Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Just got in my Field Monitor Unit from a guy in New Zealand. I have started the install using the basic information provided by Rockslide and Midiwall.

A few things I have noted right off is that there are some things that will seem to be 'no brainers'. Some not so easy. I am going to document this install as I progress so this will not be a simple 1, 2, 3, plug and play, 40 minute install. I want to keep this as simple as possible and would also like to post the step by step instructions for the next person. I have read the posts by the 3 who have done this mod. I have to tell you, I am a visual/concrete learner much more then an abstract learner (people who can just read something and get it). Knowing this, my install will most likely take me at least a week! But I attribute the time to the fact I will make notes, take pictures and try to do this so that I can post the information here. One thing I learned in 6 years as a Navy Instructor, if there is one person with a question, then that means there are at least 2 others who have the same question and are just too scared to ask. So I will ask!

I unfortuntely do not have a FSM for my 98 4Runner (FSM=Factory Service Manual) but if anyone here has one they don't need anymore and want to sell cheap (shameless plug) I would be more then happy to give it a very good home! Back to my thread, I don't know how to disassemble some of what may seem obvious to some here so I will ask. Please remember I need instructions. It may seem elementary, but I mean hold my hand and point everything out! LOL! Never assume the other person understands what you already know. Ok I have dragged this on too much already.

I noted in one of the write ups about the different plugs, different wires and different controls. I will be describing the process for my 98 4runner, SR5 with a sunroof, there are two units mounted in the roof between the windshield and the sunroof. One is the map light console, the other is for the sunroof controls. The sunroof control console has a flip down door. Pop this open and you will note a single large phillips head screw. Removal of this screw allows you to lower the control console. You should be able to just slide it out of it mounting in the head liner. This will allow access to the 6 pin connector. This connector is not just a simple pull apart connector. It has an interlocking tab on the top of the connector which needs to be lifted at the same time you are trying to pull the connector apart. I used a small flat blade screw driver. You may be able to use your fingernail to accomplish this task.

The second console is the combination map light control and rear view mirror mounting. There is a small 'U' shaped plastic fitting that just snaps in place around the mirror shaft. To remove this part, a small flat blade screw driver once again is a great wedge to slip in between the front edge and just give it a gentle pry and it should just pop out. With this removed, you will now need to slip the blade between the headliner and the collar of the console. The collar of the console has several snap clips around the bottom edge that hold the plastic cover in place. Gently pry the edges in several locations, just slowly work your way around the edge and once you have two of the clips free you should be able to just grasp the console cover and it will come right off. Unlike some models of 4Runner, this model uses a single all in one unit for mounting both the map light console and the rear view mirror. The screws attaching the unit to the roof are easily seen. Two of them are located on either side of the rear view mirror shaft.

Using a phillips head screw driver, remove those screws and the unit will be easily removed by pulling slightly down and backwards. The small connector that provides power to the map lights can just be pulled out of the metal base. This metal base will need to be cut apart as described by Midiwall. The two screws that were removed earlier will be used to secure the rear view mirror back in place. The FMU has a cutout in the cover that fits around the mirror perfectly. More on this step later

The single pin plug removed from the map light console does not correspond to either plug on the Field Monitor Unit (FMU). Midiwall pointed out in his writeup what he did with the single pin connector. He stated "The sunroof portion of the Surf console requires a source of constant 12v for the map lights. This is easily obtained from the old 12v connector that was used for the original map lights. In fact, you can do like I did and pop the pin out of the stock connector, do a bit of mashing on it, and it will fit into the open spot on the Surf connector. Voila... Done!" Not quite sure what he means by popping the pin out mashing it a bit and putting it in the Surf connector. I'll get back to you on this.

