GOOF-UP: Hard-Wiring a Power Inverter
04-30-2005, 01:36 AM
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GOOF-UP: Hard-Wiring a Power Inverter
Well, as I should have known, today went way to smooth for life to be all good.
I started out this afternoon and decided to start the hard-wiring of my 750 watt power inverter to the rear of my '98 4Runner. I finally received the Phoenix Gold circuit breaker and distribution box, so I was set to roll. I easily mounted the distribution box in the small cavity between my jack and my factory tools under the rear seat. Perfect fit!
With that out of the way, I removed the battery and mounted the circuit breaker. Again, this went very easy. One small hole for a the bolt and it was on. I started removing the paneling to run the 4-gauge wire under the carpet along the door panel and kick plates, up through the firewall and up to the battery. Again, all went very smooth. I crimped the ends and hooked it all up. About the time I was done cleaning up, my parents asked me to go to dinner with them. Made for an even better evening. Then the fun began.
I jump in my Runner and start out to the restaurant. I hit the end of the road and flip on my left blinker. The thing is blinking about twice as fast as it should. Hmm. That's wierd, but we'll check it out later. About a mile later, I end up flipping on my right blinker. It blinks the correct speed, but I notice my clock is dimming and getting brighter with each chime of the blinker. What the...
By this time, it isn't dark enough to really see the gauge cluster or the tail lights very well, so we go in and eat. Afterwards, I go out to the truck, and, knowing something is wrong, start checking things out. My gauge cluster doesn't light up at all when I turn on the headlights. The tail lights don't work and neither does the right headlight. What the ... is going on? Better get it home to the garage for a more thorough check up.
I get to the end of the road and flip on the blinker for a right turn. MY ENTIRE GAUGE CLUSTER IS BLINKING ON AND OFF JUST LIKE THE BLINKER!!! What the ...?
The only place I could possibly conceive of a possible circuitry problem like this is the wire loom going through the firewall. My Dad and I start fiddling with it and when I move the wire loom just right, the tail lights go on. After pulling the battery, the canister, the fuse box, virtually every terminal under the dash, and removing the loom enough to check it, we found the problem.
I'm not sure how I managed it, but when I pushed the 4-gauge wire through the rubber grommet in the firewall, I managed to slice five wires, leaving them to cross-connect as they saw fit. After about three hours of diagnosing, tearing down, splicing, and then reconnecting everything, the problem was fixed with five butt connectors and a lot of electrical tape. Man, was that the wierdest and longest fix I've had to do for what was supposed to be a simple modification. And I feel like a complete retard afterwards, too.
But man, was that funny to watch the gauge cluster flash like a blinker!!!
I started out this afternoon and decided to start the hard-wiring of my 750 watt power inverter to the rear of my '98 4Runner. I finally received the Phoenix Gold circuit breaker and distribution box, so I was set to roll. I easily mounted the distribution box in the small cavity between my jack and my factory tools under the rear seat. Perfect fit!
With that out of the way, I removed the battery and mounted the circuit breaker. Again, this went very easy. One small hole for a the bolt and it was on. I started removing the paneling to run the 4-gauge wire under the carpet along the door panel and kick plates, up through the firewall and up to the battery. Again, all went very smooth. I crimped the ends and hooked it all up. About the time I was done cleaning up, my parents asked me to go to dinner with them. Made for an even better evening. Then the fun began.
I jump in my Runner and start out to the restaurant. I hit the end of the road and flip on my left blinker. The thing is blinking about twice as fast as it should. Hmm. That's wierd, but we'll check it out later. About a mile later, I end up flipping on my right blinker. It blinks the correct speed, but I notice my clock is dimming and getting brighter with each chime of the blinker. What the...
By this time, it isn't dark enough to really see the gauge cluster or the tail lights very well, so we go in and eat. Afterwards, I go out to the truck, and, knowing something is wrong, start checking things out. My gauge cluster doesn't light up at all when I turn on the headlights. The tail lights don't work and neither does the right headlight. What the ... is going on? Better get it home to the garage for a more thorough check up.
I get to the end of the road and flip on the blinker for a right turn. MY ENTIRE GAUGE CLUSTER IS BLINKING ON AND OFF JUST LIKE THE BLINKER!!! What the ...?
The only place I could possibly conceive of a possible circuitry problem like this is the wire loom going through the firewall. My Dad and I start fiddling with it and when I move the wire loom just right, the tail lights go on. After pulling the battery, the canister, the fuse box, virtually every terminal under the dash, and removing the loom enough to check it, we found the problem.
I'm not sure how I managed it, but when I pushed the 4-gauge wire through the rubber grommet in the firewall, I managed to slice five wires, leaving them to cross-connect as they saw fit. After about three hours of diagnosing, tearing down, splicing, and then reconnecting everything, the problem was fixed with five butt connectors and a lot of electrical tape. Man, was that the wierdest and longest fix I've had to do for what was supposed to be a simple modification. And I feel like a complete retard afterwards, too.
But man, was that funny to watch the gauge cluster flash like a blinker!!!
04-30-2005, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Demosthine
An air compressor mainly...
Oh, and well done on the trouble shooting!
04-30-2005, 07:29 AM
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Speaking of inverters, would it be safe to install the type that plugs into the cigarette lighter and run a laptop off it?
