atistang

03 Taco, 5VZ-FE, 4wd trd, 5spd

When i first got my tacoma last year i noticed the shifting was "notchy", then a few months ago i noticed my clutch pedal started to only come half way up when i released it, i could pull it all the way up and it would stay but then there was nothing until about half way down. it was like there was a ton of free play.

so I replaced the slave cylinder then bleed the clutch, it didn't change anything.

next i replaced the master cylinder, then bled. Everything was fine after making some adjustments to the push rod on the master cylinder. then i go to leave work the next day and my clutch is almost on the floor, it would just barely disengage the clutch enough to put it into first. When i put it in first with he clutch in the truck would try to lunge.

So I go to bleed the clutch again, after the first time opening the bleeder and shutting it I had nothing at all. I worked the clutch pedal by hand rapidly and still nothing, it just went strait to the floor.

Heres what i don't understand, I had to adjust the pushrod all the way in, then i had a small amount of pedal like i did before. So from there i bled it once again, adjusted the clutch pedal and everything was fine.

Went to work the next day and it did great on the way to work, went to leave and my clutch pedal is doing the same thing again.

I bled it the right way, have someone pump the pedal then hold it to the floor, then i cracked the bleeder, then tightened the bleeder back and repeat.

at this point all i can figure is
- the new master cylinder is bad
- i still have air I haven't got bled out
- i'm adjusting the pushrod to much and some how that is causing the master cylinder to fail

any thoughts on this? anyone else run into this?

I'm really at a loss on what to do next, i got the master cylinder through rockauto.com so i don't think returning it for another is an option. I'm gonna dig through the trash and see if i still have the old master cylinder, if i do then i might put it back on and see if I get the results i used to have before the new master cylinder.

sweet trav

My clutch is very similar to what you described with your original one so I'll be interested to see what the solution is. Sorry i'm not any help but thanks for the post!

atistang

lol, well if you have luck like mine then just deal with what you have now, trying to fix the problem only makes it worst

seriously though i'm sure its on of 3 or 4 simple problems, just a matter of figuring out with one

atistang

the local parts store has a vacuum bleeder for about 30 bucks, i think i'm gonna buy that and rule out the possibility of air still being in the system

atistang

well i bled the clutch again and it is working great. we'll see if it lasts this time

atistang

its already starting to act up again. I guess i'm gonna buy another master cylinder to put on

eddieleephd

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...l/trou/pst.pdf
symptoms point to either master cyl or bad line causing air to get in.

atistang

thats a good trouble shooting chart, but yeah the symptoms point to the 3 things i thought lol

i'm gonna adjust the push rod all the way in and then bleed one more time then readjust it, if nothing changes then i'm gonna get yet another master cylinder and see what happens

eddieleephd

did you bench bleed either of these??? Replace the line and bench bleed before you go with another master cyl.
both times you said you installed then bled what about a bench bleed.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...hbleeding.html

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...raflu/blee.pdf
the clutch should be similar beings this is pretty much a bench bleed just on the truck. from toyota FSM by the way.

builder

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I'll offer one of those for-what-it's-worth comments based on my experience. A month or so ago I was having the half way to the floor problem and since I've been on lay off from work I chose to rebuild both the master and slave. I did the bench bleed, or so I thought. Everything was fine for a couple days and then the symptoms returned. What has worked for me has been bleeding the system again, and again, and again, and again, and again, get the picture. When they say bench bleed and tap on it with a screwdriver handle, bleed it, tap on it, that's what they mean. Seriously I've probably rebled the system a dozen or more times and it's pretty tight now. I may bleed it again though. You'll know you've turned the bend when itstead of it getting worse throughout the day, it gets better. I think the trick is in the bleeding. I had to bleed mine by myself, cut a 1X2 to fit between the pedal and the seat mount. Do not pump the clutch, it just atomizes the air bubbles and takes more bleed's to get them out. Hope this helps.

sidebar: love the Tundra brake upgrade, and it's easy.

