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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Charleston AFB, SC
Posts: 59
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Having to mount my 285/75/16 to the stocker wheels. What size wheel spacer?
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99 Runner ltd 4wd: factory e-locker, 3" SS lift, SS shackle Hangers, 2" 4crawler BL, 33x11.50 Dick Cepek's MT, Stubbs Sliders, Pro Comp 8069 wheels, Airraid intake & deck plate mod Last edited by Punch; 11-10-2008 at 03:20 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 60
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1"
WabFab You might not need it now, but the extra width is nice, and you will most likely need it with the new wheels since I dont think they come with proper backspacing.
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www.ExploringNH.com Last edited by mysubaruimp; 11-10-2008 at 03:44 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Taylorshole,Mississippi
Posts: 913
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Shouldn't need em.
Bigblock |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: used to be so. cal. now Indy
Posts: 643
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first, you would need them. i have almost the same setup as yours, except mine is SR5. i have tried 285's on stock rims, let me tell ya, you will need them spacers in the front to clear the UCA's.
take off the front wheel, messure how much of the wheel stud sticks out, that's the minimum thickness of wheel spacers you need to get without replacing all the studs. i had 1-1/4" spacers on mine and it barely cleared it.
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http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...gca/agreed.jpg 94 4Runner, SR5 3.0V6, 4WD, 5spd: SOLD 99 4Runner, SR5, 3.4L 4WD, 5spd. LC80 wheels, SS 1.2 lift, Marlin 1200 Clutch, ARB front bumper, BruceTS rear bumper, roof busket, hitch mount tire carrier, Tundra Brakes, Brembo rotors, BudBuilt skid, Lightforce 240 Blitz, PiAA HID, Stubb's HD-SKO sliders. ScanGauge II 04 4Runner SR5 V6 4WD. 265/75/16 BFG KO, FJC coils and silver Bilstein shocks, Scion H/U. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 1,768
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For your trip, I'd leave your stockers on for three reasons:
1) Spacers are a hassle and if not properly mounted, very dangerous. 2) MPG will be better with the stock tires. 3) Mounting on stock rims, then remounting on your new rims plus the cost of spacers will add up. Then after your trip, get those Pro-Comps.
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01 Tacoma DC TRD OR 4x4 |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 60
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Quote:
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www.ExploringNH.com |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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i rubbed slightly on my A arm in the front. 1/4 inch spacers from pep boys fixed that right up and i still have plenty of thread on my wheel lugs. one day, ill get around to shaving my A arm down a bit but this works fine for now. it also brings the wheels out to be PERFECTLY in line with my limited fender flares and looks very sexy
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My Build Thread for sale. very cheap, almost free. 2002 4runner limited running boards (golden pearl) free to a good home. or any home at that 2002 runner stereo with 6 cd changer and external amp. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I run 285's/stock rims with no spacers and don't rub when street driving.
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Jon 97 4Runner 3.4 * 4.88's * ARB Lockers F/R * ARB compressor * Sonoran Steel numba 1 * 285 BFG AT/KO * TJM 17 * BudBuilt Skids * Stubbs Sliders & BBQ sauce * Irbis out back * Various Electronic Gadgets |
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#9 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Charleston AFB, SC
Posts: 59
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These would be on the 5 star wheel.
Quote:
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2 & 3) Money really isn't an issue with that. I really want to put my new mud tires to the test up in snow country. So would everyone agree that if I add a 1/4 spacer and shave my A-arms down that I should have plenty of room? Now with the new 16x8 wheels with a 4" BS I should be in the clear. What if I don't shave the A-arms? Your guys thoughts?
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99 Runner ltd 4wd: factory e-locker, 3" SS lift, SS shackle Hangers, 2" 4crawler BL, 33x11.50 Dick Cepek's MT, Stubbs Sliders, Pro Comp 8069 wheels, Airraid intake & deck plate mod Last edited by Punch; 11-10-2008 at 04:55 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: north ridgeville ohio
Posts: 382
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Ohio now why would you want to come here !!!!! what part you coming to ?
