NCSU-4runner

ok so im putting my new sway a ways on today, passenger side one goes on like a glove, 20 min tops to completely replace it. driver side is being a huuuuge bitch to get off. as i loosened the bolt in the rear it became progressively harder to turn and eventually siezed up completely, now it will not rotate in either direction. i put an extender on the ratchet to get more torque on the bolt but now i think the top nut is stripped. any ideas on what i should do? im considering putting the wheels back on and limping it to the nearest mechanics place and getting someone to cut the bolt off but i dont know if they can do that becuase of how the bolt is housed inside its surroundings. UGH, i dont get how one could come off so easy and the other one completely ruin my day. HELP ME PLEEEEASE :pat:

JSB

If the head of the bolt is stripped, maybe you could use some vice grips, and lock down on that baby. It's gotta come out. Throw some WD-40 on it and keep at it. Don't give up now. Good Luck!

Churnd

Here's what you can do:
[list=1][*]Get a longer breaker bar and keep at it until it comes loose[*]Torch it off[*]Get a grinder and cut the bolt off[/list=1]

I'm pretty sure no matter what you do you're gonna have a ruined bolt. Go to the local dealership and take the old one with you (or what's left of it) and tell them you want another one. Don't panic because this is nothing you can't fix yourself. A new bolt will cost you about $10 compared to who knows how much a mechanic would charge for the whole deal.

Victor

Those bolts freezing up is pretty common. Do whatever it takes to get it off - heat, breaker bar, sawzall on the head of the bolt on the top - whatever. The replacement bolt is like $6 at the dealer. The part #s are:
year, Bolt, Nut, Lock-Nut
86-88 90101-12104, 90170-12025, 90170-12004
88-95 90101-12159, 90179-12074,

notice that you only need the locknut if you have an 86-88

NCSU-4runner

ok well its been one helluva time getting that damn bolt off but the new SAWs are finally in, i tried using an breaker bar but because the nut was already stripped at the top that did no good, so i limped it down to the local muffler store this morning and had them torch the bolt into three pieces so i could get it out.

man i need a 4point lift and air tools and a torch , life would be so much easier than using jack stands and cinder blocks

Victor

Dude don't ever use cinder blocks! They will shatter on you. Take 4x4 pieces of wood and stack them. We call it cribbing in the fire service and it is a hell of a lot safer than cinder blocks. $20 will buy you a set of 6 ton jackstands at harbor freight and $40 will buy you a 3 1/4 ton hydraulic jack (a big one). Don't compromise your safety - I'll buy a cheap tool before I resort to working under a truck with no safe support.

NCSU-4runner

what i was using wasnt "cinder blocks" in the construction sense, they were solid pieces of concrete, not the kind with holes in it, they are real solid, i wouldnt worry about them breaking, and i have a set of jack stands that i use under the frame for added protection. anyway thanks for the concern, safety is definetly ALWAYS the first priority. Im just glad to have the SAWs in and be able to drive the car again, now im just waiting on my shipment from downey to get in sometime this week with my new springs/spacer/shocks and ill be ready for some serious wheelin

Victor

Sounds great. I just felt alarmed when I read cinder block. Ask me about the guy I made under the car - we pulled him out and his chest was so crushed I think his sternum was resting on his spine. Yes....he was dead.