RB

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eddieleephd

After reviewing this thread I am leaning towards the thought that you have your push rod adjusted too far in. I believe that what you need to do for the fix is a little of what builder said along with adjusting your push rod out. Then if you can get an assistant to help you, have the assistant press the pedal half way in and tap the master cyl with a rubber handled screwdriver to get the air bubbles out will probably have to do this multiple times. I did a master cyl on a VW Beetle recently and it was a big pain I tried the vacuum pump method first since I have one and I tried and tried then I finally had my brother help. What we ended up doing that worked is take another bottle of fluid and a tube to get in to the fluid and open the bleeder valve then pump the pedal repeatedly without emptying the reservoir then closing the bleeder and bleeding the usual way. I believe this worked by pushing all of the air out of the cyl in to the line then bleeding the line. I remember there being a specific way that would guarantee results for our trucks but have not been able to find it since your post. If I do find it I will post it.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=184626

Oh yeah we did do a very un orthodox thing and created a cap for the master and used an air compressor to push fluid through the system! Just don't run the fluid out of the cyl.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/b...ylinder-51409/

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t120172.html

here I really am just throwing posts that I found for you to see other responses.

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105955

atistang

looks like i'm gonna bleed it some more. it has gotten better since the last bleed.

builder

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I think the master cylinder on these rigs is very temperamental when it comes to bleeding out the air bubbles. I think what eddie and others have said is a very important point, eddie suggested having someone hold the pedal whilest you commence to whackin (gently) on the MC. I know your pain, I too considered just getting another MC and starting over. I really don't think that's necessary, I think the solution is in bleeding the air out of the line. I tried all the suggestions, prop the pedal and let the air work it's way up, crack the line at the MC to let the air out, I didn't try the removal of the bleeder screw and compressing the rod (that is probably a good idea), I just kept bleeding and rebleeding. I rebuilt my cylinders the first week of September and then messed with em on and off in my spare time for a couple weeks, no big deal. The biggest concern was in the not knowing, so maybe this info can help relieve that concern. I haven't HAD to mess with em for a couple weeks but as I said, I may give em one more bleed just to make it a little better. I still have a very good pedal, I'm very happy with the rebuild of both units. I did use lithium grease in the reassembly as per their suggestions. Be patient, you'll get it.

RB


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theAuthority

Here's the thing, dont buy any CMC or SC unless it's OEM.

Your master cylinder is failing, it either leaks fluid inside the firewall or sucks in air instead of sucking in fluid.

Another note, DO NOT RE-USE BRAKE FLUID, throw it away when you're bleeding ALWAYS USE NEW BRAKE FLUID. It gets aerated (with air) if you keep using the same fluid to bleed. I was using a 1 man bleeder for brakes ($7) @ Vatozone.

I just spent a week figuring out my clutch and replaced everything. My 2nd CMC from Vatozone worked ! First one failed horribly, same part numbers and were made completely different too, how weird?

atistang

pedal is coming all the way up now. but the clutch is inconsistent. one time i will take off and it will start to engage a few inches off the floor and the next time it will engage almost all the way out. I'm gonna try and see if i can get someone to help me tomorrow so i can bleed it some more.


i've never had this much trouble bleeding a clutch, its ridiculous

builder

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I went thru similar symptoms with mine, I would drive a few miles with it acting fine and then the close to the floor action. I still think that due to the similarities, you still have air somewhere. I could be wrong but it sounds alot like what I went thru. You might read this if you haven't already and try his method.

http://www.v8archie.com/arch4.htm

Another thought, I never did adjust the rod at the pedal. It seems like there should be a way to redesign the MC to include a bleeder, there are two chambers and it seems very difficult to purge the air from one or both.

Again I say hang in there, I hope bleeding it fixes it. Let us know the outcome, others will be interested.

RB


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atistang

lol i did something similar to that, i loosened the bleeder as i pushed the slave cylinder piston in

eddieleephd

I would actually suggest doing it the exact way as prescribed in that write up. i would say if it was brakes that you dis reguard it but since I can see what he is saying and the air may be in front of the bleed screw that you should just make sure that you do have a helper and the helper puts the bleed screw in and do not let out the rod what so ever otherwise you may get air back in. But if done that way there is less likely hood of air getting the line.

theAuthority

v8 archies, woot !

I had an '86 fiero that had some of his custom parts on it.

I was really wanting the widebody kit and chop top ... would look awesome then.

One_96TR4

If it's still giving you issues I'd bet it's the MC. I had my MC die and do exactly what you describe in the 1st post. I put in an aftermarket replacement and its been good since. But once in a while you get a dud.