HELP! CV/Snapring question
#1
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HELP! CV/Snapring question
Okay, think I've got a bad CV axle, which I rebuilt this summer. At any rate, I'm planning on swapping it out with my spare offroading replacement. When replacing the whole thing, will it just slide right out of the diff, snap-ring and all? I left the "cup" and inner shaft in place when I rebuilt the cv's, so I've not seen how the snap ring fits in/out to hold the inner shaft (stub shaft) in place.
When people replace the whole shaft, do they typically leave the tripod joint in place, and just cut the clamp off the inner cv boot, slide new axle in place, reattach inner boot, and put new clamp on?
Thanks!
When people replace the whole shaft, do they typically leave the tripod joint in place, and just cut the clamp off the inner cv boot, slide new axle in place, reattach inner boot, and put new clamp on?
Thanks!
Last edited by Mad Chemist; 02-15-2005 at 06:58 PM.
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dunno if its the same on the 3rd gen, but on the 2nd gen you unscrew 6 bolts from the cup, pull that off, pop the snap ring and slide off a spacer, and then slide the cv out
#4
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I think you're talking about half-shafts. Yes they will pop right out. A pry bar helps. I have had them stick before. Then you have to disassemble the CV joint, drill a hole through the cup and put a bolt through and attach a slide hammer. But 99% pop right out. Invest in a service manual.
-Wrench
-Wrench
Last edited by wrenchmonster; 02-15-2005 at 08:08 PM.
#5
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I guess what threw me off was that snap ring on the portion of the shaft that sticks into the diff. That ring holds the cv shaft tight against the diff and prevents diff gear oil from leaking out, so I wasn't sure if I could just tug on it and get it to pop out or not.
Thanks for the help guys!
Thanks for the help guys!
#6
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David,
Coming out usually isn't the problem. During my diff swap, putting it back in was kind of a pain. The passenger side went in fine with hand pressure but the drivers side needed some pounding from a hammer and brass drift.
Coming out usually isn't the problem. During my diff swap, putting it back in was kind of a pain. The passenger side went in fine with hand pressure but the drivers side needed some pounding from a hammer and brass drift.
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Thanks for chiming in Lance- I don't want to be pounding it in and realize that I'm doing something wrong and break something. Knowing up front that it might need a little "convincing" helps.
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#8
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I believe the FSM calls for a brass drift. You lightly tap the inner edge of the inner joint and it will pop out. I have also used a pry bar and found it to work well. Be careful not to bend the dust seal. When going back together use a small dab of wheel bearing grease to hold the snap ring in the up position and it will go in easier.
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