Originally Posted by HenrySacto

After replacing brembo rotors and brake pads…now when I drive on a smooth road I notice this sound…it is the sound of brake pads touching the rotors…is this normal for newly installed rotors and brake pads? Will this sound go away later?

Does this happen to any of you guys?

Thanks,
Henry

Originally Posted by HenrySacto

so I guess this sound is normal and will go away after it is broake in?

I'm just worried that w didn't install every correctly...but there isn't really a lot of incorrect when installing rotors and brake pads.

Originally Posted by gapboi210

the best way is to get the vehicle to around 40mph and bring it to a slow gentle stop. do this a few times and they will usually seat and also heat cycle.

Originally Posted by StopTech

Breaking in rotors and pads is critical to the optimum performance of your new brakes. When breaking in new parts, you are not only heat cycling the pads, but depositing a layer of pad material onto the rotor face as well. If not broken in properly, an uneven layer of pad material will be deposited onto the rotor causing vibration.

Virtually every instance of a “ warped rotor" is attributed to uneven pad deposition.

Typically, a heavy braking street driver will experience approximately 1 to 1.1G’s of deceleration. At this rate, ABS will be activated on such equipped vehicles. A moderate braking effort is needed to properly break in rotors and pads. A stopping force of approximately 70-80%, just short of ABS intervention or lock-up is a general estimate of pedal effort you are trying to achieve.

Note: Plated lated rotors must be driven with gentle braking until CAD plating is worn off rotor faces BEFORE starting the break-in procedure. Do not use brakes aggressively until plating is worn off, typically several miles of driving.

FAILURE TO READ, UNDERSTAND AND AND FOLLOW THESE PROCEDURES WILL CAUSE PERMANANT DAMAGE TO YOUR BRAKE ROTORS AND KEEP THE SYSTEM FROM WORKING AT IT’S FULL CAPACITY.

Rotor and Pad Break-in (continued)

After completeing installation, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle. During the 60 to 5-10 MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to appoximately 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10 MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer, keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of each cycle. After the final stop of each cycle, drive as much as possible without using the brakes to cool off the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using again.

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, AS YOU WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

There are several indicators to look for while breaking in the system:

On the 8th ot 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident after several stops as well. Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade”. This is a slight fading of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.

After the break-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint color on the rotor with a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates the rotor has reached the proper break in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.

If racing or higher performance pads are being used, add four stops from 80 to 5-10mph and if a full race pad, four stops from 100 to 5-10 mph.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at their best capacity capacity. A second or third bed-in cycle is typically necessary before the brakes really start to “come in”. A “cycle” is a series of stops with a cool down in between each cycle.

StopTech does not endorse speeding on public roads. If going above the legal speed limit, do so in a safe area, away from traffic at your own risk.

Originally Posted by gapboi210

never heard of a warped rotor due to uneven pad deposits. Usually cause by the rotor overheating.