The sunroof console is a bit more straight forward. The connector for the sunroof is a 6 pin connector using 5 wires. This connector corresponds to the same 6 pin connector on the FMU sunroof control. The 98 4runner connector only uses 5 of the six pin locations. My 98 has the dual controls, one for slide the other for tilt. This is the same configuration for the FMU. I test fitted the plug for the sunroof and the FMU and it operated the sunroof just like it is supposed to. The map lights are a different issue. The used 6th pin location of r the FMU seems to be for a ground wire. The map light console for the 98 has a seperate grounding wire as there are two different consoles where the FMU is a combination unit. I will need to figure out the best reroute of the ground wire and some configuration to utilize the sixth pin location for the map light 12 vdc. More to follow

The next issue I am struggling with is how and where the wires will need to be routed. As for the temp sensor, running the wires down the A pillar seems simple enough, but how does one do that? I have no idea how to take the pillar apart to route the wires. How do you route the wires to the other locations such as the dash light dimmer, speed sensor line etc. This is like real estate, location, location, location.

Anyway, I will post more about this mod/install as it progresses. And about posting pics, If I can ever figure out how to get the pics from my camera to be viewable here then I will post them. I really do not have the computer savy to know just how to do that just yet. Yeah I know there are directions here on the forum, but if you don't have a place to put the pics, makes it kinda hard to upload them here. So if you have information, suggestions or instructions, please remember just because what seems simple to you, may not be simple to others. Knowledge is easy when you already know it

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

Wow, sounds like you're off to a good start.

As far as routing the wires, here's what I did:

First, you'll need to remove the driver side "A" pillar. You should have an "oh crap" handle bolted to it. Pop off the two tabs on either side of the handle and you'll see 2 bolts holding the handle to the frame. Unbolt them...however, this is by no means easily done. Toyota used some type of blue lock-tite on the bolts, so removing them is a PITA! You might not be able too remove them, and if so, I'll describe that later.

Once the handle is off, the A-pillar trim is just held in by tabs. Now pop it off.

Next, I took a metal coat hanger and unwound it to make a straight piece of metal. I taped 4 wires of the FM that needed to be routed through the headliner to one end of the coat hanger using electrical tape. Then I fed the other end of the coat hanger through the hole in the headliner where the new FM would be installed and out to the driver side door running parallel to the windshield.

Okay, I was only able to remove 1 of the 2 bolts that held the "oh crap" handle on and therefore could not entirely remove the A-pillar trim. Once I fed my coat hanger entirely through the headliner, I then took it and managed to route it down the A-pillar (between the frame and trim) and out to the floorboard.

I then took the wire that was to be tapped into the clock, removed it from the coat hanger and routed it behind the dash and spliced it into the appropriate clock wire. (You'll need to remove the trim around the radio and AC controls to access the clock wiring.) I then soldered the FM wire to the clock wire and taped it up to finish it.

EDIT:

Forgot that I had to route a wire from the FM to the ABS Unit under the dash too. First, locate your ABS unit. On my '02, it's located under the dash on the driver side. I believe in older model 4Runners, it's located some where on the passenger side of the vehicle. Now take the Green/Orange wire coming off the FM (that's already been routed down the A-pillar) and tap it to the ABS Grey/Blue wire. (It will be the Grey wire w/ a blue stripe on the ABS unit. You could also say it’s the Blue wire w/ a Grey stripe on it .)

If you're unsure about the ABS unit or where's it located, you may need to pick up a service manual or stop by your local toy dealer and ask if they can print you out some illustrations of it.

*EDIT OVER*


Now, for the temp sensor wires. I cut the coat hanger in half to make it shorter. With he temp sensor wires still attached to my now shorter coat hanger, I then ran the coat hanger through a hole in the firewall where all the other electrical wires run through. I also put some black silicone on both the engine side of this hole and cab side of this hole to keep out any water from leaking in. Look under your dash, you'll see where all the wires route through the firewall. Otherwise, drill a new hole and route your wires through it.

Once the 2 temp sensor wires were now in the engine bay, I removed the coat hanger and threw it away. I then soldered the 2 FM wires to the appropriate temp sensor wires and mounted the temp sensor close to the battery.

It will be difficult to get exact temp readings at all times, b/c the temp sensor is also picking up heat from your engine. Therefore, I have not find the "perfect" mounting point for the temp sensor.




Visit PhotoBucket.com You can create a free account with them. Their site is very "user friendly". Upload your pictures to their site. You'll see a blank box w/ the word "browse" out to the side. Click it and find your pictures. Once you have some to upload, click the big button that says "UPLOAD". Once your pictures have uploaded, you'll see three links under each picture in your folder.