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1993 4runner 4x4 3.0 automatic 237k and counting $1600. new cat and muffler factory 488s REAR SUPRA LSD MOD BY ZUK manual lock out upgrade! new moog rear coils! new Paint ! mc rear bumper trail gear sliders 16x7 2001 rims with 285 terra grapplers NO LIFT Taurus e fan mod 1st gen rollbar custom 1/8inch front skid next up .... tank relocation |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: PDX, OR
Posts: 4,706
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DO NOT SHAVE YOUR A-ARMS!
I tried an old set of 1/4" spacers, they did not allow the lugs to get enough threads
__________________
~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread **TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS**
GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others |
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#12 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Charleston AFB, SC
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Quote:
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99 Runner ltd 4wd: factory e-locker, 3" SS lift, SS shackle Hangers, 2" 4crawler BL, 33x11.50 Dick Cepek's MT, Stubbs Sliders, Pro Comp 8069 wheels, Airraid intake & deck plate mod |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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X2 on the sonoran steel A arm product.
but i dont think you will need them if you are comfortable with the 1/4 inch wheels spacers. some may feel that there is not enough thread but if u remove your center cap and watch how much it is, it put my mind at ease. just check ur lugs.
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My Build Thread for sale. very cheap, almost free. 2002 4runner limited running boards (golden pearl) free to a good home. or any home at that 2002 runner stereo with 6 cd changer and external amp. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Charleston AFB, SC
Posts: 59
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Quote:
I like the SS A arm, but I can't justify $250 dollars when I can do this myself. For people who don't feel they can do this, it's a great idea to buy them.
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99 Runner ltd 4wd: factory e-locker, 3" SS lift, SS shackle Hangers, 2" 4crawler BL, 33x11.50 Dick Cepek's MT, Stubbs Sliders, Pro Comp 8069 wheels, Airraid intake & deck plate mod |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member
Staff
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You won't find a wheel spacer under 1".
You will find lots of "washers" 1/4" to 1/2" but these often require longer wheel studs. Wheel spacers are perfectly safe, but like anything else, dangerous if not installed properly.
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WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 189
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Lots of speculation on what may happen when you put the tires on there....to be honest, you will not know until you get it done. When i put 285/75 nittos on my stock wheels, they cleared the a-arms at full droop. The problem was at full turn when my tires rubbed the frame. So don't purchase anything until you get them mounted and see exactly what you need. Some people have mounted them without a problem and others couldn't even get them on there...
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'01 4Runner SR5 4x4 Last edited by shiftMX; 11-10-2008 at 08:00 PM. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Charleston AFB, SC
Posts: 59
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waskillywabbit you have a PM.
ShiftMX, that seems to be the way I may have to go. I just want minimal down time when I through all this stuff on my runner.
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99 Runner ltd 4wd: factory e-locker, 3" SS lift, SS shackle Hangers, 2" 4crawler BL, 33x11.50 Dick Cepek's MT, Stubbs Sliders, Pro Comp 8069 wheels, Airraid intake & deck plate mod |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Los Alamos, NM
Posts: 2,650
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Since you have a '99 4Runner (and hence hub-centric wheels), WabFab's spacers are technically not the correct application for your vehicle. Wabbit's spacers >might< work fine, or you might have a vibration you'll never get rid of.
The only true hub-centric that I've seen (that aren't custom) are Spidertrax Spacers; they are 1.25" thick. http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2294/.f For the record, I was running 285x75r16s on stock alloys for a long time, they cleared the upper A-arm by only about a 1/4" though... I needed a set of spacers to fit my 17" FJ Alloys, but thought that 1.25" would be too thick, so I designed a set of 0.75" spacers and had them made at a machine shop instead. They worked out well, but being a custom set you can't buy them from any companies, and I had to cut off about .25" of my wheel studs to get them to work. http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=4657.0 ![]()
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Brian 1998 4Runner SR5 Last edited by mastacox; 11-10-2008 at 08:59 PM. |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Charleston AFB, SC
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Oh geez, you just opened up a whole bunch more questions, lol. I was told my wheels were not hub centric. I'm a little confused on what hub centric means but I believe it has to do how the wheel mounts to the hub, correct? If thats the case I need to make sure the ProComp 8069's I buy are the hub centric ones, correct? If I decide to run these spidertrax 1.25" spacers how bad are my tires going to stick out past my fender flares? (remember I have a limited). I wish I could see the pics but these Government computers here block photobucket. Are they pics with the spacers, wheels, and tires on?
