First time 4Runner owner...couple of questions...
#1
First time 4Runner owner...couple of questions...
I recently just purchased my first 4runner and have a couple of questions concerning maintenance of the vehicle. The 4runner is a 1998 limited 4x4 with 112k miles and everything seems to be stock and in excellent condition to my knowledge. The previous owner used a synthetic oil and hasn't replaced the timing belt or water pump etc...I went by my local Toyota dealership last week in regards to replacing the timing belt and water pump...long story short a Toyota service guy handed me a service price sheet with some service packages. Seeing how the 4runner has high mileage , i am especially concerned with the transmission...what should be done? I would like to know what you guys think i should do? I plan on driving this vehicle another 100k miles and want to take care of it the best of my capability.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Welcome to Yotatech!!!
Your tranny should be fine. I have a '98 w/ 150,000 and the tranny is doing great. I got it flushed and filled about 5,000 miles ago and it's runnin strong. My sister just got a '99 Limited w/ 140,000 on it and the tranny is also fine. As long as it's shifting smooth and the fluid looks good, I wouldn't worry about it.
The real concern is the timing belt. I'm actually getting mine done tomorrow... but if you have 112,000 miles and it hasn't been done, it's about time. Some people go longer than that, but it's a guessing game. If it fails then it'll screw a lot of stuff up with it.
So I'd get the timing belt and water pump done, maybe change some fluids, and call it good. Unless you notice anything strange.
Best of luck! You'll definitely enjoy your new 4Runner! I've had mine for about 8 months now and it's definitely the best car I've ever owned!
Your tranny should be fine. I have a '98 w/ 150,000 and the tranny is doing great. I got it flushed and filled about 5,000 miles ago and it's runnin strong. My sister just got a '99 Limited w/ 140,000 on it and the tranny is also fine. As long as it's shifting smooth and the fluid looks good, I wouldn't worry about it.
The real concern is the timing belt. I'm actually getting mine done tomorrow... but if you have 112,000 miles and it hasn't been done, it's about time. Some people go longer than that, but it's a guessing game. If it fails then it'll screw a lot of stuff up with it.
So I'd get the timing belt and water pump done, maybe change some fluids, and call it good. Unless you notice anything strange.
Best of luck! You'll definitely enjoy your new 4Runner! I've had mine for about 8 months now and it's definitely the best car I've ever owned!
#4
Registered User
NO NO NO NO. Do not go to the dealer for that servicing. That maint schedule they gave you is NOT what the factory says. Go by the factory service recommendations in the book in your glovebox. Also...yes the tbelt should be done at 90k and the w/p done only if its leaking. Don't stress it because if your belt does fail it WON'T mess anything up. This is not an interferance motor. See if you can find a reputable independant shop that specializes in toyotas or if you need to go to the dealer, tell them to ONLY do the factory recommened maint by your book
#6
Contributing Member
Don't forget hoses/belts if they're needed since they've gotta be taken off to get to the tb/wp. Shouldn't cost anything extra in labor. At least the 3.4's not an interference engine, but you're still stranded if the belt goes.
The only thing I've noticed tranny-wise is a few posts about "strawberry milkshake". Do a search on it, makes for interesting reading. Not epidemic, just interesting.
Welcome to the fun.
The only thing I've noticed tranny-wise is a few posts about "strawberry milkshake". Do a search on it, makes for interesting reading. Not epidemic, just interesting.
Welcome to the fun.
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#8
Services are usually expensive for what they do at the dealer.Usually doing services individually will save money or get what you REALLY need done,done.I am planning to do a service on a friend of mine's 99'(about same mileage as yours,not much done besides the basics ever done to it).I just did mine last year.This is what I did.And what I plan to do on his 99'.
-T-belt,water pump,thermostat,drive belts(3),drain and fill coolant(toyota red).(did not do seals or idlers,were in great shap at 107k).-no reason to do t-belt w/o water pump,99% of time waterpump(bearing goes out) causes t-belt failure.
-air filter,clean maf,clean throttle body,replace pvc,replace pvc gromet.
-spark plugs,(valve cover gaskets and gromets,spark plug tube seals,nice kit from napa),were just starting to leak in corners.
-Drain and fill,front diff,transfer,trans,rear diff,lube drive shafts.flushed brake fluid(only flush you should ever pay for,imho)
-front brake pads,replaced rear shoes,replaced rear axle seals,extended breather tube.(still fighting the leak,I need to get tools for my perss to fix this once and for all,saving for another topic).
