Good Deal? Or Too Good
#1
Good Deal? Or Too Good
Just received my tax refund this week and am getting very close to purchasing a new rig. I have been looking mainly at 4x4 tacomas but came across this 4runner today.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false
Sorry, haven't taken the time to learn how to post pics yet but here's the low down
98 sr5 4x4
122,000 miles
3.4L 5VZ-FE V6
asking price $5490 KBB $6990
Just came across it today so I don't have a carfax yet. This just seems cheaper than most of the tacos i've been looking at with similar mileage. What do you guys think?
Also, the truck is for sale about 6 hours from where I live. Any recommendations on the best way to have an independent mechanic look at it. I mean it would kinda suck to travel that far just to find out that something major is wrong with the truck. I guess thats just the risk you gotta take? Anyone dealt with a similar situation?
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false
Sorry, haven't taken the time to learn how to post pics yet but here's the low down
98 sr5 4x4
122,000 miles
3.4L 5VZ-FE V6
asking price $5490 KBB $6990
Just came across it today so I don't have a carfax yet. This just seems cheaper than most of the tacos i've been looking at with similar mileage. What do you guys think?
Also, the truck is for sale about 6 hours from where I live. Any recommendations on the best way to have an independent mechanic look at it. I mean it would kinda suck to travel that far just to find out that something major is wrong with the truck. I guess thats just the risk you gotta take? Anyone dealt with a similar situation?
#3
Yea, every truck i've been looking at I usually think I can get for $500 to $1000 less. But not sure how to negotiate this. Try to talk to him over the phone or just show up and wheel and deal? The only problem with this is that this is my first car purchase on my own. Kinda borrowed money from the family to buy my last car so when financing i'm looked at as a first time buyer. Couple that with the bad economy and the fact that I don't make that much money people aren't exactly lining up to lend me money. I have at least 20% down and decent credit so financing shouldn't be a problem but I probably won't be just showing up with 5grand cash. Which brings me back to my original question of the best way to negotiate this purchase, or any purchase for that matter, from a few hundred miles away?
#5
#6
Tell him over the phone you have $5k, cash. See what his reaction is. If he hesittates, tell him you'll be out to check it out and bring cash money. A lot times cash makes people crazy and sell things for cheap!
#7
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That's how my brother and I do it. Show up with cash or walk away most of the time they bite.
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#8
seems a little off topic but have many of you bought cars through ebay or another method where you had to travel to get the car? Was your experience good or bad?
#10
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That seems like a good deal. If everything comes back clean, of course. Don't be afraid to walk on it. Although it is a good deal, you can get deals like that more often than you think. Especially on craigslist.
I'd approach them with the water pump and timing belt change. I'm sure it's not been done yet. That's $700 right there (dealership charge. Around here, anyway). $4800. If the belt and water pump has been done, then what shape are the tires in? Replaced soon? That's $800. Of course, look over the whole rig first before planning the best point of negotiation. The timing belt cover in the engine bay should have a sticker of the date and mileage the belt was replaced. IF all checks out fine, offer $5,000 anyway. If they refuse, give them your card or number, say you are going to be in town for a couple more hours looking at cars at other dealerships and walk away.
That's what I'd do. Improvise as you wish. Good luck.
I'd approach them with the water pump and timing belt change. I'm sure it's not been done yet. That's $700 right there (dealership charge. Around here, anyway). $4800. If the belt and water pump has been done, then what shape are the tires in? Replaced soon? That's $800. Of course, look over the whole rig first before planning the best point of negotiation. The timing belt cover in the engine bay should have a sticker of the date and mileage the belt was replaced. IF all checks out fine, offer $5,000 anyway. If they refuse, give them your card or number, say you are going to be in town for a couple more hours looking at cars at other dealerships and walk away.
That's what I'd do. Improvise as you wish. Good luck.
#11
I learned a lot when I bought my 4runner. IMO..............most important lesson is to look at the truck and drive the truck. Pictures are a one dimensional version of the actual product............especially from a dealer .
They all look great but driving and feeling tells the truth and I went through
a few before I found a private seller with a well appointed and cared for rig.
Like a home...........I knew it when I walked in the door.
