KnuckleBuster

Hey guys, this is my first post. I had my HG replaced about 3 years ago, and recently it blew again. Not willing or able to shell out another $2500 right now, I went the cheap route and ran some block sealer through it and prayed. It seems to have worked (no smoke & clean coolant), but after a short test drive *ping* there's the CEL again.

This time the only code I get is P0330, #2 knock sensor. From what I've read it's more likely just the wiring, but that doesn't really matter since the whole intake assembly has to come off anyway.

I have basically no experience working on cars but consider myself mechanically inclined. So I decided to have a crack at this knock sensor and hope there are no other issues.

My question is,
1) Anybody have an idea why I've had 2 blown HG's in 3 years? (Never overheated as far as I know.)
2) Could the knock sensor be related or is it a coincidence?
3) If I already have the intake off, is it stupid to not continue and put a more permenant fix on my HG? (I feel in over my head as it is and I'm terrified of messing with the timing belt.)

Remember, I'm an absolute nugget when it comes to engines. I've got a Chilton guide and a decent PDF version of an FSM but as detailed as they are, they don't show every hose and bolt. Plus, my wallet is as broke as my 4runner so...

hross14

A major reason your HG's may be blowing is because the heads were not surfaced with a finish less than 50 RA (RA=Average Roughness) or they didnt put the updated HG's on there.

These heads are sensative to surface finish and need a somewhat special HG.

If i were you--i would just run it (changed your knock wire of course) and save little here and a little there for a motor swap.

The intake and the motor swap arent a bad job at all. the motors are well laid out ---and logical. This is a non-interferance motor so dont sweat the timing belt to much.....

KnuckleBuster

Thanks hross14, my mechanic sent the heads out to be machined last time so I would think they were within RA specs. Maybe the gasket was flawed? not properly installed? or just terrible luck. Either way I think I will do as you suggested and swap it out when I have the means. I'm at a point career-wise that as long as I can hang on for another year or so, it shouldn't be so bad later. For now I just need her to pass smog. (My tags expire in T-12 days.)

As for my little project, I've been learning a lot. I am finally down to the sensors. I just about rounded off the union bolt for the fuel line and ripped the hard fuel line out of the side of the engine compartment , but patience and a little liquid wrench prevailed. I also managed to destroy the plastic cover that the engine wiring is housed in. Does anybody know what Toyota calls that or have a P/N for it? I tested both sensors and the harness for continuity and all tested ok. Since I couldn't isolate the cause I'm just going to replace them all. Now I just have to hunt down the parts and hope that I put all 900 hoses and wires back where they belong.

Btw, does anybody know if it matters whether I use the Denso or Matsua knock sensor. I had Matsua's installed, but it seems like the Denso version is easier to find. they seem the same to me.

KnuckleBuster

Haha! I guess Matsu$h!ta is considered profanity on this forum ^^^^

KnuckleBuster

Knock sensor (89615-12050) X 2 - $350
Wiring harness (82219-34010) - $35
Intake manifold gasket set - $52

I'm just gonna spray some permatex on the plenum gaskets and reuse them. I installed the new sensors and started putting it all back together today. Unfortunately I misread my Chilton manual in the process. Tried to torque my manifold bolts to 160 ft-lbs instead of in-lbs and snapped the bolt. Looks like I need to get a drill.

camo31_10.50

you could atleast get new intake manifold gaskets dude LOL.

and what's wrong with the timing belt? why does everybody hate the 3vz belt?????

KnuckleBuster

I did get new manifold gaskets, just not for the plenum. They looked good and I've heard they are ok to reuse, and like I said, I'm broke.

And I've got the 5vz-fe, I don't have a problem with this belt specifically, but I've heard that timing belts are complicated and I'm a noob so I'm trying not to get myself in a situation I can't handle. Though with this bolt issue, I may have done exactly that.

KnuckleBuster

Ok, now I'm really stuck. Just finished piecing everything back together after replacing both knock sensors and the knock sensor wire. Took her for a test drive and as soon as accelerate onto the freeway my CEL comes back. Ran the OBD scanner and sure enough P0330! I know they're installed correctly so what could is be?

hross14

you installed them RAW right? No sealant, no nothing?

Do you have really loud valve noise?? At this point you go me

KnuckleBuster

I used the little packet of anti-seize compound that came in the box with the knock sensors, but I really doubt that's the problem. The code still shows only the bank 2 sensor bad, same as before. I'm thinking it must be a break in the circuit somewhere in the main engine wiring harness or a problem with the ecm itself.

I know its not the best fix, but I'm thinking of doing like I saw in another thread and just splicing the wire from sensor 1 to supply signal for both ecm inputs. Now I just need to figure out which wire at the ecm plug goes to my knock sensors. I have a wiring diagram but its for a 2002 and my ecm is set up differently. There are only one set of solid black and grey wires. Can I go by color alone?

KnuckleBuster

Ok, so I spliced things together every which way and nothing worked. Everything now gives me both 330 and 325 codes, including after I hooked the original wires back up.

hross14

In the FSM--it just says to install Knock sensors--dont use anything.

When i put my motor together this is the how I put mine together.

My guess is the anti seize is buffering the knocks the knock sensors are hearing. Search my user name and there is a tech article giving you good details on how the motor works.

Also--you have to be nice to those wires and not twist bend them to much.....

KnuckleBuster

So I finally got around to trying to solve this issue after a month of driving on it.

Found the knock sensor wire was not installed in the notch between the intake manifold and the engine block. It had been clamped down by the manifold and melted, grounding both sensors. Replaced the wire and it appears all is well with the knock sensor problem.

The bad news is after reassembling, it ran like hell at idle and threw a new CEL for misfires in all 6 cylinders. I found a leak in the fuel inlet line and tightened it. The roughness continued up until today. Before going to work, I reset the CEL and by the time I got there it hadn't come back on and the engine is idling much better. I'm hoping there was just some leftover air in the fuel line and a nice long trip on the freeway took care of it. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope it stays off, but for now it looks like I'm in the clear.