The top link is a URL link. The next is a HTML Tag link. The third is a IMG Code link.

Simply, single click the IMG Code link (doing so will automatically copy it for you), Then flip over to yotatech and paste the link in a thread. That's it.

Gotta run. I'll check this thread tomorrow if you have any questions.

MillerPKA

great writeup! i'll definitely bookmark it in the slim chance i can actually get my hands on one

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Update: Found out that Rock Slide is correct on the "Oh SH**" handles on the A pillar. The little covers do just pop off but even with power screw driver, I stripped both the phillips slots right out. Now can't tighten them. Will have to figure out a recovery plan now. Looking at cutting single slot with dremel wheel and even if I have to gring the head off, I'll remove the pillar and then use vice grips to remove the remaining studs, get new bolts and fit it back up after running the wires.

I got an email from my New Zealand guy and he told me exactly where the temp sensor was mounted on the Surf. Seems Toyota mounts the sensor behind the front bumper just to the left of the left headlight. I crawled under the truck to have a look see and there is several places that this could be done without too much issue. Routing the wires would be easy as well as there is also the small cable run for the the turn signals/headlight wires. Followed them back to the firewall so this would coincide with Rock Slide's routing of his wires through the firewall. Just rout a pair of 22 gauge stranded wire (courtesy of Radio Shack) from the roof, 'A' pillar, firewall, out to the front left side, use some tiny nylon wire ties and it will be a done deal.

Got the creeping crude really bad so I may be delayed a few days with the next update on progress. Till then ...

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

That's good to know...I need to look under or around my TJM and see if I can mount my sensor in that same area to get a more accurate reading. As it is right now, the temp sensor gives accurate readings on the freeway, because outside air flows into the engine at a high rate of speed. However, when the 4Runner is parked, it picks up the heat from the engine and trys to tell me it's a 120 degs outside . The bumper mount should be a good fix.

Just remember, try not to mount this temp sensor in a spot that gets hit with direct air flow from the outside. For example, if you drive on the freeway at a high rate of speed and it's already cold outside, the temp sensor will be hit with a constant strong force of air. Thus causing the temp readings to state it's colder outside than it really is. This air will be much colder than the air if around your vehicle if you were parked.

Oh and I have not forgot your email. I'll get to responding to that very soon.

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Rock Slide. I figured out a solution to the issue with getting the 'Oh Sh**' handle screws out ... duh! Impact screw driver! It was sooo simple, but only on the upper screw. Had to use my son to help with that third hand. I had to hold the impact in the screw, use a long large punch through the steering wheel and THEN strike the punch. Took several really good hits but my son felt the impact start to turn and we got it loose. The A-pillar was easier then I thought too, Lifted the edge with my fingers and started to lift it and part of it popped loose and then I could see how the clips were holding it in place so the rest was cake.

Routed the wires through the roof to the pillar and then rough figured the distance and then added three feet. I will have to check the other wires and the ones you described (ABS and clock). So do I need seperate wires for the ABS and clock? right now everything is still disassembled so any other wires I need to route, now is the time to do it.

One other little tid bit. On my Runner, there were two consoles, one for the mirror/map lights and one for the sun roof control. The sun roof control was so simple, it was literally plug and play. Note that the control for the 98 has only 5 wires were the Surf was 6. The colors of the wires is not the same but their function is. The missing wire on the 98 is the power for the Surf map lights. I took the single plug from the mirror console and removed it intact and then cut the wires to the lamps. I only needed one to tap into the #6 wire on the Surf plug, so the other I just curled back on itself, electrical tape and tucked it back into the plug. Spliced the plug wire into the Surf connector at wire #6 (grey wire) and then did a test plug fit. Every thing works PERFECT! One more thing I did was to replace the FMU sun roof switching with my 98. The FMU is grey, while my interior and consoles it that Oak tan. There are some subtle differences in the hardware but the functions are the same. More on that as I go.

Once the swap is complete I will begin the wiring of the the remaining plug from the FMU. Any suggestions on getting to the clock and ABS would be huge. I will take the lower dash panel off as well as the center console today to try to get at the clock and will go by Toyota to see if they can help me location of the ABS.

