Heavy duty sway bar
12-24-2003, 07:33 PM
#1
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Heavy duty sway bar
I just put a 4 inch suspention lift on my 1990 4runner and I noticed a lot of body roll. Where can I get a heavy duty sway bar for the front of my rig?
12-25-2003, 07:20 PM
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Addco is the strongest on the market. I had to do a project for my Management class in Banner Elk NC. We compared Addco bars to every other company. These bars are hard carbon steel, hardend and stress relieved. They make their own end links so they should be able to extend them to fit your application. This company is located 10 minutes from my school and a fellow classmate was the head accountant. I visited the small NC factory several times. If I was to use a swaybar, then I would definently use Addco.
Addco
I have a 37 page paper comparing Addco bars to other bars.
Addco
I have a 37 page paper comparing Addco bars to other bars.
Last edited by Hyperlite; 12-25-2003 at 07:22 PM.
12-30-2003, 06:58 AM
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Thanks Hyperlite,
I'm going for it. I'll do a search for them and contact them. Unless you have their web address. I realised thant cornering sucks with 4runners unless you convert the rear springs to leaf. The only way to do this is with a good sway bar. Yes it would be a great idea to incorperate a disconnect. I do not feel safe the way it is. I like to cruze fast around corners and I don't feel like putting a full roll cage around my rig. Thanks for the inforamtion and I would also like to see your research paper.
I'm going for it. I'll do a search for them and contact them. Unless you have their web address. I realised thant cornering sucks with 4runners unless you convert the rear springs to leaf. The only way to do this is with a good sway bar. Yes it would be a great idea to incorperate a disconnect. I do not feel safe the way it is. I like to cruze fast around corners and I don't feel like putting a full roll cage around my rig. Thanks for the inforamtion and I would also like to see your research paper.
12-30-2003, 10:46 AM
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Here is click and paste of the very rough draft of Installation:
Because most suspensions travel in arc, the use of a lift or supporting the vehicle by the frame and allowing the wheels to hang can cause bar misalignment and installation problems. The use of ramps or other devices such as hydraulic lifts that support the vehicle by the wheels is highly recommended for proper bar alignment and installation. In most cases many people say "This bar does not fit my car!" the problem is that a lift was used and the wheels were allowed to hang. When working on a suspension, the suspension must be at static ride height.
When installing kits on vehicles that were not equipped with original equipment bars or may be that it require holes to be drilled for hardware mounting. It is important that the bar be positioned so that the end-links are as close to vertical or perpendicular to its mounting points as possible. The end-links may lean or be bent as much as 20 degrees without adverse effects.
On some kits, the mid-section bracket must be mounted very close to the bends in the bar. This is acceptable as long as the bracket does not actually contact the bar itself and still allows the bar to pivot. Some kits for GM trailing arm rear suspension will not fit correctly when installed using the factory holes in the trailing arms these means that it is necessary to drill new holes. To make the installation on bars that require holes to be drilled the bar can be tied in position with rope while marking the vehicle for drilling.
On bars that have a rubber block bushing on the bar end instead of end-links the use of urethane bushings on the bars' ends are not recommended because of the binding effects in the ends of the bar.
On axle mount kits that use locking devices the assembly is tightened until the base plate deforms slightly or until there is approximately a 3/16" gap between the bottom of the locking device and the axle tube. This will help to prevent the chance of the assembly moving, sliding, rotating or slipping on the axle.
Take special care when messing with the bushings. For proper tightness of end-links and maximum bushing life the end-link nut should be tightened until you can no longer rotate the spacer by hand. Over-tightening end-links could result in bolt failure or if cross-threaded the product could be striped. Mid-section bushing bracket should not be allowed to squeeze the bar. Over tightened bushings will result in noisy bar and faster bushing wear. If curved or uneven frame surface causes the bracket to squeeze the "D" bushing onto the bar, the bracket should be shimmed up with a washer. Synthetic brake caliper grease can be used on tight fitting rubber bushings but the urethane mid-section bushings must be lubed.
Because most suspensions travel in arc, the use of a lift or supporting the vehicle by the frame and allowing the wheels to hang can cause bar misalignment and installation problems. The use of ramps or other devices such as hydraulic lifts that support the vehicle by the wheels is highly recommended for proper bar alignment and installation. In most cases many people say "This bar does not fit my car!" the problem is that a lift was used and the wheels were allowed to hang. When working on a suspension, the suspension must be at static ride height.
When installing kits on vehicles that were not equipped with original equipment bars or may be that it require holes to be drilled for hardware mounting. It is important that the bar be positioned so that the end-links are as close to vertical or perpendicular to its mounting points as possible. The end-links may lean or be bent as much as 20 degrees without adverse effects.
On some kits, the mid-section bracket must be mounted very close to the bends in the bar. This is acceptable as long as the bracket does not actually contact the bar itself and still allows the bar to pivot. Some kits for GM trailing arm rear suspension will not fit correctly when installed using the factory holes in the trailing arms these means that it is necessary to drill new holes. To make the installation on bars that require holes to be drilled the bar can be tied in position with rope while marking the vehicle for drilling.
On bars that have a rubber block bushing on the bar end instead of end-links the use of urethane bushings on the bars' ends are not recommended because of the binding effects in the ends of the bar.
On axle mount kits that use locking devices the assembly is tightened until the base plate deforms slightly or until there is approximately a 3/16" gap between the bottom of the locking device and the axle tube. This will help to prevent the chance of the assembly moving, sliding, rotating or slipping on the axle.
Take special care when messing with the bushings. For proper tightness of end-links and maximum bushing life the end-link nut should be tightened until you can no longer rotate the spacer by hand. Over-tightening end-links could result in bolt failure or if cross-threaded the product could be striped. Mid-section bushing bracket should not be allowed to squeeze the bar. Over tightened bushings will result in noisy bar and faster bushing wear. If curved or uneven frame surface causes the bracket to squeeze the "D" bushing onto the bar, the bracket should be shimmed up with a washer. Synthetic brake caliper grease can be used on tight fitting rubber bushings but the urethane mid-section bushings must be lubed.
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12-30-2003, 10:51 AM
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I Graduated a few years ago and got a new computer. So far I have been able to find this short rough version of install and a longer "better one" on a disk. I'll keep looking............
01-01-2004, 02:02 PM
#11
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In that picture hyperlite attached, that spacer that bolts onto the sway bar and on to the lower arm i believe, whats the name of that? a spacer? also, how do you remove it? i noticed last night that mine isn't bolted thru the lower a arm on my drivers side, and want to take it off and properly install it. do i need some special tool? i took a 15mm socket and tried to unbolt it from the top and bottom, but i couldn't get it off.
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