-replaced wiper blades,license plate bulbs and brake light bulbs(one of each were out).
It was something like 600$ in parts or so,since I did it all myself.
Just to give you an idea of what is needed once just the basics are done to a vehical.Good for another 100k....besides plugs,fluids,filter,ect.
oh,and no fuel filter was done.not really needed.you can save some there.I am sure the dealer wants you to do one.Besides the flushes they push,this is another big unnessarly $$$ maker for them.
-T-belt,water pump,thermostat,drive belts(3),drain and fill coolant(toyota red).(did not do seals or idlers,were in great shap at 107k).-no reason to do t-belt w/o water pump,99% of time waterpump(bearing goes out) causes t-belt failure.
-air filter,clean maf,clean throttle body,replace pvc,replace pvc gromet.
-spark plugs,(valve cover gaskets and gromets,spark plug tube seals,nice kit from napa),were just starting to leak in corners.
-Drain and fill,front diff,transfer,trans,rear diff,lube drive shafts.flushed brake fluid(only flush you should ever pay for,imho)
-front brake pads,replaced rear shoes,replaced rear axle seals,extended breather tube.(still fighting the leak,I need to get tools for my perss to fix this once and for all,saving for another topic).
-replaced wiper blades,license plate bulbs and brake light bulbs(one of each were out).
It was something like 600$ in parts or so,since I did it all myself.
Just to give you an idea of what is needed once just the basics are done to a vehical.Good for another 100k....besides plugs,fluids,filter,ect.
oh,and no fuel filter was done.not really needed.you can save some there.I am sure the dealer wants you to do one.Besides the flushes they push,this is another big unnessarly $$$ maker for them.
Last edited by 97ltd4x4; 01-02-2008 at 07:56 AM.
#10
tranny--- drain and fill every 10-15k miles no matter what! this will keep good fluid in.. its only 4-5 qts a pop. i do it every 3rd oil change. if you keep good fluid in there this will help the life in the long run imo.. M1 and maxlife are good atf's
#11
a local shop said they wanted $550 for the timing belt which includes some minor bells and whistles / $784 for the water pump! WOWZORS! the Toyota dealership will do the timing belt for $360 / water pump $225 / drive belt $60. i think i am going with the dealership...
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Welcome Doc! Just some thought on the belt and pump, my dealership does timing belt specials all the time. V6 is $259 plus the part. Also look on your radiator top or on the timing belt cover. Most Toyota dealerships when they do the service will put a sticker on one of those two locations so you KNOW when the last time it was done. If you purchased from a private party, ask them where they got it serviced and if it was done. Also if you know when and where just contact that dealership and ask about any service records for your truck. Same thing for one you purchased from a dealer. Lots of times the trade in to Toyota dealer is from a previous customer who had it serviced there. Just ask! Some times having the dealer do the work for you may seem expensive, but what is your time worth? if you are not mechnically inclined to perform certain maintenance items, its worth the time to have them do it. I have a 98 SR5 that I have basically made into a limited (and still working on that) so I know what sort of things you are going to be looking at. Some things to consider are a couple of mods I just completed, the Cup holder mod, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f126...er-mod-132960/ and the Corner blinker mod https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127...unners-132969/
Go to the tech section and you can find several more interesting and fun upgrades and performance mods for your 4Runner. Enjoy the ride and welcome to the Forum!
Go to the tech section and you can find several more interesting and fun upgrades and performance mods for your 4Runner. Enjoy the ride and welcome to the Forum!
#13
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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What's Up Doc...?
Hey Doc,
don't take this the wrong way ...yet throw out the "dealer recomended" service intervals sheet and stick with what "toyota" recomends
1) TIMING BELT: Yea see if there is a Timing belt sticker on the T.B housing.....? It sounds like you know the TB wasent done? My dealer charged me 299.00 for the TB and included all outside belts....My water pump was not changed yet it is very common for the gasket to start to leak as the old design used a paper gasket, and if you have a new W.P put on, it should be a metal gasket.
ALSO this is NOT OPTIONAL:
FYI THERE IS A NON RESUABLE BOLT THAT NEEDS THE BE REPLACED AND TORQUED TO 217 foot pounds (thats a lot of torque).....BUY THIS BOLT FROM THE DEALER PARTS DESK AND DONT BE BASHFUL to HAND IT TO THE DEALER TECH OR INDEPENDANT TECH YOUR SELF..Why the CAPS? If the crank bolt is not REPLACED and torqued to proper specs, the bolt can loosen up, causing the harmonic balancer to loosen up, followed by a loose crank gear, causing erratic signals to the crank sensor, causing VERY poor performance and decreased MPG.
