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Help! Front hub removal...

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Old 04-22-2003, 07:36 PM
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Help! Front hub removal...

I just bought an '86 4x4 truck that needs front brakes bad. The pads are toast and rotors are seriously gouged.
I'm trying to disassemble the front hubs to get the rotor off, and I'm stuck. I got the caliper off (nearly gave myself a hernia) and got the outer plastic part of the manual hub off, but the next step is the hub body which is held on with cone washers, lock washers and nuts. The nuts and washers came off easily, but the cone washers are totally stuck in the hub!
How do you get these off? I've used about a gallon of PBblaster and pliers, chisels, screwdrivers, both on the cone washers and the hub boby.
Any advice is very appreciated. Thanks.
Old 04-22-2003, 07:50 PM
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You need a brass drift. With a hammer and the drift tap on the 'seam' in each cone. This link http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/
should have all the info you need.

Nathan
Old 04-22-2003, 07:51 PM
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hubs

As some one that is very much up on installation/removal of Aisin freewheel hubs - I can't get mine to freewheel after I took them apart. Let me say this:
Go to the tech section and read the posting on Aisin hub installation/coversion.
You can also type "Aisin hubs" in your address line and explorer will provide listings to read about removal/rebuilding/replacing hubs.

Good Luck
Don C.
Old 04-22-2003, 09:35 PM
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Originally posted by growinseed
You need a brass drift. With a hammer and the drift tap on the 'seam' in each cone. This link http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/
should have all the info you need.

Nathan
It's much easier than that. Take a hammer and hit the outside of the hub a couple of times and the cones washers will just pop right out.
Old 04-23-2003, 12:13 AM
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If you do that you'll damage the outer hub cause its only aluminium. Its ok on th ADD hubs as they're steel, so use the drift.
Old 04-23-2003, 04:56 AM
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Let me see if I have this straight, you're worried about a nick on the aluminum hub, but you take the rig offroad???

If you don't crack on the hub with all your might, you WILL NOT damage the hub AND if you look at the hubs, with the cover on it, you can barely see the front of the aluminum body, it at all. I've had mine off a couple of dozen times and noone has every said to me, "Man, are your hubs ever a mess from hammering on the side to get those cone washers out."

OK, I'm done being a smart ass but it is kind of a reality check. How much time is it worth, to "drift" away at the cone washer in the hopes of getting them out without damage vs getting them all out in about 30 seconds with a couple of raps on the aluminum body right beside the cone washer. To me, getting this out quickly is more important (with the risk of a bit of cosemetic damage that is virtually hidden anyway), than spending lots of time messing around with a drift to get them out that way.

Just my personal opinion. And BTW, (I'm making an assumption that this vehicle is used off road) someone who wheels their rig and is worried about a little flat spot on thier aluminum, shouldn't wheel their rig. Again, just my opinion though, take it for what it's worth.
Old 04-23-2003, 06:10 AM
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Got a brass hammer?? The easiest way I found.... put the nuts back on the studs. Turn them til the edge of the nut and the stud are flush. Take a brass hammer and rap ea. stud about 5-6 times in a "star" around the wheel.
VIOLA! the cone washers are loose! (trust me..... )
Old 04-23-2003, 06:15 AM
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If that works, that's a good trick. I'll try that next time. A little late to save my pretty hubs, but what the heck!
Old 04-23-2003, 06:55 PM
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Thank you all for your help!
I had spent yesterday afternoon trying the tapping/brass drift method, and the cones did not budge at all. That's when I posted here. I went back today with my BFH and after a few good whacks, they popped right off! I'm not worried about the cosmetics of the aluminum, I just didn't know it was "ok" to bash on it to get it off yesterday.
I had to smack 'em pretty hard, however. (RUSTY!). On of the bots holes in the aluminum where the cap screws in is now an oval shape, but that's all right, I'll just run a tap through it, and file the surface flat.
Thanks again!
Old 04-23-2003, 07:04 PM
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Anti-seize when re-installing makes it less of a problem later...

I spent 4 hours in the snow pulling some hubs just to get the first cone washer to go. Then they started to go like popcorn. A rubber mallet to the side of the hib and a screw driver in the slot of the washer help as well.
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