robbieracer

Today I recieved my TRD headers! These are sweet! I bought them from Toyota Territory and had them send the headers directly to HPC for a ceramic coating, then HPC sent them on to me. These are high quality headers, very nice! It took me about 2 1/2 hours to remove the stock exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe. All the nuts came off easily, I sprayed them with a penetrating oil first, but considering they don't salt the roads in Sacramento, Ca there wasn't any rust there... The only real problem was removing the crossover pipe. I struggled with it for about 15 mins, then I decided to fire up the air compressor and I used a cut-off tool to cut through the pipe on the passenger side. I did a little cutting from the top and bottom, it went smoothly. Once the lower crossover pipe was cut off, the crossover pipe came right out. Tomorrow I plan on installing the TRD headers, I update this post on how everything went...

pfdaxe

That's pretty good time to remove. I haven't started mine. I was planning on having a shop do the install, but if it doesn't take that long I may do it myself. I have a reciprocating saw to do the cutting. How are you connecting the headers to the cat? Are you having someone weld on a flange?? How are the instructions that come with them??

Keep us posted.

Paul

:fireman:

AznSky

and I'm guessin since these headers are TRD that they cost you....a million dollars? haha j/k.

Keep us posted on the performance.

robbieracer

The instructions are mediocre... In the step by step process I didn't see any mention of cutting off the old flange and welding one a new one. But on the last page is a overview of what needs to be done and it's listed there. I'm not sure why they didn't weld the flange onto the header to line up with the cat. Unless there is a clearance problem or something. Guess, I find that out tomorrow. I'm going to borrow my friends welder for the flange and weld it myself. If you don't have one, you could always drive quietly to the nearest muffler shop and have them weld it on. I paid $700 for the headers including shipping. That's a really good price and I'm sure hard to beat.

Bob_98SR5

Robbie,

Whuchu talkin' about, Willis?!?!!?

$700 + shipping for the headers AND the ceramic coating? If so, HOOK A BRUTHA UP. Serious!

Bob

robbieracer

I bought the headers from toyota territory (omar) for $700 including shipping. The ceramic coating from HPC was $185 plus shipping, they coat the inside and outside of the headers.

rimpainter.com

I dont think that would work since the O2 sensor is after the cat.

Guess I need to learn to weld, or tow the 4runner with the Accord (yeah right!)

robbieracer

Okay, I'm all done! It took 3 hrs for the install. Getting the headers in on the drivers side is a bit tricky, but it'll go in. You can't force anything, just wiggle it around until it slides in, or find where it's binding and moving the header a little. Some the the bolts/nuts are hard to get on or not enough room for the torque wrench, so you have to guess on the proper ft lbs. I bought a set of Craftsman racheting wrenches (one is open and the box end rachets) a couple weeks ago and those really came in handy. It sped up the removal and install significantly. I have a question on those that have done this... The instructions are vague about the cat. flange and welding the new one on. What is the purpose of this. Everything lined up perfectly and the flange that I was suppose to cut off the cat looked exactly the same. I didn't do this step yet. I'll test drive it tomorrow after the gasket sealer dries and see what happens. I didn't want to cut the old one off just to weld on the same thing.

Dr. Zhivago

robbieracer, by your statement about having a flange on your cat already, I'm guessing this means you have a Tacoma. The 4Runner's cat and downpipe are one piece, whilst the Taco's are two separate pieces. The instructions refer to the 4Runner downpipe/cat situation. So, you don't need to mess with yours any further.

My .02
Dr. Z

robbieracer

Cool! Yep, I do have a Tacoma! That saves me a little work. I'll save the flange just in case I need it down the road, like if I ever decide to go with a high flow cat... I can't wait to test drive it in the morning...........

rimpainter.com

Ok, now I really want the headers.

Bob_98SR5

96,

Me too. I prefer to go the naturally aspirated route than the SC route (I hear the gasping in the peanut gallery).