I have been taking pictures and notes. I will post progress here but when it is all done, I will post a separate writeup complete with all the pictures. I hope this will be help for the next person who attempts this.

One last question, what would be the best paint to use on the plastic cover of the FMU? I used some Rustoleum, but its flaking already so before I get this completed, I will redo the painting so I don't have to worry about flakes! Thats all for now!

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got the "oh crap" handle off...those are a pain to remove!

Okay, as far as the ABS and clock wire go: Yes, you will need to have one wire from the FM connect to a specific wire on the dash clock. Second, you will need to have one wire from the FM connect to a specific wire on the ABS unit. Third, you will need to have 2 wires connect from the FM to connect to the temp sensor you plan on mounting somewhere around the front bumper area. So really, it's only 4 wires that had to be routed on my setup.

All the other wires of the FM simply tap into the existing wiring in the headliner that powered your OEM sunroof.


Getting to the clock simply requires the removal of the piece of trim around it and the radio. Here's a tech article on replacing your radio, but it has pics showing you how to remove everything: How To. Maybe even this one too: Another How To. I simply ran the clock wire under the dash and tapped into the appropriate wire right behind the clock.

Once you have the large piece of trim off that surrounds the radio, you'll see how easy it is to get your FM wire from the bottom of the A-piller under the dash, routed neatly under the steering wheel and up to behind the clock.


I'm no expert painter by any means, but you might want to try some type of spray paint designed for "plastics". Just a thought.

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

I have pretty much my entire dash and center console apart in the floor board of my 4runner. I have access to the clock now and even pulled the glove box to get to the ECU which on my 98 is located behind the dash on the passenger side. With the glove box removed I can get access to the wire bundles that come out of the ECU if I cut away some of the black insulating tape. As for the ABS unit, is that the same unit that controls the braking system? I need to know which wires specifically I need to access/splice into. The clock will be a piece of cake, but I am getting confused now on the tap off for the motion sensor of the vehicle. I understand the FMU needs to know when the vehicle is in motion, one write up said to use a tap off from the ECU pin 10 (what wire is that?) for the e-locker, well I don't have an e-locker so I guess that is not going to work. I will pull up the other write ups again and see if I can figure this out. Hope I can get some headway today. I hate not having my truck!

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Update: Got the temp sensor mounted and wires routed. Was a pretty simple install. Removed the canister which is located in the fender well of the left front tire. There are a few holes in the framing of the fenderwell which worked out brilliantly for mounting. The sensor has a small orientation tab on the mounting flange. I was able to position it using the selected hole, marked the location for the drill and then drilled out the hole. Flipped the sensor to the front side, bolt lock washer, nut job done! Spliced the wires onto the sensor plug and just snapped it into place. Was able to locate the clock wire Rock Slide mentioned which happens to be BLUE/RED and is the top wire on the clock plug. A constant source of 12vdc. Routed the wire under the dash,used mini wire tyes and spliced it into the clock circuit.

Finished the swap of the OEM Oak tan sun roof control switches as well. Had to cut and splice the control power to the map lights onto the same wire on the OEM connector so did a test fit and every thing works like it should. Now I will need to get some help on some of the hook up of wires on the FM connector. 12v constant is set with wire to clock, I have a wire run for the motion detection but don't know where that is supposed to specifically connect to. I have emails out and hope to get responses soon. Just a few issues I have that I need to sort out. I could have this in and running this weekend! Will prefit the FMU outer case so I can tell where I will need to trim the head liner away for a flush fit. Preliminary fit shows mount hole lines up so that will be sweet! More to follow.

For Rock Slide and Midiwall: Guys my real questions are about hook up of about 5 of the FMU connector wires. This is the 9 wire connector. 12vdc constant I have the clock wire routed to the opening, temp sensor is routed and read to connect. Ignition, dimmer(2 connections)and ground are still issues. Hope someone can help me with these.

Thanks again to all who are watching and feel free to post impressions and responses. As I mentioned, once I am done I will figure out how to post my pics of this and do a write up post with the pics

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Update: Installed the temp sensor behind the left front bumper below the head light. Was super easy. REmoved the canister that is located in the left front fender well exposing prime location for the Temp Sensor. Used existing hole to to act as the alignment tab for the sensor. Marked a hole location and drilled it out. Placed sensor on the front side of the fender well, bolt, lockwasher, nut and then wired the plug with the sensor wires I routed through the firewall and zip tied to the existing lighting wire run.

