hello everyone i need help tuning
02-20-2014, 03:42 PM
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hello everyone i need help tuning
i am new to tuning and boost.
i have a 99 taco 5vzfe 4wd supercharged
i installed a urd calibration unit
and a lm-2 wide-band scanner with the obdii cord
i am having difficulties finding my open/ closed loop info and my fuel trims so i can start tuning.
any help on navigating the software would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance
i have a 99 taco 5vzfe 4wd supercharged
i installed a urd calibration unit
and a lm-2 wide-band scanner with the obdii cord
i am having difficulties finding my open/ closed loop info and my fuel trims so i can start tuning.
any help on navigating the software would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance
02-21-2014, 02:55 AM
#2
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Honestly the open/closed loop info doesn't play a massive role in the tuning of the 7th injector.
It will simply explain why you can't richen it up until a certain point. Although the closed loop switch will be in the OBDII stream, each scanner is different so just look though it to find which one it is on yours.
What you basically want to do with the 7th injector is adjust the fuel map on the 7th so that the AFR's stay in the high 11's across the RPM range.
The timing map you can either leave at zero or take a little out, it really doesn't do much at all honestly and is not worth worrying about unless you are getting knock IMO. A good rule of thumb is 1 degree of timing per psi to start out with.
It will simply explain why you can't richen it up until a certain point. Although the closed loop switch will be in the OBDII stream, each scanner is different so just look though it to find which one it is on yours.
What you basically want to do with the 7th injector is adjust the fuel map on the 7th so that the AFR's stay in the high 11's across the RPM range.
The timing map you can either leave at zero or take a little out, it really doesn't do much at all honestly and is not worth worrying about unless you are getting knock IMO. A good rule of thumb is 1 degree of timing per psi to start out with.
02-21-2014, 08:22 AM
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its my fault that i didnt mention that i do not have 7th injector kit. just the supercharger.
it was on the truck when i bought it and this is the first vehicle that ive had with any sort of modification like this.
after researching i found that the noise i was hearing was called pinging or knock. i couldnt afford to get the calibration unit and other stuff along with the 7th kit so i am trying to work without the kit and reduce the knock as best i can by tuning the fuel map A and then map B. but have had zero luck thus far.
your advice in the forum said for every psi of boost. i dont know how much boost i am running. my new boost gauge rarely gets above 0. its got the urd 2.1 pulley because urd said its for high altitudes and i live right around 8000
the chattering noise had gotten worse before the pulley and has had no change since. the calibration unit didnt come with a pre installed map so i followed the instructions and set them all to the neutral 10 in map A in the split second software but without seeing the fuel trims according to the instructions i cannot proceed with tuning. my truck fluctuates at idle now from 900 to 1200 just up and down and up and down.
the p/o was a piece of trash and did not take care of this truck. i already had to have the transmission and t-case rebuilt.
i apologize for rambling but i wanted everyone to have some background info just in case it was needed or helpful.
it was on the truck when i bought it and this is the first vehicle that ive had with any sort of modification like this.
after researching i found that the noise i was hearing was called pinging or knock. i couldnt afford to get the calibration unit and other stuff along with the 7th kit so i am trying to work without the kit and reduce the knock as best i can by tuning the fuel map A and then map B. but have had zero luck thus far.
your advice in the forum said for every psi of boost. i dont know how much boost i am running. my new boost gauge rarely gets above 0. its got the urd 2.1 pulley because urd said its for high altitudes and i live right around 8000
the chattering noise had gotten worse before the pulley and has had no change since. the calibration unit didnt come with a pre installed map so i followed the instructions and set them all to the neutral 10 in map A in the split second software but without seeing the fuel trims according to the instructions i cannot proceed with tuning. my truck fluctuates at idle now from 900 to 1200 just up and down and up and down.
the p/o was a piece of trash and did not take care of this truck. i already had to have the transmission and t-case rebuilt.
i apologize for rambling but i wanted everyone to have some background info just in case it was needed or helpful.
02-21-2014, 08:51 AM
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Sounds like the first thing you need to do is take inventory. See what the P/O installed that you may not know about. The URD kit moves up in injector size to a 318cc, has a higher flowing fuel pump, and two steps cooler spark plugs....really may be needed. If all this is on the truck then you can probably talk Gadget at URD out a starting map for the piggy back.
The 2.1 inch pulley is their most aggressive so I'm sure you are running really lean. Try to stay out of boost as much as possible until you can get a wideband O2 on it and check. The chattering you hear and the fact your boost gauge is showing zero make me think that there is something wrong with your vacuum bypass valve. You can find some good youtube videos on how to check the valve, but if that gets fixed before you have the ability to check AFR and add fuel you may just be causing more stress to your motor. The 5vz is a tank - but a 2.1 with an incorrect map would not be good even short term. I'd send you my map but I'm at sea level, with the 2.2 inch pulley, and I have meth injection above 3psi.....
This unfortunately is a problem that you may have to throw money at.
