UKMyers

Well finally got the time to do my brakes today. First side was pretty easy all accept the pins absolutely sucked to pull out. They were so dry and stuck in there. Even pounding the crap out of it with the punch they wouldn't budge. Did some some BFH coaxing and thank god for vise grips and they came out. I sanded them down and put antisieze on them when I put it back together. Well things are going okay at this point so I move to the other side. Pulled out the old pads loosened the bleeder and started compressing the pistons. I get to the last one and it don't move. I try harder and it don't move. NOW I know why my brakes been acting weird. I have a FROZEN piston in the caliper!!!! At this point it's 730pm and the shop closes at 8 and I can't get my new pads in because I can't compress it anymore, my trucks on jackstands, and both wheels are off. I am starting to panic and luckily the guy running the place hooked me up. We ended up clamping the line and removing the caliper all together. I used this gigantic C-clamp to compress the piston and fluid came out and all that good stuff. Put it back together and everything works good. Brakes are better than they have ever been since I have had the runner. It doesn't pull anymore either because of that weak caliper and frozen piston.

Here's a question though. By forcing that piston in did I screw anything up and is it possible it just stuck and after being compressed and freed itself up? I thought that since the piston is so far in now with the new pads maybe it would be past the point it was sticking work properly. I really don't want to replace the caliper because I know them suckers are spendy. They guy at the garage suggested mabye honing out the piston cylinder and replacing the O-rings. Is this possible? Anyways I guess my question is should I be concerned about the piston sticking again. It's obviously been doing that for a while. OH and BTW it does not hang up. After bleeding the brakes I could still spin the rotor by hand.... Thanks guys
Joey

1Runner

Joey, what you were told is right. You can rebuild those calipers. Buy a Hone for the job (they work in an elec. drill) and buy a rebuild kit. I did the rebuild many moons ago on a 74 landcruiser I owned. Your brakes will be fine.... for now. (I learned this the hard way) Once they wear to the point that the piston needs to exceed the worn area in your caliper, it will hang up again.
Rebuild them when you get the chance. You'll save yourself alot of headache.

Salue

Joey,
I'm glad you were able to fix(hopefully) that problem with the stuck piston. You must be relieved, and proud that you were able to change the pads yourself. Congratulations.

Salue

did you get your rotors turned or just slapped in the new pads?

UKMyers

Salue no I didnt' turn the rotors.. another disadvatage of living over here. I can't just run on down to autozone and have the turned for 10 bucks. I would have had to drive about 40 miles to nearest city and paid about 45 bucks to have it done. I have ZERO shaking in the wheel and they were smooth as glass so I think they will be okay for now. If I end up taking it back apart to rebuild that cylinder I'll get em turned then.

williemon

I would not have them turned. If your braking is smooth now, then the rotors are fine. If they warp later, get new ones. If you have them turned, youll be doing the job again 6 months to a year later. Been there...Done that. You did good that you did not force the fluid back into the system. I have always done that but since I read not to, and your situation is a clear example of a situation that could have been made worse if you had not loosened the bleeder, I think I will loosen the bleeder from now on. But again, from what I learned about my 2nd gens brakes, If the rotors are warped, or even if they are fine, and you have them turned, they will warp again very soon, and then be too thin to turn. Best to buy new ones when the need comes up.

Cebby

I'll second that. Happened to me last summer. Except I only got about one month before they warped (bad) after being turned. When the ones I have on now are spent, I'm going to try the NWOR crossdrilled ones...

CTB

Damn, so it has happened to y'all too....

I think I am going to do a serious brake job this summer: new rotors, pads, shoes, and bleed the brakes.

I had my rotors turned and new pads installed two summers ago, but my brakes just don't feel very good - at least not like how they used to. Now, after I have been using the brakes for a while, they make this sort of metallic grinding sound. I know, I know - I have already looked at the pads and they are fine. Anyway, that is going to be an expensive weekend project!