ARB4STUNNA

I have 97' SR5 4x4 and recently installed OME 881 coils with 2 trim packers on each side up front, and OME 890 coils out back...with OME firm shocks. I currently run 265/75/16 on stock wheels and it looks like there is alot of space for bigger tires. From anyones experience with this set up will 285/75/16 fit with out much rubbing under full stuff?? Or should I wait and get a 1" or 2" BL??
Thanks for any info.

RTdawgs

You should search and read what every other person has to say on this board.

Be careful though, every 4Runner is different. Some will rub, some wont, there are too many variables.

On paper, yes there is room, especially after you trim the necessary pieces, but something strange might through you off.

HaveBlue

You can run 285s, but you'll have to trim away the plastic inner fender on the driver's side. It will rub even when not stuffed with the OME setup.

Personally, I think bodylifts are dangerous. If you hit something just right, you can shist the weight of the body forward on the mounts. And, they involve more labor than installing new coils on the front. I can break down the front suspension in less than an hour. The fastest I've heard someone installing a BL is 4 hours.

User 051420

Ahh...with all due respect, I couldn't disagree more. LOTS of people are running 4Crawler body lifts without ANY issues. They're super easy to install, 2 hours tops.

Back to the question..It would be easiest for you if you were to add a 1"BL to the equation. Also the 891's only yield about 1.5" of lift alone.

ARB4STUNNA

Thanks for the info. I may just get the 285's and if they rub too much, go ahead and add the 1" BL. Does anyone know where I can get a good deal on a 1" BL or wich is best and easiest to insatll?? Thanks again!!

User 051420

The best: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Welcome noob.

BTW guys, what is the biggest size tire I can fit on a stock 3rd gen?

What is the deck plate mod? Who builds a custom rear bumper? How much oil does my engine hold? Where do I crank it? With a key?

4Peanut

I've got your set up, less the trim packers. My fronts rub on the plastic fender liner near the pinch weld on low-speed (5-10 MPH) forward turns, and on the plastic front bumper valence on low speed backward turns.

I plan to add a top out spacer up front as it sits 1/2" lower than the rear. This should help my problem.

Brian

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I was in a traffic accident in my 3" body lifted 1st gen a few years back. Hard enough hit to total the other vehicle and put a huge inch long scratch in the paint on my front bumper. No body shifting and I even took the body lift blocks out a while after that to check on them and the poly bushings and found no damage at all. The key to a strong body lift is matching up the size of the blocks with the size of the body mount bushings (many kits have blocks that are way undersized), keeping the diameter of the center holes to the size of the body mount bolts (many kits use blocks with oversize holes - both the result of mass-produced lift blocks meant to work in many applications) and using hardware that is at least as strong as stock - all of which I use on my body lift kits.

4 hours is a typical body lift kit install, but it can be done in less time, depends on the complexity. Also, no special tools are needed. I once helped install a 3rd gen OME lift kit and two of us spent all day on it and finally had to give up on the front end after my spring compressor would not quite get the new springs compressed enough to install them. Owner took the rig to a shop and they finished the front end in an hour or so with the right kind of compressor.

LarsDennert

33"s: Without a BL, plan on lots of fender pounding if you wheel your rig heavily. Otherwise a spring/spcer lift will do for the street. They'll still rub on the frame at full lock. Might depend on the tires though. Some 33"s run smaller than 33". 285/75/16 Revo's measure 33".