I need brake bleeding input please....
#1
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I need brake bleeding input please....
Just finished new rear seals ( not to bad f a job if i say so myself, thanks to help from here ). So while i had the tires off i bleed ( blead past tense? ) the brake lines. Got the wife to pump a few times, and some fluid trickled out... i didn’t think she was pumping to hard hence the trickle... Anyhow when i got her off the blocks and all, she needed some fluid, as in the reservoir was empty. It was sitting for a few days on blocks while i got a dealer to press in the new parts, caped of as best i could, and a little fluid leaked. I had a tray under it, and nowhere close to the reservoir leaked out, maybe 1/10th.
So i got the reservoir filled up, and the brakes are still very soft. Could it be possible that the other wheels leaked out threw the one that was off, will i have to bleed all 4? I was planning on re-bleeding that one that was apart but thought i should get a little input b4 i try again.
Thanks
So i got the reservoir filled up, and the brakes are still very soft. Could it be possible that the other wheels leaked out threw the one that was off, will i have to bleed all 4? I was planning on re-bleeding that one that was apart but thought i should get a little input b4 i try again.
Thanks
#2
If you drained the reservoir, you will have to bleed the master cylinder, then the brakes again, starting at pass rear, driver rear, pass front then the driver front. If you are unsure how to bleed brakes properly, lots of 411 on the net about it.
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i needed mine bleed, didnt have a bleeder so i took it to midas and had it done for like $70 bucks... coulda bought one and done it myself for that price... and have owned a brake bleeder!
Last edited by Spanky; 08-17-2006 at 07:26 PM.
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just need a clear rubber hose anyhow, and a friend to pump it. Sites say this is most effective, as well a gravity meathod.... Anyhow ive seen shops do this with pumping the brakes, very quick and simple job, for 70$ ill give it a try myself, just no idea how to bleed the master cylinder yet.
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Originally Posted by wjwerdna
(bled = past tense of bleed or bleeding )
I love the avatar as well, there are many meanings to it, the dirty guys in here will think one thing...... I hope its a ok avatar!
Last edited by Arron; 08-18-2006 at 03:52 AM.
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Ok done some reading and searching. Best info i could find is http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...chmaintenance/ . Dont look so bad i guess. By bleeding the slave cylinder, will it bleed the master cylinder as well, or is there a seperate process for that? I looked on the master and there is no bleed nipple, just 2 brake leads coming off, and a third hole with a nut in it. My shop book only has how to purge the master while its on a bench, not while installed.
Can someone shed some light on the master cylinder for me, to make sure i do it right? Thanks.
Can someone shed some light on the master cylinder for me, to make sure i do it right? Thanks.
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keep it filled up while bleeding the brakes i did mine last week also it will help to use a hand held vac pump 30$ at auto zone also dose not hurt to remove you bleeder nips and put some teflon tape on them, you will get a better seal and no air will come in while you have a vac on the line,the most important thing is to keep the res full at all times and if you are at this point of bleeding your brakes it is best to flush them ,brake fluid draws water in over time so when it gets cold out you can get ice in your brakes also at that time you might want to rebuild the cylinders if the pistons are still in good shape,a rebuild kit costs around 10$ to 15$ at NAPA they will not have them in stock but it only takes a few days for them to come in on order.
when i rebuilt my brakes there was a lot of crud in them now the fluid is clear as glass and i can stop alot better now, my brakes lock up again if i have to stomp on them.
on a side note i had bought some carbon metallic pads paid 50$ for them had them for a month on the truck rebuilt the cyliners and still had stopping problems bought some none carbon metallic and they worked a whole lot better.
good luck
when i rebuilt my brakes there was a lot of crud in them now the fluid is clear as glass and i can stop alot better now, my brakes lock up again if i have to stomp on them.
on a side note i had bought some carbon metallic pads paid 50$ for them had them for a month on the truck rebuilt the cyliners and still had stopping problems bought some none carbon metallic and they worked a whole lot better.
good luck
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