Salue

I'm thinking about buying one of those recharge kits for the a/c system since I figure that's the cheapest way to do it. And if it doesn't work, then I shall bring it in to have a professional take a look. I was just wondering if anybody has done this. Seeing that the weather is starting to warm up a little bit, I might as well get the a/c ready. Right now, when I turn the a/c on I can not feel any difference in cold air if the a/c wasn't on.

Salue

TDiddy

R-134a? I've done it before on other vehicles, and its really easy. There will be 2 ports on the A/C lines, one high pressure and one low. They're labeled with caps that have an 'H' or an 'L'. I think you use the low presssure port, but I don't remember for sure. It says on the package. You just hook up the hose to the can, and then to the port, anad run the car with the AC on. It draws in the new refrigerant and recharges. Only takes a few minutes.

Salue

Thanks Tom,
I shall give it a try this weekend.

Salue

growinseed

It is diffentately the low pressure side. Put the temp. seletor on coldest setting. One word of experience, without a pressure gauge in line, the more expensive recharge kit, you can put too much 134a in system and blow the seals on the conpressor. The cheap repair just got really expensive. I've recharged a few a/c systems with the gauge type and blew one compressor before I spent the extra money. If a recharge doesn't last long you probably have a leak. Shops have a die they can add to find which fitting/seal is blowing off the refrigerant. HTH

Nathan

jroc

I have a leak and it takes 1 1/2 months to leak down enough to make the compressor stop, The fix will be costly so for 4 bucks a pop I fill mine with a can of 134a. I have a thermo in the middle vent and when I fill it (A/C on high and fan blowing full) when the thermo reads 40* I take off the can and off I go for another 1 1/2 months. I go through a little over 2 cans a summer.......about 12 bucks worth. If the thing doesn't get any worse......that's how it will forever be. BTW make sure you hook to the "L" line.

Vrooooom

from your signature, it looks like you have an '87 and a '94. i think those years still used r-12. unless you retrofitted to r-134a, you shouldn't put r-134a in. generally, it's a bad idea to mix together different refrigerants.

Victor

94 is the first year for R134

fpkelly

Im with Jroc on this one. I just put in refill kit of R134a into it w/o converting it and it has lasted for 2 years and going now. Definitely hook it up to the low side and wear gloves/glasses in case it sprays.

RgrChu

Quick question...are all '94s r-134 or did they change that mid production year? I've always thought mine used r-12. I've never had to recharge it...but I may this summer. A shop told me that it would cost about $100 to recharge my AC, b/c it used the older refrigerant (r-12). I've seen the conversion kits, so I was planning on going that route. Hey this would be great tech write-up opportunity...hint hint What would be the best way or place to check what type of refrigerant is in my '94?

CTB

Should be on a sticker under the hood. Look to see if there is a sticker on the AC compressor - I think there is one, and it should tell you what type of refrigerant is used in your rig.

TDiddy

Yep, there should be a sticker under the hood to identify the refrigerant. You could also find in in an owners/Haynes/Chiltons manual in the specs section.

Victor

It was my info that in 94 all trucks and 4runners got R134a and side door impact beams.

Vrooooom

i have a 1994 truck and it uses R-12

4RUNR

See I used search!

How much should a refill on '99 cost? Mine isn't anywhere as cold as I think it should be. Today was first real hot day (95F) and on the 2nd fan speed and recirculation it was just enough to stay cool. The temp feels about 50F. If that's a good estimate (can measure it tomorrow) is a refill warranted?

Los Gatos?

Hey can I recharge my '90's A/C or do I have to get it updated to the new refridgerant? I've never gotten a solid answer on this ....

Los Gatos?

Okay so mine is definitely R-12. How much is a conversion kit???

Ben(Miami)

Here are a few suggestions from someone who did a full R12 to R134a conversion on a 1992 300ZX TT after ruining it with a DIY Kmart "conversion" kit. Sorry for the length.

1.) If you have a R12 system, DO NOT use a conversion kit. R134a and R12 use different oils, and are not compatible with each other. Since there is no way to effectively clean out your system completely, the refridgerant/oils will react with each other to form a substance that will eat away your seals. I had to learn the hard way. BTW, a easy way to check if your system is R12 or R134a is to look at the service ports. R12 used a "thread" on type service valve whereas R134a uses a "quick-connect" type coupling. R134a service port is also bigger.

