 Runner with the indash CD and 6 speakers. I have bought a new Alpine 9813 to upgrade the system (clearance $225, couldn't pass it up). Naturally, the speakers will have to be upgraded as well in the near future. I'm into clean/clear not huge power and huge bump (no subs). First the questions:

Questions:
1. Are the stock front speakers controlled by crossover units??
2. For the rears, I'm considering the Alpine SPS-130A 5.25" - any comments??
3. Is my deck underpowered to run the Alpine SPS-171A 6.5 components in the front without an amp.
4. Or should I jump to the Alpine Type R set up (SPR 134A 5.25" & SPR 176A 6.5 components). I'm worried that the power requirement for the Type R is higher than the deck can provide (26RMS/60peak).
5. If the components are not the way to go - then what??
6. Any other suggestions or comments

Thanks for the input.
Andrew

kford

1. no, just straight from the wiring harness to the speakers.
2. I had enough trouble fitting 4" back there, and i know everyone fits 5.25's, but you'll have to modify your bracket. the door panels will get in the way of them too, not a good design as far as speakers go.
3. Prett much any head unit is going to underpower aftermarket speakers, even the 9813 which I believe has the v-drive 27w rms 60wx4 peak. If you're serious about the bump bump, you'll need an amp, but i'm not, i have the 9811 (mp3, not v-drive though) feeding into some pioneer and some infinity spkrs, no amp, sounds good to me.
4. You'll definitely want an amp if you're going to run type R's. there's NO NEED to buy nice speakers if you're going w/o an amp, you won't notice a difference. Buy some pioneers, best bang for the buck. Type R's sound freaking amazing with sufficient power though.
5. Component fronts are the way to go, I just have 2-way speakers, but tweeters are definitely nice. Hiding a crossover is easy, go for it. Again, dont' waste money on speakers if you're not going to power them though.
6. Run your power lead straight from the battery to your head unit. I know you'd think it would be oK but it's not, and it's a breeze. Sounds intimidating if you've never hooked up lights or anythign straight to the batt but it's not. Just disconnect neg., pos., run your wire through firewall grommet, around dash, plug in pos., then neg. Easy.
Hope this helps.

Del

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I read somewhere that you should hook up a fuse or breaker when running the 60X4 s. I'm looking around now, I'll let you know if I find any info.

EDIT - if anyone know's about this, it'll be BumpinYota.

WolfpackTLC

Don't you dare insult any component set by trying to power it w/ a head unit. Buy a seperate 4 ch for them or just buy some co-axials.

Del

OK so straight from Crutchfield.com,

I don't know it you have the V-Drive, but if it's 60X4 I'm pretty sure you do.

kford

Good call Del, I said that, but yes v-drive=60wx4 peak. That's what I meant by directly connect the power to the battery. Obviously you'll need a fused power cable or your unit would be fried with any mishap. You don't really need an amp wiring kit as that will come with lots of extra stuff you don't need and are generally expensive. Just go to wal mart and buy a good quality 10-12 guage wire, some good connectors (a ring for the batt terminal and then crimp or solder the other end to the lead from the head unit) and then ground it with your own rig (same wire, just screw it into something metal behind the dash).
But you're absolutely right, I figured you would know but of course run a FUSED cable from the battery.

And Wolfpack pretty much got at what I was trying to say: you need an amp if you are going to run components or any good speakers, otherwise just get some cheapo 2-ways. They'll sound great, but not GREEEAAT without high end speakers and a nice amp to push the sound through.

Del

[QUOTE]Good call Del, I said that, but yes v-drive=60wx4 peak. That's what I meant by directly connect the power to the battery. [QUOTE]

Yea I'm a little retarded right now. Long day at the bank.

Mystickal

Make sure that you have the fuse in the engine compartment, prior to the wire crossing the firewall. You can have fuses after it passes the firewall also, but at a minimum, put one in the engine compartment.

~Bill

Duffdog

yeah---um, that deck does not draw near enough amperage to warrant a direct to the battery connection. connecting the deck to the 12guage keyswitch interface would be more than plenty for any deck, regardless of the marketing hype associated with it.

T

JASPER99

WatsonMD: 1) the OE speakers do not have cross overs; 2) I am running the SPS-130A's in the rear...love em! TWO THINGS: A) You can but a custom plate modifier for the rear doors off of Ebay. There is disabled man who sells a great set for around $15.00...just do a search. B) I placed a capacitor in-line with the rears to further reduce bass (Radio Shack) because I have a 8" RF sub built in the rear useless cargo space. I can give you directions about how to do this if you like.; 3) Alpine heads run Alpine speakers well...try it first and see if you like it.....than go with the amp. Mine are not amp'd it's still mind blowing; 4) The R is nice, but you will need an amp than....do you like hearing? Don't MD's need to listen to heart sounds???; 5) I think you system Ideas sound great....MY front speakers are actually MB Quart 6 3/4". They have a better low end than Alpine; 6) I too like my music crisp and perfect not load and vibrating and am happy with what I have. You may want to consider the 8" Sub in the rear. If you live anywhere near Seattle, I would love to show you my handy work...even had color matched paint made up for the wood work and speaker grill! Let me know if this helps!

WatsonMD

As ever, there is a wealth of info on this board. Thanks for all the advice.

On the power side, a few weeks ago, I ran an 8guage wire from the battery to a new fuse block now mounted under the drivers seat (next to the alarm brain). So good clean power shouldn't be a problem.

I guess that I will drop down to the Type S (Alpine SPS-130A 5.25" rear & Alpine SPS-171A 6.5 components) all around. Since I'm not running an amp I will assume that the original factory speaker wiring would be adequate. Many on this board have said that it is.

Yes, I have to listen to heart sounds daily (cardiologist) so I tend to go for quality of sound & not volume.

Thanks again for all the info.
Andrew

JASPER99

Lubb dubb doc! Keep those ears crisp. Consider a 8" sub in the rear cargo hatch and Sade will never sound better! Matt PT (Jasper99)

JASPER99

Hey Doc, I have the alpine 6 disc under my drivers seat. Works great there. Also, Rockford Fosgates smallest amp will fit with some TLC under the front passanger seat....just make a good ground with the seat belt bolt or you'll hear a whirring!

WatsonMD

Thanks for the advice Jasper. I got the Alpine 9813 installed w/o a problem. Looks great - sounds incredible!!! Dramatic improvement from the stock head unit. Still haven't figured out all the buttons/capabilities. I cannot imagine what proper speakers will sound like. As above, I headed for the Apline Type S series all around.

Under my drivers seat is getting crowded - alarm brain, aux fuse block, mag light, deck plate storage, ect...

All the best.

Andrew