hoyt

So I tried jump starting my 01 taco double cab with my welding machine. Too much power! Blew tons of fuses have all fuses replaced tested relays all good when I hook up my battery my blower fan is on my high beams are on stereo etc. keys aren't even in ignition yet. Can smell electronic smell in cab when this is taking place. Can't find burnt wires or warm ones even. Any thoughts??????

MudHippy

Sell it for scrap and buy another truck. Unless you're keen on randomly replacing electronic components and wiring until you find the problem(s). Whatever you do don't try selling it "as is" or as a "fix 'er up 'er". Nobody wants a nightmare like that for any price. You'd be asking for retribution. Do the right thing. Which I guess could be parting it out too. If you've got time for that.

hoyt

Do u know where the relay integration module or something of that nature is located? I'm told to check that out but I cannot locate it

MudHippy

No I don't off hand. But I'm not opposed to helping locate it for you. I should have an FSM that applies. If not I'll look around every other place I can think of. It might take me a little while.

Good on ya for not giving up so easily. I wasn't trying to discourage you necessarily. Just trying to be practical. But It could be a simple fix. I honestly wouldn't know.

Please stand by...

hoyt

thanks for your help any info is greatly appreciated. Love my yota can't give up on er too easy!

MudHippy

I found this in the 2000 Tacoma FSM. It's the closest one I've got. I'll look around some more to see if I can verify it's correct location wise. And I'll look a little further into the wiring diagrams to see if something might explain how you're getting power without the key.

hoyt

Thanks a lot. This gets me headed in the right direction. If I understood how all this stuff works I would be way better off lol

Marc

Just curious, what kind of welder?

hoyt

Lincoln 300D

TheDurk

The integration relay is built in to the back of the fuse panel by drivers knee. This can probably be fixed, but if you are capable of putting a welder on a truck you are probably not the person to attempt it. A quick click shows that welder puts out 30V DC on low, or 2.5 times what the truck takes. It might be way more when feeding a high resistance truck circuit, as opposed to a low resistance welding load. SMH.

To start with, if your truck is wired like a 4Runner, you either fried your key switch or melted stuff together so there is a short. I help a lot of people with electric stuff on t4r.org, but I wouldn't try this. It needs knowledgeable hands on.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I am just paranoid but on these newer cars, I am concerned with jump starting them with another car and jumper cables. Seems like I read somewhere that if not hooked up correctly that it can blow the computers in some cars. What I do if needing to jump start a battery, I will disconnect the battery and let it charge without the terminals connected. Might be over cautious but just how I do it.

hoyt

I do admit a stupid decision to hook it up to the little yota but in my haste and hurry I figured on low output I would be fine ( have started my larger trucks more times than I can count and had to use more output). Hindsight being what it is yeah I'm the dumbest f$&@er you ever heard of.

Now that the criticism is out there, the problem at hand is I can't find a damn thing melted together , hot to touch, warm to touch, or anything saying its "cooked". Which leads me to believe that the integration module, or some other module, may have absorbed the energy and cooked. Or maybe my pcm, or I see a circuit opening relay......
Either way I don't have the knowledge to test or know which way to go but the int. mod seems to control most of the devices that are causing me problems. When I very first started chasing fuses I couldn't even put a new 7.5 fuse in the ecu b spot without it popping.

I really don't want to walk away from it I just don't want to just start randomly replacing expensive parts that don't need replaced.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

That is really brave of you to tell how it happened. Sure we all have done things that we would rather have not admit to.

Electric is my weak area but if I was working on it, I would pick out just 1 of the systems (blower, headlight,stereo...) and trouble shoot it only. It might lead you to the problem. For example, you may need to follow just the blower system thru the harness. Don't get overwhelmed with all the failed systems, just one at a time.

I am guessing that maybe one of the wires have melted to some of the other wires. I know on the older trucks, there are several checks you can do on relays in the manuals.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I know plenty of welders who have done the very same thing.

Only they are to scared to mention it

Myself included but I was doing it to the lawn Mower.

It can be fixed I would love to help if I was close enough .

Nothing is getting warm because all the carnage has already been done contacts in switches and relays are fused fast.

It happened before the circuit protection had a chance to open

I bet you had the welder set to DC Reverse as well

You will never fix this with out a copy of the EWD for your truck. Toyota does have a habit of changing wire colors between years

To me this is a easier fix then a head gasket or timing belt.

hoyt

Thanks for the input. If I can't figure it out soon I may haul it to you!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Have you made any progress or are you looking for the gas can and flare ??

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Just out of curiousity: Why did you think this was a good Idea?

i'll give you $2500

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Time to pull the dash and start tracing. Seems like the ignition wires are shorted out at the column somewhere.

hoyt

Had to walk away from it for the weekend. Back in after work today.....

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If your Close I don`t mind Taking a ride if it gets you some hands on help .

Let me know Shoot me a PM