Guess everyone is away this weekend so I have not been able to do anything more so my truck is still apart ... Really wanted to finish this up this weekend, oh well, I will wait till everyone gets back, I just need to know if I messed up and hooked the clock wire up wrong. I need to know exactly what wires were used in the ECU (ABS??) and the clock. Thanks

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the ABS Unit controls the braking system. I remember reading somewhere that on early model 3rd gens, the ABS Unit was located behind the passenger-side kick panel. Will you remove your pass-side kick panel and verify this?

As far as which wires specifically you need to access/splice into on the ABS Unit, it's the Gray/Blue wire located at it. If I remember correctly, it is the only Gray/Blue wire attached to it. (It will be the Grey wire with a Blue stripe on it at the ABS unit. You could also say it is a Blue wire with a Grey stripe on it .)



Not sure about that. I don't have an e-locker either so I tapped the speed sensing wire off the FM into the ABS Unit Gray/Blue wire. (Do not remember which PIN location it is though.)



On my setup, the Green wire coming off the White Plug of the Field Monitor, taps into the Green # 3 wire on the back of the clock in the dash.

In a weird way, the clock ties into the headlights. If you notice your clock?s display, it is very bright when your headlights are turned off. However, as soon as your turn them on, your clock display dims. When the proper wire is tapped from the FM to the clock, your FM display will be bright when your headlights are off and they will dim when your headlights are on. It is nice to have it work this way, so at night, the lights of the FM are not over powering the cab of the vehicle.



I will try to explain the wiring more in a minute.

As far as the motion detection, see above comment on ABS wire.

On a personal note, I work on a computer roughly 50 hrs a week, so I very rarely check my email (or even get on the internet), during the weekend. I will say, I was on the internet for a minute this past weekend, but it was for work purposes. I am not coming down on your or anything of the sort, I just wanted to let you know, my weekends are filled, so don?t look for too much info out of me on during those days . I don?t mind helping as much as I can though.



Glad to hear you got your temp sensor mounted too! I moved mine from the engine bay to behind the front bumper yesterday afternoon. Did not officially mount it, just zip tied it to the truck right behind the bumper. Zip tying it only might not the best way to mount it, but if I need to quickly remove it I can. I plan on mounting it in different spots in order to find the most effective mounting place that will generate the most accurate readings regardless of the outside conditions of the vehicle. I can verify that by just moving it out from the engine bay, to behind the bumper, it has greatly reduced the temp readings. This spots provides more accurate readings while the vehicle is stopped.

As for the remaining FM wires, it can be tricky to explain it?the reason I say that, it took me a while to figure out what both Midiwall & Soljah were telling me all along. For some reason, it just did not click right away. After reading the directions over and over and over, it finally clicked! With that being said, here goes. Below are a couple pictures and an excerpt from my original FM write-up:


Take a look at this picture:




Do you see the Blue Plug coming out of my headliner? Okay, from there, it connects to the other Blue Plug (both male and female blue plugs are connected in the picture above). Now, most of those wires coming out of the Blue Plug connect to the Sunroof Switch Control Unit (that big white looking part). The remaining few wires connect to the map lights to make them work properly.


Okay, now look at this picture:





The White Plug I am holding in the picture above, is the female end. It plugs into the male end on the FM like so:





Now if you unplug, you should have some wires coming out of it that have obviously been cut. At the back of this female White Plug, the wires coming out of it look like so:





The wires above are mounted as so:

TOP ROW - from left to right:
1. Blue wire
2. Yellow/Black wire
3. Green/Orange wire
4. White/Red wire
5. Blue/Yellow wire

BOTTOM ROW - from left to right:
1. White/Black wire
2. "Flesh" tone wire *See below
3. Blue/White wire *See below
4. Green wire
5. Empty

*Both the Blue/White wire and "Flesh" tone colored wire are not attached. (The "Flesh" tone colored wire is probably considered White, but compared to my other wires that have a bit of white on them, it does not look white at all.) I do not know where these 2 wires go. They do not effect the FM?s operation though.

