Epic Ed

I just ordered a TJM T-13 bumper and am wondering what would be the best way to compensate for the extra weight. Currently, I have the stock torsion bars cranked about 1 inch; I have the Downey HD 1 1/2" spings in the back. Running stock length Rancho 5000s up front and RS9000x in the rear.

I plan to add a little extra height over the next few months and my plan was to get the CF 1 1/2" spacers for the rear, the ball joint 1 1/2" spacers on the front, and then do a 1" body lift. Then go from 31" to 32 x 11.50 tires.

Will the stock torsion bars be sufficient to maintain my lift height in front? Or would I be better off going with an aftermarket torsion bar like a SAW or Downey? Any other lift mods or combinations or lifting gadgetry I should consider instead of those mentioned above?

Ed

mt_goat

Sounds like a good plan, I'd just try adjusting the T-bars up a little more to compensate for the extra weight. The ball joint spacers should help too. Then, if you run out of adjustment with the t-bars look at some 26mm bars. Are you putting a winch in too? If so, consider a synthetic winch line with an aluminum fairlead, that will cut the weight a lot.

Epic Ed

No winch for the immediate future. Curious about the angles for my CV joints. I just had manual hubs put on -- my understanding is that any lift up to about 3" should be OK since my front axles will be disengaged during all of my regular drive time. Any worries about running with this kind of lift up front when in 4-wheel drive?

Ed

mt_goat

With manual hubs there are no worries about cv angles while the hubs are unlocked, it's the locked time you need to worry about, unless of course, you never lock them. Yes, there are a lot worries about running 3 inches of lift when in 4wd, unless you have a diff drop or suspension lift that corrects the cv angles.

outdoorfever

well i ordered some heavier torsion bars due to the sagging after i put my arb on. it sagged tremendously even with the stock torsion bars cranked to the fullest so i ordered some stronger ones. i hope only to crank them about an inch from where they are. i will let you know what happens.

mt_goat

Hi Kyle, so did you adjust your bars higher after I adjusted them?

Corey

iTrader: (1)

You do not want 26 mm bars, it will be to rough.
I am running the ARB bumper and a Warn XD 9000 winch on my '91 4Runner.

Ran it that way for a week with stock T bars cranked up previously after rear Downey HD coil installation, and it was bad, almost undrivable.

It will bounce & jounce lie a dolphin with stock T bars, even cranked.
The best bars to get are the SAW 25 mm ones.

It rides great with them.
Stiffer than stock for sure, but total control.
They are cranked up as well, almost 15" from the wheel lip to the bottom of the fender lip.
I am running Aisin hubs, which anyone who cranks up T bars should run to save your CVs.

mt_goat

Corey, when you were running the 26mm bars were you cranking them for lift?

elripster

Just curious, has anyone tried to cure the bouncing with a stiffer shock? This sounds a lot like the extra weight is too much for the shock's dampning to control. Just wondering if one can keep the trail flex but still effectively settle the suspension.

Frank

Robinhood150

That's my thought too. If/when I get an ARB with winch, I'll dial up my 9000s to the stiffest setting to see if that'll control the oscillations, but keep the stock bars.

Cebby

What about front air shocks in conjunction with stock bars?

Robinhood150

That should do the same thing as stiffer tbars, I'd think. Good idea cebby.

mt_goat

They do, especially when you unlink them.

934rnr

I have the 1.5 ball spacers on mine and a TJM T-17 the spacers have been on for a week now and the front is starting to sag with the stock torsion bars. I had to uncrank my torsions orginally when I installed them about 10 times to get the front to go down so it was level with my rear FJ80 coils.
I found now I should probably crank the torsion up 2-3 turns it should be a good ride after that. I wouldn't spend the money on torsion bars unless you want your front end super stiff since you will be without the extra weight of a 85-100lb winch.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I never ran 26 mm T bars, but I think Little Joe the admin over at 4x4 Wire ran them and it was very rough, so he junked them.

He may have tried 25 mm too, but I beleive he now runs stock on his older truck because he has the stock bumper up front.

Another one to ask is John (JD from down under) on the forum.
He's ran several different sizes on his.
In fact he runs the stock T bars with his Ford 5.0 V8 in the rig.

I have also talked to others who have ran them, and they are just to stiff.
The 25 mm are just perfect for me with the weight of the crap I have up front.

I have pretty stiff shocks now, the Edelbrocks.

outdoorfever

[QUOTE=MT.GOAT] Hi Kyle, so did you adjust your bars higher after I adjusted them? [QUOTE]

yes dale i cranked them as much as i could. the front end is still about 1/2 inch below the rear, and ever bump is a bobbing motion for me. i said screw it and ordered the bars.

Epic Ed

Looks like I'll be playing around with the stock torsions for a while to see how it goes. I'd definitely like to avoid spending the extra $$ on the sway-a-ways. Thanks for all the input.

Ed

mt_goat

[QUOTE=outdoorfever][QUOTE=MT.GOAT] Hi Kyle, so did you adjust your bars higher after I adjusted them? When you say bobbing, you mean like worn-out shocks or do you mean like the bars are too stiff to flex now? If the latter, ball joints spacers may be just what the doctor ordered.