The 2.1 inch pulley is their most aggressive so I'm sure you are running really lean. Try to stay out of boost as much as possible until you can get a wideband O2 on it and check. The chattering you hear and the fact your boost gauge is showing zero make me think that there is something wrong with your vacuum bypass valve. You can find some good youtube videos on how to check the valve, but if that gets fixed before you have the ability to check AFR and add fuel you may just be causing more stress to your motor. The 5vz is a tank - but a 2.1 with an incorrect map would not be good even short term. I'd send you my map but I'm at sea level, with the 2.2 inch pulley, and I have meth injection above 3psi.....
This unfortunately is a problem that you may have to throw money at.
02-21-2014, 09:28 AM
#5
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A video would help as the supercharger itself can have some "funny" sounds that people are not used to.
If it is indeed knocking then like said stay out of boost and figure out why it is knocking.
It running lean is my first guess as well, you will need to adjust the tune to both add fuel and remove timing where you hear knocking and a bit beyond.
You want to aim for mid-high 11:1 AFR's at WOT across the rev range.
Read the manual for the software a few times as the FTC stuff is the worst software I have had to deal with to date.
If it is indeed knocking then like said stay out of boost and figure out why it is knocking.
It running lean is my first guess as well, you will need to adjust the tune to both add fuel and remove timing where you hear knocking and a bit beyond.
You want to aim for mid-high 11:1 AFR's at WOT across the rev range.
Read the manual for the software a few times as the FTC stuff is the worst software I have had to deal with to date.
02-21-2014, 09:40 AM
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The previous owner stuff adds a lot more complication IMO. You will probably need to find the vacuum diagram for your generation of supercharger and make sure they are run properly and have no leaks. Same with the gasket for the intake. You should be able to find installation instructions by searching yotatech.
TA is correct, the FTC software sucks to tune. If you have a first gen S/C (grey) they do tend to rattle more then the second gen (black).
TA is correct, the FTC software sucks to tune. If you have a first gen S/C (grey) they do tend to rattle more then the second gen (black).
02-21-2014, 04:18 PM
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thank you for the response!
i do have a wide band on there. it is the innovate lm-2 but sadly i dont exactly know what its supposed to be reading if im running lean.
i put in colder iridium plugs and a 170 therm 6ish months ago along with a new copper core radiator because the p/o used an epoxy to hide the leak coming from the lower plastic tank. at that time my cylinder compression was running 155 on cyc 1 and the rest were 150 which i think is normal good range. i think?
the p/o owner also put a 6" k/n cone intake on it (not sure if this is needed info)
i will look at youtube tonight for vids on the bypass valve. thank you for the advice!
i keep my rpms below 2000 when i do drive it (which isnt often) i noticed above 2000 is when it knocks the most. and shifting from 1st to 2nd.
i do have a wide band on there. it is the innovate lm-2 but sadly i dont exactly know what its supposed to be reading if im running lean.
i put in colder iridium plugs and a 170 therm 6ish months ago along with a new copper core radiator because the p/o used an epoxy to hide the leak coming from the lower plastic tank. at that time my cylinder compression was running 155 on cyc 1 and the rest were 150 which i think is normal good range. i think?
the p/o owner also put a 6" k/n cone intake on it (not sure if this is needed info)
i will look at youtube tonight for vids on the bypass valve. thank you for the advice!
i keep my rpms below 2000 when i do drive it (which isnt often) i noticed above 2000 is when it knocks the most. and shifting from 1st to 2nd.
Sounds like the first thing you need to do is take inventory. See what the P/O installed that you may not know about. The URD kit moves up in injector size to a 318cc, has a higher flowing fuel pump, and two steps cooler spark plugs....really may be needed. If all this is on the truck then you can probably talk Gadget at URD out a starting map for the piggy back.
The 2.1 inch pulley is their most aggressive so I'm sure you are running really lean. Try to stay out of boost as much as possible until you can get a wideband O2 on it and check. The chattering you hear and the fact your boost gauge is showing zero make me think that there is something wrong with your vacuum bypass valve. You can find some good youtube videos on how to check the valve, but if that gets fixed before you have the ability to check AFR and add fuel you may just be causing more stress to your motor. The 5vz is a tank - but a 2.1 with an incorrect map would not be good even short term. I'd send you my map but I'm at sea level, with the 2.2 inch pulley, and I have meth injection above 3psi.....
This unfortunately is a problem that you may have to throw money at.
The 2.1 inch pulley is their most aggressive so I'm sure you are running really lean. Try to stay out of boost as much as possible until you can get a wideband O2 on it and check. The chattering you hear and the fact your boost gauge is showing zero make me think that there is something wrong with your vacuum bypass valve. You can find some good youtube videos on how to check the valve, but if that gets fixed before you have the ability to check AFR and add fuel you may just be causing more stress to your motor. The 5vz is a tank - but a 2.1 with an incorrect map would not be good even short term. I'd send you my map but I'm at sea level, with the 2.2 inch pulley, and I have meth injection above 3psi.....
This unfortunately is a problem that you may have to throw money at.
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02-21-2014, 04:21 PM
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The previous owner stuff adds a lot more complication IMO. You will probably need to find the vacuum diagram for your generation of supercharger and make sure they are run properly and have no leaks. Same with the gasket for the intake. You should be able to find installation instructions by searching yotatech.