If you understand the above, that means that only 7 wires are being used. You already know where four of them go: 2 to the temp sensor, 1 to the clock and 1 to the ABS Unit. Now you only have 3 wires left. I tapped the 3 remaining wires into specific wires on my Blue Plug. See below.

The buddy of mine that I picked this FM up from, cut the wires about 10 inches from the White Plug (pictured above), so I would have a decent amount of wiring to work with. With that being said, below are the wiring directions These wires not only make the field monitor operate correctly, but to also make the sunroof and dome light switches work as well:

Now when I refer to certain wires as ?coming off the Blue Plug? as seen below, I am referring to the Blue Plug that connects to my Sunroof Switch Control Unit (that big white looking part) and to the map lights. I am not referring to the wires that go from the Blue Plug up and into the headliner.


Take each wire and connect it to its corresponding wire as so:

Field Monitor:
1. Blue/Yellow wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, taps into the Gray wire coming off the Blue Plug.
2. White/Black wire coming off the female end of the White Plug (this wire also could also be Gray), taps into the Black/Red wire coming off the Blue Plug.
3. White/Red wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, taps into the Red wire coming off the Blue Plug.
Clock:
4. Green wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, taps into the Green # 3 wire on the back of the clock in the dash.
Temp Sensor:
5. Blue wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, connects to your Air Temp Sensor. (This Sensor needs to be installed behind the front bumper. It contains 2 wires. See next step for second wire connection.)
6. Yellow/Black wire coming off the female end of the White Plug connects to your Air Temp Sensor.
Speed Sensor:
7. Green/Orange wire coming off the female end of the White Plug, taps into the Grey/Blue wire located at the ABS Unit. (It will be the Grey wire with a Blue stripe on it at the ABS unit. You could also say it is the Blue wire with a Grey stripe on it.)
Sunroof Controls:
9. Blk/Red wire coming off the Blue Plug, taps into the Grey ground wire at the Sunroof Light Switch on the Field Unit.
10. Gray wire coming off the Blue Plug, taps into the White/Black wire on the Sunroof Light Switch.


For future reference, listed below is a more simplistic wiring diagram of the one above:

-Blue/Yel to constant 12 Volt
-Whi/Red to Switch 12v (ignition)
-Grn/Org to Speed sensor
-Blue to outside air temp sensor
-Yel/Blk to outside air temp sensor
-Whi/Blk to ground
-Green to dash clock (illumination)
-White to sunroof switch light dimmer
-Blu/White to sunroof switch light dimmer


Hope that helps you better understand the inner workings of this unit.

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the tutor. I seem to have a better understanding on this now. I went out and checked my clock wires. I seem to have messed up. First there are four wires. I took a multi-meter and checked them for 12vdc. here is what I got:
Blue/Yellow-constant 12vdc
White/Black-GRD (ground)
Green - light on 12vdc/light off 0vdc
Grey - ignition on 12vdc/ign off 0vdc

Seems the wire you mentioned you need for the dimmer is the Green wire. I have mine connected to constant power. I can either redo the constant 12vdc to the FMU or switch it over at the clock and use the Green wire. I do have a source of 12vdc constant as I used the OEM plug for the map lights and I had two wires going from the source to the OEM map lights. When I hooked the map lights up in the FMU, I curled up one of the wires and electrical taped it to the plug. I could use that for the constant 12vdc needed by the FMU connector.

The ABS module is in fact located behind the passenger side kick panel. I removed the door sill (4 screws) then had to pry the sill loose as it has 4 clip/plugs. Once free from the sill I could then grasp the kick panel. This is a very tight fitting piece as it clips into the side of the passenger compartment with a clip near the floorboard /firewall and then has a clip located in the front on the side door sill. Once I got it popped out I can clearly see the ABS module. There are two bolts holding it in place and once I remove those bolts I should be able to get at the plugs and find the wire you described and then tap into it. I may have to route a wire through the passenger A-pillar as I don't know if I have enough wire to route all the way across the cabin to the ABS unit. We will see what I have to work with once I have light again.

