maddmatt02

ok, first off, I am sorry if any of you are being bothered by my MANY questions I am asking. anyways, all of the height I wasnt isnt for off road, I will for sure do some wheeling but some of the desire for a huge rig is the great american idea of bigger is better!

now I have a old stick welder and we should have 220 to it as soon as we have good use for it, and I have acces to a mig, and I know a guy who has a stick at his house and is the head welder at nichols boat builders on whidbey island, they are the company that just launched the first cruise ship built in the US in many years, the one where the launch was almost a disaster cuz a brake broke free, that really has nothing to do with this thread but I thought it mgiht help you rememebr the company if you heard it on the news or something. anyways I could get him to help me do this stuff, and I have taken metals and am pretty good wiht the stick and decent with the wire-feed. anyways I was wondering if I got a older toyota straight axle, and fabbed the leaf mounts front and rear, but had a driveline to work to before I mounted the axle, is there any driveline that I could get that would work without any mods to the T case/front axle/driveline, like an older straight axle toyota front DL, or another manufacturers driveline, and then I could mount it al working form the drivelines lenght? also anyone whos done it how much is a custom length driveline? I know I could make the leaf mounts, the steering tierod (thats the one from hub to hub right, mounting points never pivot, just moves with axle) and the drag link is the one that goes from one hub to the steering arm? could probably make that too just gotta find tie-rod ends somewhere that can pivot for the suspension flex. I can make the shock hoops, I can rig up the u-bolts. steering stibilzer can be made just using a standard shock, thats pretty much all it is right? brakelines I could get from some auto store, and the bumpstops I could get from autozone or wherever as well and can fab up the mounts for them. about the wheel spacers that comes with the kit from all pro off road, I could just get a different offset rim.

now what would I do for brakes themselves, is the only option stock calipers on landcruiser rotors?

pretty much I am wondering if I can do the SAS by making everything myself (with the boat builders help) for about the same price, a little more than the cost of a nice 4" lift? because I want even more than that, like maybe 7 inches when doing the SAS and then a 2 inch body lift, then I could fit some 35's maybe 36's with NO problem plus youd need a ladder to get into my runner.

and then on the rear, would it be acceptable to get the 5.5 inch longer coils shown here along with the 2.25" spacers. or do those not work on the 90-95 style runners, it doesnt say the years.

http://www.allprooffroad.com/coilrear.html

for 300 bucks it is almost 8 inches of lift, or would it be better to use the stock axle and weld on some plates and swap the rear to leafs as well.(and angle diff up a bit so driveline isnt extremely angled)

I could do the pan hard rod drop also, and I know I need new shocks all 4 corners to go along with this. and I know this is alot of lift, so if it is not really doable without a lot of driveline work then just say so, maybe something like 5 inch SAS lift, spacers and gotta be 3" coils out there. (BL still but that dont affect the drivelines.

thanks

85runner

If the axle is in the stock location, a stock driveshaft will work. IFS t-cases and flanges are essentially the same.



$150-250. I lengthened mine for $5 - the cost of the tube.



You can shorten a stock Tie Rod and use FJ80 TREs and a sky pitman adapter for a drag link.



Use F250 or F350 shock towers, they are $10 each



See www.pirate4x4.com/forum in the toyota FAQ for brake line extensions and you will not need to fab new mounts




I had US Wheel make 2" backspaced wheels, $25ea



That is the best option. Of course you could run stock straight axle brakes but they are weaker.



They seem to cost about $1500-2500 depending on the deals you get. Of course you could do it way cheaper...



Too High to wheel. I have 3.5-4" with 35's and trimmed fenders. Body lifts suck. The idea is stay as low as possible with the biggest tires you can run. Do a 5" with 36's.

85runner

Oh yeah, search ALOT on www.pirate4x4.com/forum and you'll learn all you need to know.

maddmatt02

ok, do you know if those 5.5in coils that say for 4runners fir the 2nd gen runners? and if i got landcruiser rotors, the stock front calipers will bolt to what? the older yota trucks came with front discs right? were they just smaller discs and less surface area smaller pads? or why are they weaker? and why would it be 1500-2500 if all the mounts were cutom made for only the price of the materials?

I am gonna go to pirate4x4 to lok aroudn too.

thanks for the link.

and I hear that it is too high for wheeling, but if I really wanted to get that high, is it possibole without severe stress on the driveline U joints? and how did you lengthen it for 5 bucks, what kind of pipe? was it hard to get it perfectly a straight line though when you added to it? I dont understand this.

Flygtenstein

Using the OME 860's or 863's that All Pro lists really are hitting the limits of heingh with stock geometry. I am leary of just lengthening the links, seems like 3" is the limit. I would advise against putting spacers on and getting even more lift.

Lots of SAS stuff can be made, like the hoops and the spring hanger. Springs can be conglomerated from the yard. Steering can be done if you know what you are doing, or it can be off the shelf.

Mikronized

I have the 860's just waiting to go on this monday...
Fly is right about stock limits though, you may even need to get your Dshaft lengthend just useing the 5.5 coils.. and don't put spacers on top of them, it will be just too tall and most 4runner spacers won't fit on 860's anyway, you'd have to buy FJ80 spacers.. Another thing is that once you have coils more then 6" high you run into alot of panhard angle issues, you will need both drop and raise brackets...

I guess if you're really set on having a runner that tall then go leafs.

check out Gibby's rig https://www.yotatech.com/forums/members/614.html for a 6" leaf set up..