2) Spark plugs: on these vehicles are Supposto be changed every 30K Miles and you can likely go 40K....yet not 70 k, get my drift? And remember, if you go too long on old plugs you will have some scarry engine noises.... Remember only Duel electrode sparkplugs should be used (Denso or NGK's)
3) TRANS "Drain and fill" 4 quarts of "TOYOTA ATF" every 5K for the next 25 K....Your trans has about 16quarts of fluid in it... And its not always a good idea to 100% flush on a older transmission....If the past guy was investing in synthetic oil he probably took care of his rig...Make susre they do NOT OVERFILL or under fill your trans.... DO NOT PAY MORE THAN $25.00 to 30.00 for a trans "drain and fill" as it is less complicated than a simple Oil change....the only difference is that they have to refill the 4 quarts via the trans dipstick tube and that takes a few minutes... Tell them to be careful NOT to strip the dam trans pan by overtightning the bolt....in case you are dealing with a "monkey boy"...happened to me
4) Lubercate the drive shaft with a non "Moly" Chassis grease ( Double cardans and universal joints) I prefer Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease....
5) drain and fill the Rear differential, transfer case and front Differential with Mobil 1 Synthetic and youll be good for another 50K
6) Continue with the Synthetic Oil as it is just plain better oil to run I Prefer Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 oil filter ...You'll pay more yet you can get at least 7500 worry free miles from mobil one oil. SYN Costs more, protects better, you'll have to change it less and that my friend = money savings...
Dont worry SYN is lab tested and will go the distance on extended drain intervals....
good luck
don't take this the wrong way ...yet throw out the "dealer recomended" service intervals sheet and stick with what "toyota" recomends
1) TIMING BELT: Yea see if there is a Timing belt sticker on the T.B housing.....? It sounds like you know the TB wasent done? My dealer charged me 299.00 for the TB and included all outside belts....My water pump was not changed yet it is very common for the gasket to start to leak as the old design used a paper gasket, and if you have a new W.P put on, it should be a metal gasket.
ALSO this is NOT OPTIONAL:
FYI THERE IS A NON RESUABLE BOLT THAT NEEDS THE BE REPLACED AND TORQUED TO 217 foot pounds (thats a lot of torque).....BUY THIS BOLT FROM THE DEALER PARTS DESK AND DONT BE BASHFUL to HAND IT TO THE DEALER TECH OR INDEPENDANT TECH YOUR SELF..Why the CAPS? If the crank bolt is not REPLACED and torqued to proper specs, the bolt can loosen up, causing the harmonic balancer to loosen up, followed by a loose crank gear, causing erratic signals to the crank sensor, causing VERY poor performance and decreased MPG.
2) Spark plugs: on these vehicles are Supposto be changed every 30K Miles and you can likely go 40K....yet not 70 k, get my drift? And remember, if you go too long on old plugs you will have some scarry engine noises.... Remember only Duel electrode sparkplugs should be used (Denso or NGK's)
3) TRANS "Drain and fill" 4 quarts of "TOYOTA ATF" every 5K for the next 25 K....Your trans has about 16quarts of fluid in it... And its not always a good idea to 100% flush on a older transmission....If the past guy was investing in synthetic oil he probably took care of his rig...Make susre they do NOT OVERFILL or under fill your trans.... DO NOT PAY MORE THAN $25.00 to 30.00 for a trans "drain and fill" as it is less complicated than a simple Oil change....the only difference is that they have to refill the 4 quarts via the trans dipstick tube and that takes a few minutes... Tell them to be careful NOT to strip the dam trans pan by overtightning the bolt....in case you are dealing with a "monkey boy"...happened to me
4) Lubercate the drive shaft with a non "Moly" Chassis grease ( Double cardans and universal joints) I prefer Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease....
5) drain and fill the Rear differential, transfer case and front Differential with Mobil 1 Synthetic and youll be good for another 50K
6) Continue with the Synthetic Oil as it is just plain better oil to run I Prefer Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 oil filter ...You'll pay more yet you can get at least 7500 worry free miles from mobil one oil. SYN Costs more, protects better, you'll have to change it less and that my friend = money savings...
Dont worry SYN is lab tested and will go the distance on extended drain intervals....
good luck
Last edited by icerunner; 01-08-2008 at 03:09 AM.
#14
Registered User
Not sure where you are getting your info from. Maybe you should double check
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