Robbie, if you have the time and haven't already, take lots of pics and please do a write up. I think alot of folks here could benefit from your install. Or if you'd like, take the pics, zip em, email them to me w/ a write up in MS word and i'll post it.

Bob

MY024runner

Got any pictures?I'll check back later

robbieracer

Sorry guys, I didn't take any pictures along the way. I don't have a digital camera, I could always borrow one from my parents or sister, but not sure how well you could see anything since it's all installed now. Gadgetonline has some photos and a write-up, I read through his before my install, which helped. In the directions it says to remove the tires, it's not necessary (I didn't remove them), but probably easier to get at the engine compartment on the drivers side between the frame and fender after removing the rubber flap. Another thing I did was remove the differential breather mounted on the drivers side fender, the header was hanging up on it and I popped it off with a screwdriver and the this helped the header slide in easier. One other thing the directions said was to put the gasket sealer on first then start removing the old exhaust system. I think this is too much drying time. I put on the gasket sealer on all the header parts after removing the exhaust system and just before starting to install the new system. I didn't have a problem with any of the gaskets falling off during installation. If you attempt this you must have a good selection of tools. I used different lengths socket extentions, from 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drives. You should also have a 14 mm long socket for the header bolts, but sometimes this doesn't work so you'll need a box and open end wrench. One of the most difficult bolts to get too was the lower bolt on the single upper header crossover (It's between the engine and the firewall above the bell housing). I used a 12mm socket with the nut taped (don't use too much masking tape or the socket will stay on the nut and you'll have to fish/pry it off with a screwdriver and hope it falls somewhere you can find it) on to a 1/4 drive, then went up to a 3/8 inch drive all the way out into the fender well to my torque wrench, I probably had 5 extentions attached together. There isn't any room in the engine compartment for a rachet, that's why I extended out to the wheel well. That's all for now, gotta run. I'll update this again after my test drive...

robbieracer

These headers are great! Originally the stock system seemed to have so much back pressure that I needed to shift sooner than normal. Then I changed out the muffler, air filter and removed the elbow on the air box. That really helped, but now with the headers on, it's even better. The truck pulls long and hard, I don't need to shift as soon. It definitely has more power... I didn't drive it too much today, I'm sure it'll take a little time for the computer to adjust, but these are great! I'm sure the fuel economy will go up too, has long as I'm easy on the pedal... If you have the money, I would highly recommend these. TRD pays attention to detail and everything fit in nicely. While installing them, I thought to myself, how in the world can this thing fit in that tight engine compartment, but everything fit perfectly after manuvering it into place. Oh, one other tip I learned from the TV show "Trucks" on TNN. They said most of the header leaks are caused from the engine heating up and cooler off, this causes everything to expand and contract. So, you should recheck the torque on the bolts a couple times and retorque the bolts down after a week or so and this should prevent any future header leaks...

rimpainter.com

Robbiecar:

The headers sound awesome! You make the install sound easy.
I have done clutches, cams, and trannies on other vehicles, but for some reason, this install scares me. Your description makes the install sound pretty easy. So maybe it is something I will tackle.

If you ever get a chance, take your truck to the strip and run it a couple times. I would love to know what the N/A 5speed 4Runner runs in the 1/4 mile with all these mods!

Have fun!

spud4x4

I've just picked up a new set of TRD headers from a local Toyota dealer at an awesome price. Unfortunately, there were no instructions included and I'm hoping someone can provide a copy for me. I can do this without them, but sure would feel better having them around for reference.

Thanks

bbkoz

RobbieCar:

You make the install sound too easy. I had put the headers wayyy down on my list since I heard the install was such a bitch. Now I need to start saving extra again. Thanks..

robbieracer

After having these on my truck for a year now, I still think they're great! I'm glad I spent the money and time to install these. I have a very small header leak on the passenger side where the two header sides bolt together. I should have used more sealant, but it's a very small leak and not too noticable, It'll be an easy fix. I'm now pulling a boat and it does pretty well, but I'm sure a supercharger would be even better, but I don't want to pay for premium gas, the cheap stuff is over $2 a gallon here...