An educated eye can tell a lot about a car from a visual inspection.
wear and tear........scratches, new parts in certain places, oil leaks,
recent repairs or parts replacement etc
Besides........buying from a private seller gets you out of sales tax in most cases........ Kenny S>
They all look great but driving and feeling tells the truth and I went through
a few before I found a private seller with a well appointed and cared for rig.
Like a home...........I knew it when I walked in the door.
An educated eye can tell a lot about a car from a visual inspection.
wear and tear........scratches, new parts in certain places, oil leaks,
recent repairs or parts replacement etc
Besides........buying from a private seller gets you out of sales tax in most cases........ Kenny S>
Last edited by sharrack; 02-08-2009 at 08:09 AM.
#12
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Don't know if your willing to travel, but this has the timing belt done. it's in your price range and it's negotiable.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1025583384.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/1025583384.html
#13
Hey guys, sorry about the re-post, but not getting any info in the Newbie section.
Looking at 2 '98 4runners Sr5 3.4L 4x4's.
Manual $6k USD 160k miles
Auto $7.6k USD 100k miles
Leaning towards manual, even with 60k more miles, better feel on road, less noise. Plus Black looks better than Green.
Could used a wash and interior cleaning.
Manual on new 265/70R16, other on LT 245/75R16. Same stock rims.
Auto has more scrathing Int/Ext, and has rub damage underneath. Rear passenger door doesn't close properly and rattles.
Both had tow hitches mounted, auto's has been recently removed.
Both rear bumpers are rusting on the drivers side, is this a common thing?
Rear seals on both look good, just want to know if there are any other problem areas to look out for.
How do you get a look at the front axle, skid plates covering everything up?
Does the pricing sound okay, or should I keep looking?
Both from local dealers.
Both been sitting in the lot for awhile.
One other thing, the rear badging is opposite on the 2 trucks, what does this mean?
"Toyota" drivers side on first, passenger on auto.
Thanks for any info.
Looking at 2 '98 4runners Sr5 3.4L 4x4's.
Manual $6k USD 160k miles
Auto $7.6k USD 100k miles
Leaning towards manual, even with 60k more miles, better feel on road, less noise. Plus Black looks better than Green.
Could used a wash and interior cleaning.
Manual on new 265/70R16, other on LT 245/75R16. Same stock rims.
Auto has more scrathing Int/Ext, and has rub damage underneath. Rear passenger door doesn't close properly and rattles.
Both had tow hitches mounted, auto's has been recently removed.
Both rear bumpers are rusting on the drivers side, is this a common thing?
Rear seals on both look good, just want to know if there are any other problem areas to look out for.
How do you get a look at the front axle, skid plates covering everything up?
Does the pricing sound okay, or should I keep looking?
Both from local dealers.
Both been sitting in the lot for awhile.
One other thing, the rear badging is opposite on the 2 trucks, what does this mean?
"Toyota" drivers side on first, passenger on auto.
Thanks for any info.
Last edited by Rylee08; 02-15-2009 at 07:36 PM.
#14
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carfax them both and try to get the owner/service history, get the one washed and get a good look at it ,the prices seem decent I guess, know a good mechanic? have him check them out compression etc. I had this done on my runner (purchased out of state, had a local vehicle inspector check it out.) and always go with your "gut" feeling, don't fall in love too soon,plenty of runners out there. good luck and ..... nice hijack
Last edited by y2kltdsport; 02-16-2009 at 07:22 PM.
#15
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60k miles more, but it sounds to be in MUCH better shape. A door that doesn't close properly is never good news... Go for the manual in my opinion.
if you PM me the VIN's, I could theoretically run them for you.
if you PM me the VIN's, I could theoretically run them for you.
#16
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a run through an automated car wash will scare up any sunroof leakage or other sealing problems.
Tacomas always run about $500 more-out here anyways.
pnut and jrb23 both have good strategies.
The more you love a particular vehicle the more you have to learn to walk away from it. If they want to sell it bad enough and you want that particular one you will talk further. If not there will be plenty more to look through.
Tacomas always run about $500 more-out here anyways.
pnut and jrb23 both have good strategies.
The more you love a particular vehicle the more you have to learn to walk away from it. If they want to sell it bad enough and you want that particular one you will talk further. If not there will be plenty more to look through.
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