FireMan

Does anyone know how to remove the CAM sprockets? In the manuals, there is an SST, but the dealer by me said there was a hole you thread a bolt into that holds the cams. This is also keeps them from unloading. Does anyone know what this means. I have a blown head gasket, and this is the only thing stopping me fomr getting them off. Thanks!

86toyota

I assume you mean the 3.0L. and you can't break loose the bolt... When I did my friends,( and since we replaced the T. belt)I cut the old T.B. to wrap around the pulley, then used a chain vise grip to hold it. Also had to use some cheater pipes on the rachet and vise grips. After the bolt came off, the cam pulley then slid off.

JohnStra

I have a tool to hold the pulley now (http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sp96800.html), but when I had to get mine off last I put a big crescent wrench on the camshaft and blocked it with a piece of wood. With that done I was able to muscle the bolt off without any problem. I recommend getting the tool that holds the pulley though because the method I used puts a lot of torque on the camshaft and a lot of stress on the bearing caps and bolts.

FireMan

Thanks for the link to the tool site. I'm gonna post some pics of the progress so far. I am getting really tempted to get headers, better ALT, etc. etc. now that I have the engine ripped apart.
I would be doing the 3.4 swap, but I have an AUTO 4wd, and ORS says that I would need to get a newer trany, transfer case, and adapter.

Do any of you guys know of "decent" junk yards in the San Diego area where I might be able to find the whole enchilada?

miket223

You don't need to remove the cam sprockets to get the heads off. Forget replacing the cam seals if that what you're trying to do, they rarely leak.

86toyota

I thought the only way to take the heads off one at a time the pulleys have to be removed to get to that tin shield behind them which links them together.....that's if my memory stands correct.

miket223

When you remove the heads leave the exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe attached to the heads. Only undo the downpipe which can be accessed easily from under the vehicle's LH side. The heads can be pulled off the engine block as a pair with the exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe still attached. When dropping the pair of heads back down on the engine a rubber mallet and an extra pair of hands may come in handy to clear all the straggling hoses and wires that may be lingering. Any caution spent on being careful about dropping the heads back down as a pair will surely save you 30 minutes of knuckle busting wrenching that you'd otherwise be doing if you were to drop each head back down on the block individually and then reattach all of the exhaust items.

Michael

86toyota

Wow ,wish I would of tried that on my friends truck a year ago. Still must be a real bitch lifting out( weight wise) It really did suck pulling off the manifolds. Next time I'll try that.

FireMan

The cam seal look Aok. If I dont need to remove the sprockets, how do I take off the No. 3 Timming Belt Cover?

Sorry I didn't say so before. It is a 95' 4Runner V6 3.slow.
Automatic.

Thanks for the quick responses guys.

miket223

Don't, leave it attached. Read my post above about removing the heads off as a pair still attached to the exhaust crossover pipe and no. 3 timing cover.

Michael

FireMan

Ok, I Get it. What if I need one to be machined/surfaced though?

miket223

Even when they blow headgaskets they rarely need machining. I'd say 1/15 that come through the shop ever need the head shaved. But, if they do need machining it's still easies to take them off as a pair and then seperate them off the truck cuz of the wonderful x-over pipe and exhaust manifolds.

FireMan

How hard is it to take the bolts out?
I only have a big breaker bar, and it dosn't fit into the head in some places because the cam is in the way.

JohnStra

I think the camshafts have to be removed to get to the bolts. I like the idea of removing the heads together and leaving all the exhaust goop connected, but I think the cams will have to be out of the way. I know I don't have a tool to squirm up under the cams.

FireMan

Without taking the cam sprockets off, I dont/cant see any way to get the no 3 timing cover off. I like the idea of leaving them together and not taking out the cam/s.

Than again, I think I will get some work done on them, port and polish, etc. Still, I NEED TO GET THESE OFF!!!!!.

I've been at this project now for 5+ days, just because of these sprockets. I hope my tool comes soon

miket223

Use a 3/8" extension, preferably locking so that the socket doesn't fall off the end and land in the oil pan far from the reach of any magnet. Take all the headbolts that can come out off but there are several that won't make it past the cam. Use a wedge of wood or some small object that can hold the head bolt up as high as possible. There are two or 3 headbolts that can be wedged up by rotating the camshaft and this will hold them up. By holding these unremovable headbolts up as high as possible that will clear the top of the block's deck when you lift the heads off the engine. Don't forget about the 2 loner bolts at the RR and LF that are a 6-pt 14-mm.

Michael

FireMan

Well, went at it, I I broke/twisted my 3/8 extension. This is starting to get old. This is the first time up loading pics. Enojoy.

http://community.webshots.com/script...umID=126932257 :pat:

miket223

A craftsman impact grade 3/8" extension is fairly cheap and holds up great to the head bolt removal nightmare. Unless you're sporting one of the elite grade tool brands already(I know I'm not), I'd suggest picking up one of those craftsman extensions.

FireMan

Yeah, it's a Craftsman. Its about 10+ yrs old though, so I'll see if I can break my old one.

FireMan

I mean new one