oly884

Well, it's finally here. I know that this should be put in the maintenance section, but hopefully I'll get more responces here. Ok, I've never installed an engine before. My uncle has and he's going to help me with that, so the istallation won't be that hard. My question is, my engine died with 160,000 miles on it and I'm wondering what I should replace? I'm getting my fule injectors cleaned, replacing any hoses, timing belt, etc. I've got a brand new thermostat in it. Radiator is new, but I'm getting that cleaned. In the installation manual it says that I should replace the fule pump, water pump, high tension wires???, oxygen, temp, and map sensors. The oxygen sensor is also brand new. What of these should I replace? I know these things arn't cheap. And what are high tension wires??? Any suggenstions on these, also are there any tips or shortcuts on installing it? By the way it's a 3.0L V-6 longblock.

Los Gatos?

Replace everything...with a 3.4l. Seriously man, if you are talking big $$$ and a new engine, upgrade to a 3.4l! If you have a manual it's a direct swap with a bit of wiring stuff. The v6 is a pooch and gets bad gas mileage. You're lucky you get to replace it....if you do keep it you should do some work on it before you assemble it...get the heads ported+polished and maybe look at what cylinder work you can have done, I think there are people here with .05 over cylinders. But anyway....if you are set on keeping the 3.0, replace whatever the manual says to replace. It's cheaper to do it now than to put in another engine in a few months if something breaks.

loosehead

I'm not sure about the "high tension wires" either, never heard that term before. But the only thing I would add to the list is new ignition components, and if you are re-using your old distributor, make sure that it is up to snuff, too. I would also try to tune it with a little bit more of timing advance than the manual recommends. It will help to make up a few more ponies.

rimpainter.com

Rear main seal couldnt hurt.

TurboKH

By high tension wires, they're referring to the spark plug wires. Long block means the heads are already installed when you got it, right? If you're going to disassemble the thing, it's a good idea to have the heads ported and polished, but make sure the machine shop knows what they're doing (ie they did Toyota heads before) so they know how far to go. There might be a cam out there that will work with the head and valve work you're having done. Also, a variation from the stock ignition timing setting would be nice, but I don't think the ecu will let you do it.. it'll set it back where it wants it to be. Headers will help, but keep in mind the 3.0 will never have crazy horsepower. They were designed to last a long time; with proper maintenance, they do. You'll have to throw a lot of money at it to get marginal increases in performance. I've had 3 trucks with 3.0. My current one is a great vehicle, but I got sick of the lack of power so I installed 400 horsepower of GM V8 and a GM automatic with OD. (I'm not suggesting it, just commenting).

Salue

Hey since you have the engine out, why not put in headers while you're at it? I think that would be the best time to get at it, otherwise it'll take a lot more time. If you ever thought about putting them on, now's the time.

Salue

Firefyter-Emt

Ok.. I have been here and done this before... First off, you want to replace the clutch while you are there, make sure you do it right and get the flywheel done.. Replace the rear main seal and pliot bearing.. (here is a tip.. fill the "hole" with bearing grease, and find a bolt or dowel that is the same size.. stick it into the hole in the center and give it a good hit , making sure you have filled it good with grease, and the preasure will push the bearing out). Now, replace the water pump and timing belt..
Also replace the oil pump. (these are the hardest things to do later...) Now replace the knock sensor wire where it goes thru the intake manifoild (get it from Toyota, and make sure the harness end is correct before you put the intake on!!.. Dont ask how I know :mad: ) Injectors beeing cleanded is a great step too.. Now, replace ALL the heater hoses at the back of the motor.. (very hard to get to later..) Replace the 2 rubber cooling lines for the oil cooler on the lower left side of the motor.. Replace the plug wires with OEM!~ Aftermarket suck, Toyota is cheaper and come with the wire looms and alread have them on the wires in proper places and are # by spark plug.. Drive belts would be a good time to be done.. (save the old ones with the seat under the jack...) Spark plugs - (duh..)

As for the fuel pump?? Nawh, their somking something.. it is in the gas tank.. MAP sensor?? I am not sure we even have one.. O2?? good time, but if new don't worry... Good time for a fuel filter, but unless the truck has sat, you should be fine.. However, you are having the injectors doen.. I would change it.. (use PB Blaster and flare wrenches.. If you don't have flare wrenches, don't even try)

Also, you may want to buy a "head set" for gaskets if you have not already.. a long block with the heads on will already have the head gaskets, and the valve seals are not needed, but toyu need all the intake gaskets, maybe cam seals, all those stupid fuel line gaskets and timing cover seals.. It may be best to buy it, and sell the head gaskets on e-bay )

PS.. I have FSM pages from a 93 I can fax you if you need.. and I have my own 92 FSM.. (timing belt is diffrent between these 2..)

Also buy a 10mm / 12mm ratcheting wrench ( you can thank me later...)

Feel free to e-mail me if you get stuck - e-mail is on my web site)

PS.. go check out my site, I have some good photos from when I changed my motor..

Good luck... give yourself 2 days..