2.) If you have a R134a system and you have lost refridgerant, you most likely have a leak. Leaks in R134a systems are BAD. Moisture/humidity from ambient air will react with the oil in R134a systems and will also cause it to eat away at your seals.

If you are just looking for a cheap recharge of a R12 system, and you still have a few cans of the stuff laying around from the 80s when the stuff was like $2 a can, AND, you have a R12 service set laying around (you can't buy that stuff anymore without a license), just pop open a can, hook up the hoses/guages, and let 'er rip. If you need a shop to do it, they'll likely charge you 0.5-1 hour labor plus refridgerant. These days, refridgerant runs around $40 per pound, with most automotive systems' capacities running around 1.5 pounds give or take a few. You'll be looking at around $100-$150 service each time you need to refill. It'll add up quickly if you have a leak that is left unrepaired (not to mention destryoing the ozone layer, etc., etc.).

I had the same problem with my Z (R12 system, leak, didn't want to pay $150 every time to refill), so I converted it to R134a. I tried using a quick-conversion (Kmart style) R12 --> R134a kit, but the results are disastrous. After a couple of years running R134a in my R12 system, popping in a can or 2 of R134a everytime the AC got warm (*ALWAYS* use a gauge set with R134a kit--it is very easy to overfill and blow seals), I ended up eating a nice hole in one of my high side o-rings with R134a and had to replace most of my system.

To do a proper conversion, you should replace the condenser, evaporator, dryer, any ruber tubes, O-RINGS(very important), and the compressor--basically, the entire system. Since removing the evaporator (and replacing the condensor) is a pain in the @$$, and replacing the compressor is expensive, I think you can get away with the following--change anything that is rubber (o-rings at the fittings, any rubber flex hoses, etc.), change the dryer, and flush out the compressor (empty any and all old compressor oil, refill with R134a oil, repeat a couple of times). The most important thing to keep in mind is that the R134a oil reacts with moisture to form a compound that eats up any rubber components. Also, from what I recall (it's been awhile, now), I think there are 2 types of R134a oil--PAG and ester oil. One is less reactive than the other (sorry that I can't remember which--I'm sure a google search will reveal the answer). So, try to flush out as much of the old R12 stuff as possible, refill with R134a oil (use the less reactive stuff--I think it was the PAG oil), and then reconnect everything. Before refilling with R134a refridgerant, hook up the system to a vacuum pump and leave the system on vacuum for a couple of hours. That will accomplish 2 things. 1.) that your system doesn't have a leak. 2.) it will remove the remaining air/humidity from your system to keep it as water free as possible. If your system holds vacuum, proceed on to filling it with R134a and compressor oil and you're done. It is a labor intensive process, but is the only way to do it correctly. Should take you all of a Saturday if you're mechanically inclined.

edit: If you just need to recharge a R134a system, it is both cheap and easy. Go to Walmart (or Kmart, etc.) and buy a R134a recharge kit--these come in 2 flavors--one is a bottle with a gauge and hose preattached to it (designed for use and throw away), or a gauge kit (hose and gauge) with separate bottles. I think the bottles of R134a refridgerant cost about 4 bucks each (you'll need 1-2 depending on how empty your system is), and the hose and gauge kit is another $10 bucks maybe?

Whew! I think doing it was easier than writing it all down! Good luck with it all. I may have forgot somethings here and there, PM/email me if you have any questions.

Regards,
Ben(Miami)
'02 Limited 4X2

seafarinman

I had R-12 in my system on my 94 and converted to R-134A a few years back. Still going strong, no leaks...guess I had a good fluke. I guess that if the system goes bad, then I have a reason to do an A/C to Air Compressor conversion!

its2slo

you are 45 degrees cooler than the outside temp, that is very good imho. you shouldnt need a charge. oh,diy the refill man(i mean if you did need one sometime)



salue,
hmmm, pay $80 to be told you need a new o-ring for more money, buy new o-rings and diy, or pay $5 for a bottle that lasts a season in oregon. when my nissan did this i took the easy way out

RgrChu

Well after 9 years....my A/C doesn't just blow warm air....it's blowing hot air....well on the hot days (mid 80's) here in Seattle. I think after that nice long write up about the bad conversion story...I'm going to bite the bullet and pay the MAN....it's getting very old driving around with warm air blowing....