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Old 04-06-2003, 10:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Factory Locker??

Heya all, i was kind of looking to do a factory locker into my rear and hopefully soon a new front solid axle... what i am wondering..is all the sites ive found include modification because they used a 4cylinder rear end, and the locker was available with the v6 rear, correct? is the turbo rear end the same as the v6 rear end as i understand it to be.. or am i wrong? if im right, that would mean i dont need to modify the rear housing, correct?

thanks for all the help guys....
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Old 04-06-2003, 10:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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To get the E-locker you take out your differential that has the 4 cyl gears and put in a diff with e-locker and V6 gears. You have to do the grinding, drilling tapping and pounding on your diff housing to make the V6 diff fit.
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Old 04-06-2003, 11:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jx94148
To get the E-locker you take out your differential that has the 4 cyl gears and put in a diff with e-locker and V6 gears. You have to do the grinding, drilling tapping and pounding on your diff housing to make the V6 diff fit.
This is a fairly misleading statement and one that doesn't really answer the question on the table.

4 cyl and V6 housings are virtually identical, the diffs are the only difference, and they are swappable between the different housings with no modification. The only housing that IS different is the factory equipped e-locker housings. So unless you get a housing that came with an e-locker from the factory, you will have to do grinding, drilling and tapping...
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yuck, i dont want to cut and weld and tap and all that, maybe ill just go with a detroit truetrac..... i really want cable operated oxlocker style.... i hear there's a kit from downey to do that with the yota locker... thanks for the info
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eighty7ToyTruck
yuck, i dont want to cut and weld and tap and all that, maybe ill just go with a detroit truetrac..... i really want cable operated oxlocker style.... i hear there's a kit from downey to do that with the yota locker... thanks for the info
there is a kit, and if you do any serious wheeling, a truetrac is gonna suck. i say suck it up and go either ARB or e-locker if you want something that isn't an auto locker....
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally posted by Eighty7ToyTruck
yuck, i dont want to cut and weld and tap and all that, maybe ill just go with a detroit truetrac..... i really want cable operated oxlocker style.... i hear there's a kit from downey to do that with the yota locker... thanks for the info
The cable operated locker from Downey is a replacement for the motor on the E-locker it still requires Grinding, Drilling, and Pounding.

The Detroit Truetrack on the other is LSD which you fit it your existing axle housing without modifying it. It is not a true locker though.

Andy
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah, i think ill probably do an electric swapped to manual rear and the same in the front eventually..... i really want an electrac, the limited slip locker.... but noooo, not for toyotas..
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 44Runner
4 cyl and V6 housings are virtually identical, the diffs are the only difference, and they are swappable between the different housings with no modification.
The V6 housings have a deeper rear cover.

Here's a few pics of the work to swap in an electric locker, if you have everything needed on hand it's a one day job. I should be bolting this axle under my truck in a couple weeks so I'll have more pics and a writeup on that page.
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shane
The V6 housings have a deeper rear cover.

Here's a few pics of the work to swap in an electric locker, if you have everything needed on hand it's a one day job. I should be bolting this axle under my truck in a couple weeks so I'll have more pics and a writeup on that page.
i said "virtually."

you do have to pound out the rear cover doing the e-locker mods on a 4 cyl housing. it is in all the write ups...
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eighty7ToyTruck
yeah, i think ill probably do an electric swapped to manual rear and the same in the front eventually..... i really want an electrac, the limited slip locker.... but noooo, not for toyotas..
Can't use the cable kit in the front, spring is in the way besides the fact that you first have to get a solid axle up there which involves lots of cutting grinding and welding...

You can always swap a differnt axle (Dana 44/60, Ford 9", etc...) in that allows use of the other electric locker, just keep in mind not all gear ratios are available on different manufacturers' axles.
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 44Runner
you do have to pound out the rear cover doing the e-locker mods on a 4 cyl housing. it is in all the write ups...
And you don't on most of the V6 housings.
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Old 04-06-2003, 01:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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getting a solid axle up front isnt the largest concern at this point, as i have found one, going to get it this week, and start building it before it goes in...its gonna cost me $1k to have it put in, aligned and all that good stuff, and once i have it put in with the 4 or 5" lift and shackles, im thinkin about 4.56s and 36s but i know i at least want to lock the rear up......
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Old 04-06-2003, 01:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eighty7ToyTruck
4.56s and 36s
5.29 would be a better match, 4.56 will leave you hurting with anything larger than 33s.
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Old 04-06-2003, 01:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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5.29s? geeze, thats awful low, hell i got 4.30s now with the 235/75s and i am lucky to hit 75 miles per hour on the interstate... maybe somewhere near 4.88s?
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Old 04-06-2003, 01:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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4.10 - ~29 stock puny tires and manual tranny
4.56 - 31 stock "upgraded" tires and manual tranny
4.88 - 32-33 some autos with 31s
5.29 - 35+
5.71 - don't bother with these.

The question for you is are you revving too high at those speeds or do you just not have power?
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Old 04-06-2003, 01:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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maybe ill run 33s, either way, i wont decide that until i have rebuilt and built up the motor and added more boost....
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Old 04-07-2003, 06:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eighty7ToyTruck
maybe ill run 33s, either way, i wont decide that until i have rebuilt and built up the motor and added more boost....
No dude, you were thinking right the first time. 35s are the way to go. Why do a SAS and then get puny tires. You will definately need 5.29s with 35s though....
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Old 04-07-2003, 04:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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ok, so i think im gonna do 5.29s and 36"s or 37"s, so who wants to tell me about detroit lockers? im thinking thats what i want to run, and how hard is it to change from birfs to longfields? or is there something stronger than longfields that i could run? i have a tendency to beat the hell out of anything i drive..... so stronger is better
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Old 04-07-2003, 06:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eighty7ToyTruck
or is there something stronger than longfields that i could run?
Ya, a Dana 60

The longfields are just like swapping out a birf.
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Old 04-07-2003, 06:48 PM   #20 (permalink)
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dana 60? that kind of defeats the whole not fullsize thing eh? so longfields are stronger than birfs then? that sounds like a plan to me
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Old 04-07-2003, 07:13 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I think it was on the PBB where someone was estimating 30% stronger than stock birfs.
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Old 04-08-2003, 08:02 AM   #22 (permalink)
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maybe ill run 33s, either way, i wont decide that until i have rebuilt and built up the motor and added more boost....
How are you adding more boost to an '87 Runner? How is it getting any boost at all? Is it a turbo?
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Old 04-08-2003, 08:46 AM   #23 (permalink)
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How are you adding more boost to an '87 Runner? How is it getting any boost at all? Is it a turbo?
One would assume he has a 22R-TE as that would be a stock option in 87...

Then again there are plenty of other ways to go for forced induction...
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Old 04-08-2003, 09:15 AM   #24 (permalink)
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FYI I currently have 4.30s and 32" tires. Its WAY too tall for any decent crawling. The speedometer seems to be right on the money though. I see dual cases in my distant future. I'd have to sell my motorcycle to do that now though. That's not going to happen.
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Old 04-08-2003, 09:25 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jx94148
FYI I currently have 4.30s and 32" tires. Its WAY too tall for any decent crawling. The speedometer seems to be right on the money though. I see dual cases in my distant future. I'd have to sell my motorcycle to do that now though. That's not going to happen.
Keep in mind that no matter what gears you have in your axles, you will never be able to crawl without some other major form of reduction like a second t-case or lower t-case gears. axle gears are just for the road. if i was building a trail only rig i would just keep 4.10s. They are stronger and you already have them. even 5.71s (bad idea in any rig) don't make a rig crawl worth a darn.
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