OneTrickToy

[QUOTE=maddmatt02]ok, do you know if those 5.5in coils that say for 4runners fir the 2nd gen runners? and if i got landcruiser rotors, the stock front calipers will bolt to what? the older yota trucks came with front discs right? were they just smaller discs and less surface area smaller pads? QUOTE]

What he was saying, is to use your current calipers, not the ones off the solid axle..

maddmatt02

ok, so those 5.5 coils will work on the runner, and no spacers o top of them, thats still lots of lift I think, so no problem. and the panhardrod drop/lift is no problem, was thikning about leafing the rear since the straight axle is already there and only thing needed to be done is the leafs/mounts, correct, besides maybe some brake line work or hatever small stiff like that might need to be done. I will PM him I guess and ask him if he could shoot me some pics of his suspension setups. I went to his site and the suspension link sends me to msn.com and the engine link sends me over to yahoo.com

and if 5.5" needs a longer driveline, how do you lengthen it for 5 bucks wiht pipe?

85runner

Pay to have your rear shaft lengthened/balanced. The front, on the other hand, doesn't really need to be balanced....I don't go over 35 in 4wd. I just sleeved my d-shaft.

maddmatt02

when not in 4WD, arnt the axles/diff/drivline still spinning and it just isnt linked to power in the TC,

85runner

When you get a straight axle you will have manual hubs so no, it won't be spinning.

Before performing the SAS, do lots of research so you are familiar with the truck, including the drivetrain characteristics. I would say that you should not jump in to this right away or you will have problems. Research TONS. If you are just trying to make the truck high, do a cheesey IFS lift and leave it at that.

maddmatt02

well, I want it high and capable. I was wondering about that because I wanted ot be locked in the front but I did NOT want an automatic ratcheting type up front and didnt really wanna spend the 80 bucks to get an ARB up front, now I can just get the detroit EZ locker front and rear since it wont be doing anything while I am driving in 2WD.

also, I wanna get the dual transfer case adapter but then id have to have the adapter for the 4 cyl case to my trans, and 2 extra cases along with the adapter, you know of any kits that is an adapter that will allow a 2nd V6 case to bolt to the stock case in the V6 runner? or just a set of LOW gears you can put into the stock case, like 4.7:1. I would like to have the dual case to get to like 150:1 or something so that I dont have to use the clutch much on trails and wear it out hella quick.

maddmatt02

also, when you buy the old axle from the junk yard as long as I find one with the inner axles and hubs and everything then all i would need for the 4WD part would be the drivelien and the gears to match my rear end?

85runner

My Crawl ratio is 108:1 with a w56 trans, 5.29's, and two stock 2.28: t-cases. I would not waste the money on the v6 case - I think they are all chain driven. Marlin may make 4.7:1's for your case. Check www.marlincrawler.com

85runner

If your rear has 4:10's the gears will match. Yes, all you'd need is the d-shaft. What year truck are you working with? Some Tacos have the front d-shaft output on the wrong side. In that case you will need to run a d44 with a driver's side differential.

maddmatt02

ok, I did know I would need the front gears because I am gonna have 5.29's in the rear to push my moster tires, just didnt think of it right htne for some reason. but this will be on a 4 runner for sure, and it will be a early 90's for sure, and no older than a 90

so your first gear is 3.93???

is the W56 the stock v6 trans?

I was thinking the first gear was 3.83 for soem reason.

I wanna have 1 with stock gears and one with the 4.70's. I think it will be cool to have the engine at about 2k crawling in first gear and having my tire turning once every 6 seconds, I could just let it idle and crawl over everything.

when you have both cases in low, and are letting it idle how steep an incline will it go up without dying? I ask cuz I am sure youve tried it, its the first thing Id go do after I got both my cases in

85runner

I have 3.95 first gear


T-case info:
code:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Year Model Application Model Speeds Splines 1st Gear Engine Transfer Case
1979-1980 Carb L43 4sp 21 spline 3.67 4cyl 20R Gear driven Top Shift
1981-1983 Carb L45 4sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1981-1983 Carb L50 & L52 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1984-1986 Carb G52 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1986-1988 Carb G54 5sp 21 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1986-1987 EFITurbo R151F 5sp 23 spline 4.31 4cyl 22RTE Gear driven Forward Shift
1985-1988 EFI W56 5sp 21 spline 3.95 4cyl 22R Gear driven Top Shift
1988-1991 EFI R150F 5sp 23 spline 3.83 V6 3.0L Chain driven Forward Shift
1989-1995 EFI W56 5sp 21 spline 3.95 4cyl 22R Gear driven Forward Shift
1989-1995 EFI/ADD G58 5sp 26 spline 3.93 4cyl 22R Chain driven Forward Shift
1996-2002 EFI W59 5sp 23 spline ?.?? 4cyl 2.7L Chain driven Top Shift
1996-2002 EFI R150F 5sp 23 spline 3.83 V6 3.4L Chain driven Forward Shift


Trans info:
Pickup and 4Runner Transmissions with 1st gear ratios.
L43 4 speed 79 - 80 3.67
L45 4 speed 81 - 82 3.93
L50 5 speed 81 - 82 3.93
L52 5 speed 83 3.93
G52 & G54 5 speed 84 - 88 (Carb) 3.93
W56 5 speed 85 - 95 (EFI) 3.95 Manual Hub Equipped Vehicles 89 and up Have W56, 89 and up ADD vehicles have G58.
R151F 5 speed 86 - 87 (turbo only) 4.31
G58 5 speed 89 - 95 3.93 ADD Equipped Vehicles
R150F (6 cyl) 5 speed 88+ 3.83


All the info you ever need and more is here: snakepants dancer

maddmatt02

ok, so I was right about the gear I will have at least. so you got the 22r then?