L33T35T 4Runner

I started undoing the 4 12mm bolts on teh front disc brakes and the fluid came out! so i bolted thos back up. we got the brake pads out the top....

how do i get the main unit off to compress it?

help!!!!

:cry:

Gadget

If you are going to remove the rotor you will need to unbolt the caliper from the hub. on the back side you should find two large mounting bolts that bolt the caliper to the hub, undo those and the caliper will pull off of the rotor. Don' t let it hang from the brake hose.

You a wooden wedge to slowly push the pistons back into the caliper so you can get the new pads in. Do one side at a time.

You are going to have to bleed your brakes since you took your rotor apart. Don't do that again. I hope you did not displace the sealing O rings.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

AgRunner06

I don't know how much different Toyota brakes are. I always used a C-clamp on chevy brakes to depress the piston back into the caliper. It made it much easier.

Just a thought.

L33T35T 4Runner

oh ˟˟˟˟.... ya my brakes DO NOT WORK.. barely!! I'm gonna take it to pep boys tomorrow and just say fix it!!! I dont care how much it costs, it needs to be fixed.


pep boys or toyota?

HaveBlue

Can I make a recomendation?

First, try bleeding your brakes. Make sure the fluid in the resevoir is up to "full." That might also be why they "barely work."

Second, if you don't feel comfortable bleeding them yourself, have it towed to Pep Boys/Toyota/where ever.

solarcrew

:pat:First question-is that the only brake you took apart?If so,put it all back together,you can use the other side as a reference.Check the brake reservoir to make sure there is fluid in it.If its low,add some fluid.2nd ?-do you know where the bleed valve is on the brake you took apart?If so,slide a piece of tubing onto the bleed valve.Pour some brake fluid into a clear bottle.About an inch of fluid should do.It can be a soda or beer bottle.Put the other end of the tubing into the fluid in the bottle.Open the bleed valve just enough to see fluid coming out,you should see air bubbles mixed in with the fluid.If you have help,when you see most of the bubbles gone,tighten the bleed valve.Have your helper pump the brakes until they have pressure,when they feel tight,stop pumping and hold the pedal down with your foot.Open the valve again,the pedal will go to the floor but keep your foot on it and don't let it up until you retighten the valve.Repeat this until you don't see any more air coming into the bottle.This is very important,check the reservoir after each time you retighten the valve.You don't want it to run out.A safe bet is to keep it half to completely full while your're bleeding the brakes.If you don't have help,you can do this by yourself,just put the tube in the bottle of fluid,open bleed valve,put bottle where you can possibly see it.Pump the brake with your hand,do it until there's no bubbles coming into the bottle,then tighten valve.Pump the brakes until they feel tight.If they don't feel tight enough,repeat the process.Remember,don't let the reservoir get too low.Good Luck!

Gadget

A C-Clamp works great for the sliding type caliper where there is only a piston on one side. I am not sure about his year truck and what kind of caliper he has, but when he said he took them apart and fluid spilled all over that kind of indicates that he has the fixed caliper brakes and you are going to have a real hard time getting a C-Clamp in there. It was a great suggestion though.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

L33T35T 4Runner

I got them compressed easily.... First time we ended up taking the caliper off and compressed one side with a C-clamp.. but the other side, well stuff got in teh way (suspension). so i grabbed a plumbers wrench and some pliers and compressed it...

the second time we did it, i didnt even take caliper off. i got really lucky and compressed them. worked great! slid new brakes in there and put the pins in, walla!

but ya... im just gonna drive it to pep boys tomorrow (its still driveable...) and have them take care of it

Gadget

Bleed the brakes and consider the job done.

I always say that you can learn more from your mistakes then your successes. I have made a lot of mistakes in my life. With my current rate of making mistakes I figure that by 2010 I will be the smartest man on the planet...

You did good and you learned today. Be proud of yourself.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

L33T35T 4Runner

Do you know where i can get step by step directions for bleeding brakes? Id rather just pay somebody to do it...

I wish i would have paid 109 bucks at toyota to do the job... :mad:

L33T35T 4Runner

Oh ya, i ended up buying the 18.99 pads from pep boys

Gadget

http://www.gadgetonline.com/BrakeFlush.htm

channer

Not sure if you are changing the rotors or not, but there aren't any bolts to remove if you are only doing a pad swap. (Except lug nuts of course.)

Obviously it is too late for that.

There is a spring retaining the two pins, and an anti-rattle spring that piggy-backs onto the pins.

I don't remember any 12mm bolts at all, and i changed the rotors.

The rotor-hub bolts were 14mm as I remember, and the caliper to torque plate were 17mm.

Are the 12mm bolts the ones that hold the two sides of the caliper together?

jamesremus

I have an 89 4runner with v6 and auto transmission. I only have a hard time when im at highway speeds and theres a slight incline. I'm debating between going with a 4.88 or 5.13 gear set up. I am also planning on eventually putting 35's on it , I am currently running 33's. anyone have any advise?

jamesremus

ggjjhgfgh

midiwall

wow... ummm.. you're not going to get any responses by burying a question like this at the end of someone else's thread.

You need to start a new thread, in a proper section.

Something in here should work well:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f60/

MTL_4runner

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testing 1, 2, 3....