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Hard start long crank time after not driving for a while

Old 04-08-2009, 12:29 PM
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Hard start long crank time after not driving for a while

So I've got just one thing wrong with my newly acquired 01 SR5. This problem doesn't seem to be temperature related. Just if it sits for a couple hours or more I have to crank for 4 to 5 seconds before it catches. I've got a new/strong battery and the starter works as it should.

If I drive just a mile down the road, I can shut it off and restart no problem. So that leads me to believe it's not temperature. And even on warm days it still takes a lot of cranking first thing in the morning. The only thing I can think of right now is fuel pressure. But even if I wait for the pump to prime the system (or atleast that's what it sounds like), it still takes a long time to catch.

It's got to be fuel or spark. Neither are that easy to check because even fuel pressure won't tell me if there is air in the injectors.

Sooooo, any help is appreciated.
Old 04-08-2009, 04:09 PM
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Well,start with the basics...what do the plugs look?...after cold soak overnight..if you crack one of the fuel rails does fuel spray or dribble out?..
Old 04-08-2009, 07:17 PM
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You are probably losing fuel pressure. There is a pressure relief valve on the fuel return line that can leak. Also there should be a check valve in or near the fuel pump. If either of these leak, it will take several seconds for the pump to pressurize the system.
Old 04-09-2009, 03:52 AM
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I'm chasing this gremlin myself right now. I have replaced my fuel pump a couple of days ago, but I'm not satisfied that it is fixed. Mine started this behavior after sitting for a week. Now I'm focusing on the pressure regulator. It doesn't smoke when it does start. The oil doesn't smell like gas. So, I don't think I have injector leak down. Mine is random. The truck runs great otherwise. I will say the Airtex fuel pump is too loud.
Old 04-09-2009, 04:07 AM
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I had a similar problem on my '94 Runner. It was a fuel pressure issue. Replacing the fuel pump fixed my problem. I think there was a check valve that went and was letting the fuel lines equalize the pressure back into the tank. I am sure there is a way to check your pump and system.

Like someone mentied above lossen a connection on the rails and see if there is pressure in the lines after it sits overnight.

good luck

Last edited by Innervision; 04-09-2009 at 04:09 AM.
Old 04-09-2009, 05:22 AM
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Yeah, I've done a lot of research on this and did find something relating to the 2003-2004 4Runner having bad grounds on the engine harness. I can see how that would cause a spark issue but I haven't found anything like this for our generation.

So I'd like to check fuel pressure. I do know that the charcoal canister was replaced by the previous owner (had an error code I guess) but I know that it was pretty much sitting for the 4 months before I bought it.

I haven't looked yet but is there a schrader type valve on the fuel rail? I'd buy a guage to check if I have to. Cheaper than going to the dealer anyways.
Old 09-09-2010, 06:22 PM
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Any progress on this topic. I also have the same problem. Long crank in both my 98 and my 99.
Old 09-11-2010, 04:48 AM
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After hundreds of dollars and lots of my time, I finally burned up my starter due to this issue. I replaced the starter and the entire problem disappeared. Come to find out, the old starter was consuming so much amperage that it was starving the rest of the system. Even though the starter sounded fine, it was the guilty party the whole time. I haven't had an issue with starting for the past several months.
Old 09-11-2010, 02:06 PM
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mine does this exact same thing but its the cam shaft sensor.Sometimes it will crank perfect but most of the time it have 3-5 second crank.
Old 09-18-2010, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rbh261
After hundreds of dollars and lots of my time, I finally burned up my starter due to this issue. I replaced the starter and the entire problem disappeared. Come to find out, the old starter was consuming so much amperage that it was starving the rest of the system. Even though the starter sounded fine, it was the guilty party the whole time. I haven't had an issue with starting for the past several months.
Glad you got it figured out. The only thing I know is that the ECU is slow to respond to cranking signals. So I wouldn't be surprised if something weird like this is my problem too.
Old 10-26-2010, 01:58 PM
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Where is the pressure relief valve located?? I have a 2000 SR5, 3.4L with the same issues... long crank time if it's been sitting overnight. My initial thought was fuel pump??
Old 10-26-2010, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by WestEnd
Where is the pressure relief valve located?? I have a 2000 SR5, 3.4L with the same issues... long crank time if it's been sitting overnight. My initial thought was fuel pump??
It doesn't have one. You have to get the pressure from the end of the rail. No kit has a fitting that works out of the box. here's everything you need to know: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...essure-215419/

I have an extra Actron fitting if you want it. $10 shipped.
Old 10-26-2010, 05:34 PM
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did you rebuild your toyota starter, or did you use an OEM? just wondering
Old 08-18-2014, 04:16 PM
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Did anyone else ever find a solution to this problem?

I just finished my 3.4 swap and after about 300 miles, it now takes A LOT of cranking to get it to start, so much that sometimes Ill give up because I dont want to fry the starter or drain the battery. When it finally does start it runs really great though. I put in a new pump and filter already.
Old 08-19-2014, 02:16 AM
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I bought it at 85k miles, the starter had to be replaced at about 125k so I put a lifetime warranty unit in, from Napa. It has almost 175k on it now. The starting performance improved a little bit with the new starter and is more predictable. I recently started to work with someone who has a 2002 4Runner and it sounds the exact same at start up. I think this is just how these trucks are.

BUT, once or twice a year, it still has a hard time catching. It always starts but it takes a couple tries.

The only thing I plan to try is to modify the crank sensor so it sits closer to the crank teeth. This should give it a stronger signal. I can't do this until I replace the timing belt though. Probably will do this before winter.
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