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99 Runner ltd 4wd: factory e-locker, 3" SS lift, SS shackle Hangers, 2" 4crawler BL, 33x11.50 Dick Cepek's MT, Stubbs Sliders, Pro Comp 8069 wheels, Airraid intake & deck plate mod |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,828
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Easy way to tell hub- vs. lug-centric is to look for how the wheel fits on the hub. If there is a tight fit of the hole in the wheel with a raised lip on the hub, then is it hub-centric (i.e. the wheel is centered on the hub). If there is a gap between the center of the wheel and the hub, then it is only the lug bolts/nuts that center the wheel (i.e. lug-centric):
On my '85, you can see a good 1/8" gap between the center hole in the wheel and the hub body:
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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 4,527
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Punch,
I assume you'd be wanting new lug nuts for your new wheels. Since your having this dilemma, now would be a good time to get them while waiting for the Procomp's. Wheelersoffroad.com and Summitracing.com have Gorilla spline drive "E/T Ultra Style" lug nuts which "feature an extended thread section/centering barrel that increases thread contact". Gorilla calls them SD E-T. I plan on getting them myself whenever those 8069's become available. If your concerned about rubbing and need a quick/inexpensive/temporary solution, I'd suggest getting 1/4" spacers from Wheeler's along with those lug nuts. To give you a good idea where any spacers will put stock wheels, see this thread: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/3rd-gen-s...w-pics-135007/ 1" spacers would be an absolute waste. Like shiftMX and others said, many here have ran 285's on stock wheels without spacers. Some rub and others nothing or worth noting. I've never herd/read of anyone destroying a tire because of it. -rocket |
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Charleston AFB, SC
Posts: 59
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Quote:
__________________
99 Runner ltd 4wd: factory e-locker, 3" SS lift, SS shackle Hangers, 2" 4crawler BL, 33x11.50 Dick Cepek's MT, Stubbs Sliders, Pro Comp 8069 wheels, Airraid intake & deck plate mod |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 4,527
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You can run them from CA to NY and back.
After the first 75-100~ miles, simply check each lug to be sure there still torqued/tight and check again periodically. As long as your lug nuts have enough thread contact, 1/4" spacers (washers) are nothing to be concerned about. 1"-1.25" spacers/adapters are fine if you intend on keeping factory wheels. With those "special" Gorilla lugs and aftermarket wheels, you might actually end up wanting to keep those 1/4" spacers just to have a 'perfect' 16x8, 3.75" BS wheel. S.S. recommends 3.5" BS wheels on lifted IFS 3rd gens for a valid reason (wider stance) but that wheel option is pretty much nonexistent and I'd argue 3.75" or 4" is better for the CV's and is still definitely better than the stock 4.625" BS/narrow 7" rim. |
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#24 (permalink) | |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: PDX, OR
Posts: 4,706
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Quote:
__________________
~Robb '81 Trekker The B4Runner Build TREKKER Forum Mini FAQ/Misc Ideas Thread **TRY THESE SEARCH LINKS**
GOOGLE FOR TOYOTA WEBSITES LINK TO ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS Drive a real 1st Gen Wheel Responsibly, Don't Screw It Up for Others |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 85
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It depends on what tires you run, I needed 1/4" spacers on my 285 MTR's on the stock 3 spokes...only one side touched the A arm though. There is just about the full threads on the lugnut engaged so it is fine, just make sure you keep them touqued. I think the 16x8, 4" BS is the perfect fitting wheel, I like the slightly wider track but not sticking out past the flares.
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Why??? Because I Can !!! My wife knows the difference between a body lift and suspension lift!!!, does yours? 96 4Runner, E-locked, TRD Tundra/ FJ80 coils, Bilstien 5125's, 285/75/16 MTR's. Lots more custom parts coming. 87 Supra 1jz 420 hp Check out my website: www.bicperformance.com |
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