Crux

Do I need an SST or anything?
All I've got are regular hand tools.

Going to replace my upper and lower ball joints in the next week or so, and I've been trying to read up on how to do it and what tools I need.

Also, does anyone know of any FAQs for replacing the upper/lower ball joints?

Thnx!

Greg'sToy

your 4Runner might be diferent, but on my 2nd gen. pickup, the upper ball joints simply bolt to the upper A arms. the lower ball joints are bolt on too...

Steveh29

Yes. On the 2nd Gen it's easy as pie. All you need is a socket wrench.

jimbo74

i good ratchet strap will fix any other issues you might have.....

disconnecting the bj from the arm is easy, its getting the balljoint out of the spidle that you should use the special tool for... harbor freight has them in different sizes for less than $10.... or if you have tons of money and want to buy tools, Snap-On, Matco, Mac, Etc, also have the balljoint tools....

if you dont really want to buy any tools for it... a pickle fork/hammer will do.... getting super ghetto you can probably get away with jsut a hammer....

have the frame supported on jackstands and let the suspension droop....

farmerj

a pickle fork and a 48 oz shot ballpeen hammer is what I used to get my ball-joints out of the spindle. On one of my lowers I actually has to wedge a 1" open end wrench between the spindle and lower control arm to bust it out.

What I found going to the other side is if you soak the joint in WD-40 of PB Blaster they come apart better.

r0cky

PICKLE FORKkkkkk!

Crux

Ok, so this was a major PITA.

The lower ball joint is a piece of cake.
But the upper ball joint, you have to completely remove the steering knuckle/spindle, disconnect the brake line, take off the hub, calipers, etc, etc.
... all so you can press the ball joint out of the spindel.

I had already disconnected the lower ball joint, brake line, separated the upper ball joint stud from the arm, before I realized I need to pop the hub grease cap and struggle with some kind of 174/lb nut while someone stomps on the brakes...

I bought some cheesy ball joint press (thick C-clamp) from harbor freight to get the upper ball joint out, but I can't use it unless I can get the steering knuckle into a vice.

Now I'm debating just taking it in and having a shop replace the ball joints for me.

I think I'm in a little over my head...

When I disconnected the brake line, 8-16ozs of brake fluid poured out.
To fix this, do I just reattach the line, fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, and pump the brakes until the bleeder screw doesn't have bubbles coming out of it?

gwhayduke

Get a buddy to sit in the vehicle and press on the brake when you tell them.

1. Fill the reservoir.
2. Buddy steps on brake pedal.
3. Open bleeder valve and allow fluid to spurt out. It's best to attach a hose to the bleeder valve and direct the flow into a waste container. If it gets on paint it will damage it.
4. Close valve.
5. Buddy releases brake pedal.
6. Repeat until brake pedal has a solid feel to it. It might be a good idea to just replace all the fluid in the lines with fresh if your vehicle is old. Something I need to do again.
7. Refill reservoir BEFORE it gets down past the "fill" line or you may have to start all over.

If your buddy releases the brake pedal before you close the valve, you'll just suck air back into the system.

Crux

Thanx for that advice gwhayduke.

I finally got the whole thing taken apart, spindle off, and took it to Midas to press out the old ball joints, and press in the new ones.

Got it all put back together, bled the brakes, and now it runs fine.

Only one problem was I couldn't get the nut on one of the lower ball joint studs to tighten (torque) correctly. It probably needed one or two more turns to be really tight. The stud just kept spinning with the castle nut. I think the nut somehow stripped on the ball joint stud. =\

I managed to get half a cotter pin through the castle nut, so hopefully it will be fine.