Firefyter-Emt

These prices are from 1-02.. but you can get an idea..
[list=1]
clutch disk -->66.33
preasure plate --> $133.83
Bearing (pliot) --> $8.76
Bearing (throw out) --> $43.47
Clutch flex hose --> $25.06 (PS.. I forgot this one.. you will need it)
drive belts --> $17.72; $16.39; $10.20 (3 belts)
Hoses --> $13.29; $17.12; $15.38 (don't remember which ones)
Rear main seal --> $21.46
knock sensor wire--> $8.29
oil cooler hoses --> $ 8.55; $ 18.09 (2 hoses)
water pump --> $ 103.30
timing belt --> $ 41.83

New prices... as of 2-03

plug wires --> $ 62.81
spark plugs --> $ 1.97 (X6)
oil filter --> $ 5.41
head set (gaskets0--> $ 300.67


I paid $37.05 to have the flywheel done by a good shop[/list=1]

Now these are full list prices and the older ones are sure to be off.. Also, I paid close to 25% off thses prices.. Talk to the parts guy.. try to get a discount.. Are you TLCA?? any "real" local 4x4 clubs?? these can help..

Firefyter-Emt

PS.. (or PPS) headders are great, but once you have the stock ones off once, it is fairly easy to put headders on later save some cash and do them at a later date.. (you are going to sink some serious cash right now..)

PS.. Make DANG SURE you have a good shop work on those heads.. I had a set crap out on me in less than 3k after having them done poorly.. (PS, I was set back over $750 because of that!!)

oly884

Wow guys, thanks for all the info! The whole thing that really gets me about what happened was that I got a new clutch, pilot bering, and all that crap about 5,000 miles ago. The engine comes with an oil pump on it, but the water pump is a good idea to replace. I'm not going to take the heads off of the block for two reasons. #1 The company already did the work on the heads and, #2 there was an option to have some very nice cams put on the engine before it was shipped to me. It cost more, but it's nice to have some performance cams on the engine now. I'll replace the heater hoses, along with the core. Headers would be very nice, but I have insufficant funds right now. I know that now would be the best time to do it, but I plan on getting headers and make a custom exhaust where I'll have true dual exhaust. From what Firefyter-Emt said: that I shouldn't bother with the fule pump. How much are they? I know you said that it wouldn't be worth it, but how long do they last? What about the distributor? how can you tell if it's going to last? It's really sad because I did a major tune-up within the last 4-5 thousand miles. Anyways, thanks for all the help guys.

Firefyter-Emt

Your distrubutor should be just fine.. as for the fuel pump.. you do know it's in the gas tank right?? I would figure $125ish.. But you have to drop the gas ank to get to it.. That is the main reaso I say don't bother with it.. But if you ever do replace it, buy all new fuel lines from Toyota.. they are realitivly cheap (under $100) and they have a rust / rot problem...

While on that subject.. the brake line also likes to rot right above the right coil spring top mount.. it makes a 90 degree angle and is not coverd in plastic.. Problem is that this line is normaly 100% of the time under dirt (here in Mass read salt..)

I see your tune up info.. Clutch should be good (mark the preasure plate and flywheel to bolt back togather in the same spot.. may not make a diffrence, but it only takes a second to mark..)

I would still think about new plug wires.. even with the proper tool to remove the right bank is hard to remove and it only takes a small break to start a set of wires oon a downward sprial.. For the $60.. put on new ones..

oly884

I'm bringing this back up because I have one more question. What should I do for my Injectors? I know I need them cleaned, but where and how. I've got some very very consintrated fuel injector cleaner, but is it better to get them ultrasonicly cleaed? If there is any one around the seattle area that knows of a place that could do this that would be great. Also what is it per injector for ultrasonic cleaning?

Firefyter-Emt

Corey should know.. I think he had his sent out... Check with him...

PS, that head set has all the o-rings, and rubber gaskets for the injectors..

Salue

I had my injectors cleaned by Dr. Injector. They were in Redmond at least a few years ago, not sure now. After they cleaned them they printed out the before and after spray results. I was surprised at the difference.

Salue

oly884

So I'm sitting here looking at my engine and I call up my uncle who's really good with engines and installing them. Anyways, I told him that I just bought a new timing belt. He then said that he's never seen a longblock engine that wasn't timmed, meaning that it should have the timing belt along with the cams and things in the right position. come to find out it doesn't have that stuff. Long story short here's an attachment of what my engine should look like with the timing belt on it. The problem is, IT DOESN'T! I don't know if I got screwed or what? It worries me because I got aftermarket cams put on through the rebuilder and since they are after market they might need to be adjusted a little different. If anyone can help that would be great.

Salue

So, what does yours look like?

Salue

Skydigger

Yeah. What does yours look like? Kind of hard to help if we don't know the problemo!!


Warren

ringo234

I had my 3.0 V6 rebuilt about a year ago. It cost me $3500.00. I had it bored .050" over and added Downey Headers and K&N Filter. It runs a hell of alot better, but if had it to do over I would get a used Japanese 3.4 V6 and swap it in.

I would need help with the ECU and wiring harness. Probaly need to get a custom exhaust because th3 3.4 is on the opposite side.

That being said It is a superior engine and worth the effort.

Just my 2 cents.

Andy

Firefyter-Emt

It would be hard for that motor to come as a long block with the belt on.. You have to have the intake manifoild on, which means you need the knock sensor wire harness, he would need the water inlet/ upper bearing, the inner-upper timing cover. You need to check with the shop about the cams, but I would assume that you would put them to the stock marks.. (Just make dang sure you are on the correct stroke and #1 is TDC (top dead center- #1 piston up) Also, that belt is a pain in the , well.... you know! you have to tension it just right.. It is easy to get the cams one tooth off

I don't think you got short changed.. Just that desigh did not come with the timing set with a long block.. (Should of got the belt though...)

PS, that photo has the older style t-belt tensioner.. Is that the same one you have??

oly884

yeah that's what my engine looks like. I'll try to get a picture of what my engine looks like and I'll post it up.