You describe one of your connectors as 'Blue' and that your OEM sunroof connector is also blue. Both the 6 wire and 10 wire connectors on the FMU are white. My OEM sunroof controls connector is white. It does seem that the other wires are colored the same except for that mystery pair you describe as not being used. You show one as flesh tone, while mine is white. My 10 pin connector plug has 9 wires identical to the layout you show, all are identical except the flesh tone, mine is white and the same location as you show, bottom row with the missing wire at the right side. I should be abel to connect these up now My plug has about 5" of wire on each lead but still more then enough to splice in the required connections. Thanks again.

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

Well, good to hear you are getting the clock wire corrected. So what I read was correct...the ABS Unit was behind the pass-side kick panel. Glad you were able to find it!

As far as the flesh tone colored wire goes, it is probably considered White, but compared to my other wires that have a bit of white on them, it does not look white at all.

Both the Blue/White wire and Flesh tone colored wire are not attached. However, Soljah seemed to think they connected to some sort of light dimmer:

-White to sunroof switch light dimmer
-Blu/White to sunroof switch light dimmer

This could be the case, but where they connect, I do not know. Besides, it seems it is just a function I do not really need anyway.

(Oh and I edited my previous post here and there, but only since other members might read this and I do not want to confuse them.)

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Update: The weather had turned bad here so I am not able to really do any work on the truck. I don't have a location under cover to allow me to work so I just deal with it. I decided that I would need some more wire so stopped by the local bone yard and was able to find a crushed Honda and savaged the harness out of it. Was already crushed so the Yard guy just let me have it. Striped the harness of several long sets of wires so now I have "automotive" wire for my other connections.

Have the passenger A-pillar removed, ABS unit removed and the GREY/BLUE wire identified. Still need to remove the passenger visor and then I'll push the wire from the opening down the pillar and to the ABS unit. With the above supplied information, I should be able to get this installed this weekend if the weather cooperates and I don't have too many basketball games to referee. I'll update again later this weekend.

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Update:
This will be the last installment on the FMU install on my 98 4Runner.

Resolved the wiring issue with much help from Rock Slide. Thanks again so very much for all your tutledge. I made a few discoveries during the final wiring and install of the unit into my roof. If you don't remove the posts on the mirror mounts the cover will not fit properly. There are support rods in my roof area that will not let me fully seat the console so that it is flush with the head liner, oh well it still looks like its suppoed to be there. Ran two wires down the passenger A-pillar, one for the motion sensor (ABS) and the other for the light dimmer (Clock #3/green wire). Worked out really well. I salvaged a Honda ignition harness from the junk yard and used some of the longer wires for the final runs. I also was able to use the split protective covers that are used on many wire bundles. I used a 1/2" sleeve about 6 inches long. Worked perfectly for housing the new wire bundle. Grouped them together and then taped it shut. now I can push the entire wire bundle up into the roof recess and not worry about hanging up any wires, and makes for nice easy removal.

Performed a test on the unit and everything seems to be working correctly except for temperature. I need to find out if there is a calibration procedure as was only reading 1 to 2 celesius and I know it had to be around 20-24c. Compass works perfect and when you are moving the "roadway" moves! I plan on finishing up the pictures, studing how to post them then will do a write up with the pics.

If any one here is contemplating doing this mod, Rock Slide is a great asset. And now that I have installed one, I would be happy to help you get through it. This has been a fun project. More to follow!
ritzy

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

Nice work . You'll definitely enjoy having the FM!

Looking forward to the "official" write-up

Rock Slide

iTrader: (1)

Dale, I finally got around of posting a picture of my working FM for the banner photos atop the site, so be on the lookout for it

bibragetux

Good post. I appreciate it
Thank you so much for the post. It's really useful.
Thanks a lot for the information

Mauzer

There is another JDM field monitor up for auction right now on ebay, here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-H...Q5fAccessories

ESQ

Rockslide:
Actually, mounting the the T sensor in free stream won't give a colder reading than ambient. It will read ambient. Heat may be lost more quickly in fast air, but the temperature of the sensor will bottom out at ambient unless it is wet (then you'll get evapourative undercooling) or it is in sun (radiant heating giving a higher reading).