How about a coffee grinder and an espresso machine?
I know nothing about inverters, but they have always interested me. I have been eyeing the ones they sell at Costco, which seem to be pretty basic, but cool to have around.
How about a coffee grinder and an espresso machine?
I know nothing about inverters, but they have always interested me. I have been eyeing the ones they sell at Costco, which seem to be pretty basic, but cool to have around.
04-30-2005, 08:00 AM
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Dood!
Get the largest one you can find at CostCo; I bought a 1000w/2000w (continuous/surge) one there a while ago for about $70.
I've run a jigsaw off of it, and my "tuning laptop" is always plugged in. I've also run a blender off of it - just 'cause I could.
To figure out the power you need, check the back of the espresso maker for it's load rating. It'll be expressed in either amps or watts. If it's amps, then to get watts multiple amps times volts, e.g., 9 amps at 120v is 1080 watts. Add 10% or so to the wattage number and shop an inverter that's rated at that point for _continuous_ load.
When shopping around, you'll want an inverter that has a low-voltage cutoff, large heat sinks, and a fan is nice. You can spend a LOT on what's known as a "sine wave" inverter, but you really don't need it for what we're talking about here. You shouldn't have to spend more than $100 to make it happen.
Mount it some place where there's good air flow, and run large gauge wire to it (2 gauge wire or better for a 1000w box). It'll be your choice to run it straight from the battery or through an ignition controlled relay... If you run it through a relay, be sure to get a HIGH amp relay - REALLY high. A 1000w inverter under heavy load can draw a massive amount of 12v power.
I wouldn't recommend the cigarette lighter style... the output is pretty low, and the lighter wiring isn't designed for high current loads.
I SEE A COSTCO RUN IN YOUR FUTURE!
Get the largest one you can find at CostCo; I bought a 1000w/2000w (continuous/surge) one there a while ago for about $70.
I've run a jigsaw off of it, and my "tuning laptop" is always plugged in. I've also run a blender off of it - just 'cause I could.
To figure out the power you need, check the back of the espresso maker for it's load rating. It'll be expressed in either amps or watts. If it's amps, then to get watts multiple amps times volts, e.g., 9 amps at 120v is 1080 watts. Add 10% or so to the wattage number and shop an inverter that's rated at that point for _continuous_ load.
When shopping around, you'll want an inverter that has a low-voltage cutoff, large heat sinks, and a fan is nice. You can spend a LOT on what's known as a "sine wave" inverter, but you really don't need it for what we're talking about here. You shouldn't have to spend more than $100 to make it happen.
Mount it some place where there's good air flow, and run large gauge wire to it (2 gauge wire or better for a 1000w box). It'll be your choice to run it straight from the battery or through an ignition controlled relay... If you run it through a relay, be sure to get a HIGH amp relay - REALLY high. A 1000w inverter under heavy load can draw a massive amount of 12v power.
I wouldn't recommend the cigarette lighter style... the output is pretty low, and the lighter wiring isn't designed for high current loads.
I SEE A COSTCO RUN IN YOUR FUTURE!
04-30-2005, 08:02 AM
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I'm not sure how I managed it, but when I pushed the 4-gauge wire through the rubber grommet in the firewall, I managed to slice five wires, leaving them to cross-connect as they saw fit. After about three hours of diagnosing, tearing down, splicing, and then reconnecting everything, the problem was fixed with five butt connectors and a lot of electrical tape. Man, was that the wierdest and longest fix I've had to do for what was supposed to be a simple modification. And I feel like a complete retard afterwards, too.
For anyone else thinking of pushing wires through the soft firewall grommet that is used for the main loom.....be very carefull!
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04-30-2005, 08:19 AM
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if your load is gonna be that much, i would also suggest getting a capacitor to smooth out the peak to peak ripple voltage. that way you wont have that dimming of the clock when u turn on your blinkers.
04-30-2005, 11:29 AM
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Well, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one out there who's done this.
And yes, definately buy a good one and either do it yourself or have it professionally done, but have it hard wired somewhere in your truck. I have yet to find a good compressor that would inflate SUV tires, so I just opted to carry a 2 gallon, 110 psi compressor in the back at all times. It's already helped with several people at work or stuck on the freeway. And of course it's nice to have that option for the laptop espresso machine, etc. I chose the rear of the truck because I'm in the process of making an organizer back there with compartments, so the inverter will easily hide underneath of something. I have seen them mounted under the driver and passenger seat both. That 12volt cigarette lighter does nothing for me.
Besides, if you do it right, you'll already have 75% of the setup to add an amp and series sound system later!
And yes, definately buy a good one and either do it yourself or have it professionally done, but have it hard wired somewhere in your truck. I have yet to find a good compressor that would inflate SUV tires, so I just opted to carry a 2 gallon, 110 psi compressor in the back at all times. It's already helped with several people at work or stuck on the freeway. And of course it's nice to have that option for the laptop espresso machine, etc. I chose the rear of the truck because I'm in the process of making an organizer back there with compartments, so the inverter will easily hide underneath of something. I have seen them mounted under the driver and passenger seat both. That 12volt cigarette lighter does nothing for me.
Besides, if you do it right, you'll already have 75% of the setup to add an amp and series sound system later!
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