Fan Clutch/fluid coupling rebuild; 22r
10-08-2003, 08:17 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Shandon, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fan Clutch/fluid coupling rebuild; 22r
So I found a repair for the fan clutch of 22r(X). I've been having that slow heating at low ground speeds after reaching nor.op. temp. signs. of a fan clutch.
Any way found this link: http://slowspeed.com/repair/fanclutch.html
Just wondering if anyone has done this. Silicone fluid is $30.00 at dealer and a rebuilt fan clutch is in the $90.00 range. I'm going with the DIY option.
Wanted to post for feedback from anyone who has done this, or share this info with first gen owners, if they find themselves in the same situation.
309K on original fan clutch, can complain about that.
Nathan
Any way found this link: http://slowspeed.com/repair/fanclutch.html
Just wondering if anyone has done this. Silicone fluid is $30.00 at dealer and a rebuilt fan clutch is in the $90.00 range. I'm going with the DIY option.
Wanted to post for feedback from anyone who has done this, or share this info with first gen owners, if they find themselves in the same situation.
309K on original fan clutch, can complain about that.
Nathan
Last edited by growinseed; 10-08-2003 at 08:20 AM.
10-10-2003, 07:55 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Highlands, NC
Posts: 682
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have done this exact fix and used that site as instruction. My 3.0 was over heating. When it was hot, I would open the hood and spin the fan around 3-4 times- the clutch was bad. I first tried a cheap ($40) universal clutch from Autozone. It was a piece of junk. Only 1/3 the size of the original clutch and it slipped just like the bad clutch. I found that slowspeed repair and tried it. I ordered the silicone because the dealer was out. It was $10 a bottle. Definetly shop around. It was easy to open up the clutch. you will need a LARGE philips screwdriver. I had to tap the back of the screwdriver with a hammer to loosen the screws. No fluid will come out if its opened with the front (coil spring) facing up. This is something I learned on mine. My clutch was slightly different than the one shown in the pictures on slowspeed. On the front half there was an adjusting screw to adjust the temp that the fan comes on. This may be all thats needed to do unless yours has leaked fluid. The other way to adjust is to bend/twist the coil spring so it opens sooner. When I adjusted the internals on mine the fan actually stayed on all the time. I had to take the fan in/out at least 6 times before I got it right. BTW I race RC cars and I think the silcone shock fluid is the same as the clutch fluid and much cheaper, BUT it comes in different weights. This is definetly a good DIY as the stock clutch is very high quality and should never wear out. This is just standard maintenance even if its every 200k miles. If you have any questions just ask.
10-10-2003, 09:03 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Shandon, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I should clarify, the 'oil' from the dealer is $11.00 per bottle, each one is 18ml. as per the slow speed instrutions. So $35.00 total for all the fluid I need.
I have to look around for the adjusting screw. I just don't understand how all of a sudden the adjusting screw would get out of wack after holding fast since '85. I'll also look around for signs of leakage. Since all oils do break down over time its probably time to refresh the 18 year old fluid.
I got the fluid yesterday and hope to jump into this one early next week. All make sure to keep the spring side up to keep the mess to a minimum.
Thanks Chris,
Nathan
I have to look around for the adjusting screw. I just don't understand how all of a sudden the adjusting screw would get out of wack after holding fast since '85. I'll also look around for signs of leakage. Since all oils do break down over time its probably time to refresh the 18 year old fluid.
I got the fluid yesterday and hope to jump into this one early next week. All make sure to keep the spring side up to keep the mess to a minimum.
Thanks Chris,
Nathan
10-10-2003, 10:19 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Highlands, NC
Posts: 682
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea, replacing fluid may be all thats needed. The 2 adjusting screws are inside on the front half of the clutch; if you have them. I think the reason for the adjustment is the coil spring either wears out or gets tempered and doesn't move as much. Also , don't remove the o-ring. Its a real pain in the ass to get back in. It stays in pretty good, but I knocked mine out on accident. I wouldn't cut like they say on slowspeed because it may leak badly.
07-06-2009, 02:04 PM
#6
Registered User
Trending Topics
03-08-2014, 03:40 PM
#9
Registered User
03-08-2014, 03:59 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
fan clutch
Thanks for posting that Durk. maybe you know the answer to a question. I just noticed tha the fan clutch in my 22r motor has been leaking for the past few weeks. I've been trying to figure out where the oil was coming from. Today when I turned the motor off the fan just kept spinning for a bit. I also found out that I can stop the fan when the motor is running. Is this clutch worth refilling do you think? Why has the oil run out of it?
03-08-2014, 04:27 PM
#11
Registered User
Thanks for posting that Durk. maybe you know the answer to a question. I just noticed tha the fan clutch in my 22r motor has been leaking for the past few weeks. I've been trying to figure out where the oil was coming from. Today when I turned the motor off the fan just kept spinning for a bit. I also found out that I can stop the fan when the motor is running. Is this clutch worth refilling do you think? Why has the oil run out of it?
Testing the fan clutch:
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.
1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be careful, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.
Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”.
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.
1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be careful, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.
Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[SouthEast]: Mercury Villager Fan & DCC Fan Controller
coryc85
Misc Stuff (Vehicle Related)
6
09-09-2015 06:24 AM