TA is correct, the FTC software sucks to tune. If you have a first gen S/C (grey) they do tend to rattle more then the second gen (black).
TA is correct, the FTC software sucks to tune. If you have a first gen S/C (grey) they do tend to rattle more then the second gen (black).
i have the black 2nd gen one
02-22-2014, 05:37 PM
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Not sure if you have this??? Helps a bunch if now including vacuum diagrams:
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamo...4LSCInstal.pdf
And here is a good one for tuning basics:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/u-tune-aic.pdf
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamo...4LSCInstal.pdf
And here is a good one for tuning basics:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/u-tune-aic.pdf
04-12-2014, 11:41 AM
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ok so i took out the urd calibration unit. and now have an aem fic. i also had the supercharger rebuilt.
before removing the supercharger i checked the bypass valve and it was slowly losing its vac ability so i purchased a new one.
got the supercharger back a couple days ago. i got it back on this morning along with the new bypass. i hooked up the lines i had to the way the trd install guide i said to for my truck and it wouldnt start, i mean it would turn over but immediately die. i looked at the pics i took before and saw that the two vac ports coming off the driver side on the sc were reversed according to trd. (in the pics i took) the back port (closest to the firewall) was hooked up to the evap and the front one was hooked up to the brake boost. according to trd it is supposed to be the other way around. so i switched them to how they were before the rebuild and now it starts but not very easily, itll turn over every time but only rpm's up to 1500 1700 and then slowly dies. it will eventually stay started after 10 or so turns of the key.
*i should note that i also replaced the batt with a red top optima, replaced both o2 sensors with ngk's, psc power steering pump and a new genuine toyota tps (just in case the info is needed, more info is better than too little).
once it does stay at an idle i blip the throttle and the rpms drop like its gonna die. sometimes it does... but if i slightly/slowly press the accelerator it idles rough for a second but with continued slightly more pressure rpm's start to climb and smooths out. it seemed as though it was going away so i decided to take it for a casual cruise around the block.
it seemed to be okay til i got close to 2200 rpm and then i lose all acceleration and there is a weird whoosh kinda sound coming from the engine bay. i put the old tps back on and it still does it. it seems like a vac issue but i cannot figure out where it is.
i have not yet tried to tune with aem yet...
does anybody have any ideas?
before removing the supercharger i checked the bypass valve and it was slowly losing its vac ability so i purchased a new one.
got the supercharger back a couple days ago. i got it back on this morning along with the new bypass. i hooked up the lines i had to the way the trd install guide i said to for my truck and it wouldnt start, i mean it would turn over but immediately die. i looked at the pics i took before and saw that the two vac ports coming off the driver side on the sc were reversed according to trd. (in the pics i took) the back port (closest to the firewall) was hooked up to the evap and the front one was hooked up to the brake boost. according to trd it is supposed to be the other way around. so i switched them to how they were before the rebuild and now it starts but not very easily, itll turn over every time but only rpm's up to 1500 1700 and then slowly dies. it will eventually stay started after 10 or so turns of the key.
*i should note that i also replaced the batt with a red top optima, replaced both o2 sensors with ngk's, psc power steering pump and a new genuine toyota tps (just in case the info is needed, more info is better than too little).
once it does stay at an idle i blip the throttle and the rpms drop like its gonna die. sometimes it does... but if i slightly/slowly press the accelerator it idles rough for a second but with continued slightly more pressure rpm's start to climb and smooths out. it seemed as though it was going away so i decided to take it for a casual cruise around the block.
it seemed to be okay til i got close to 2200 rpm and then i lose all acceleration and there is a weird whoosh kinda sound coming from the engine bay. i put the old tps back on and it still does it. it seems like a vac issue but i cannot figure out where it is.
i have not yet tried to tune with aem yet...
does anybody have any ideas?
Last edited by roysome; 04-12-2014 at 11:44 AM.
04-12-2014, 12:35 PM
#12
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I would check the FIC and make sure it is reading all the sensors properly. It should have a test mode in there. Sounds a bit like the sensors are not reading right, possibly the MAF.
The MAF not reading will allow it to start but die shortly after.
There have been many reports of the FIC not playing nice with the toyota sensors without some adjustments and/or resistors.
The MAF not reading will allow it to start but die shortly after.
There have been many reports of the FIC not playing nice with the toyota sensors without some adjustments and/or resistors.
04-13-2014, 01:01 PM
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thanks TA!
i went through and clicked on all the menu options but i couldnt find a test option (i was hooked up to the fic with my laptop and the key in the on position) but i will call aem tomorrow to see if they can point me in the right direction with that.
but now today it wont stay at an idle no matter what i do... starts then dies, starts then dies. i took out and sprayed the maf sensor with carb cleaner but didnt seem to help at all.
i went through and clicked on all the menu options but i couldnt find a test option (i was hooked up to the fic with my laptop and the key in the on position) but i will call aem tomorrow to see if they can point me in the right direction with that.
but now today it wont stay at an idle no matter what i do... starts then dies, starts then dies. i took out and sprayed the maf sensor with carb cleaner but didnt seem to help at all.
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