Extending Automatic Transmission Life (Long)
02-22-2004, 03:39 PM
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Extending Automatic Transmission Life (Long)
I don't know where my thread went but I'll post again.
I've posted it elsewhere, but perhaps you guys will find it relevant as well.
Here are some suggestions that will help to extend the life and increase the durability of your automatic transmission.
These things are especially important for severe duty applications, but are also applicable to almost all vehicles.
1) Check your fluid level regularly- although fairly obvious, many people neglect to do this- or do this wrong.
Consult the vehicle's owner's manual if you are unsure as to how to do this correctly, as it can vary between different vehicles.
If you need to add fluid, it is always indicative of a leak. Unlike motor oil, your transmission fluid level can only go down if you are losing it somehow.
2) Service your transmission regularly- transmission fluid breaks down in the same way that motor oil does, but this is a step in preventive maintenance that is often ignored.
I've rebuilt countless transmissions over the years that clearly were never properly maintained- many of them had never had a single fluid and filter change.
Many manufacturers have different recommendations on the service intervals, but I recommend that this be done once a year or every 15- 20,000 miles.
3) Install an external transmission cooler- you've all heard the cliché that heat is the number one cause of transmission failure, well it's true.
A reduction of 40 degrees in your transmission fluid temperature can double the life of the unit.
When shopping for a cooler, a stacked plate design is far superior to a "tube and fin" type. If you're going to go through the trouble of installing one, you may as well put on the best kind.
On this same subject, it is also always a good idea to insure that your vehicle's cooling system is in optimum condition- most automatics utilize a fluid to antifreeze heat exchanger that is built into the radiator.
4) Install a transmission temperature gauge- with a gauge you will be able to tell when your trans is getting hot before it's too late.
5) Add a friction modifier- there are a few excellent products that can be added to your automatic trans that will significantly increase the life of the transmission. I recommend the products that are made by LubeGard.
On the same subject, avoid at all costs the auto parts store "mechanic in a can" and "stop leak" type products- they are mostly seal swelling agents and will usually harm the trans rather than help it.
6) Install an in line cooler filter- most automatics have some type of filter, however, there is always room for improvement.
Factory filters vary in effectiveness; many transmissions use something that isn't much better than pouring the fluid through a screen door.
The idea is to eliminate contaminants such as small metal particles and loose debris as effectively as possible.
In line filters are inexpensive, easy to install, and are highly effective in removing damaging contaminants from the transmission fluid.
I recommend the ones made by Magnafine and Filtran- in addition to their filter element, both of these products have a bypass valve in case they become clogged and also an internal magnet to further aid in trapping ferrous debris.
7) Use a synthetic based fluid- automatic transmission fluid serves many functions. It provides cooling and lubrication, it is the hydraulic fluid that applies the clutches and bands, and it even "drives" the car through the fluidic coupling that occurs in the torque converter.
It stands to reason that a synthetic fluid is much less susceptible to breakdown, a better lubricant, reduces friction and also has the capability of reducing operating temperatures.
More importantly, in cases of extreme cold and extreme heat, fluid made with a synthetic base stock is much more stable from a viscosity standpoint. If you don't believe me, try to pour "dinosaur" oil out of a container at -10 Fahrenheit- it's not exactly going to serve very well as a lubricant when it's the consistency of Jell-O.
8) Check transmission problems promptly- most transmission problems start out small and will get worse over time. Often times, major repairs can be avoided by taking care of a problem early on.
If you see a warning light on the dash, see a few drops of fluid in the driveway or even just have a feeling that something isn't quite right, there is no better time than the present to get it checked out.
9) Install a shift kit or modified valve body- while normally thought of as a "high performance" modification, almost any vehicle will benefit from shortening the shift time, reducing overlap and "cleaning up" the shift quality. This in turn reduces heat and also reduces wear on the clutches and bands.
Many of these modifications also address certain factory design shortcomings and eliminate common drivability complaints.
Most of the better engineered products have shift quality settings that are adjustable to achieve a result that is appropriate for the intended usage. The person with an 11 second rocket will have different needs than the person who occasionally tows a trailer with his SUV.
I hope that I didn't bore anyone with this long post.
-John
I've posted it elsewhere, but perhaps you guys will find it relevant as well.
Here are some suggestions that will help to extend the life and increase the durability of your automatic transmission.
These things are especially important for severe duty applications, but are also applicable to almost all vehicles.
1) Check your fluid level regularly- although fairly obvious, many people neglect to do this- or do this wrong.
Consult the vehicle's owner's manual if you are unsure as to how to do this correctly, as it can vary between different vehicles.
If you need to add fluid, it is always indicative of a leak. Unlike motor oil, your transmission fluid level can only go down if you are losing it somehow.
2) Service your transmission regularly- transmission fluid breaks down in the same way that motor oil does, but this is a step in preventive maintenance that is often ignored.
I've rebuilt countless transmissions over the years that clearly were never properly maintained- many of them had never had a single fluid and filter change.
Many manufacturers have different recommendations on the service intervals, but I recommend that this be done once a year or every 15- 20,000 miles.
3) Install an external transmission cooler- you've all heard the cliché that heat is the number one cause of transmission failure, well it's true.
A reduction of 40 degrees in your transmission fluid temperature can double the life of the unit.
When shopping for a cooler, a stacked plate design is far superior to a "tube and fin" type. If you're going to go through the trouble of installing one, you may as well put on the best kind.
On this same subject, it is also always a good idea to insure that your vehicle's cooling system is in optimum condition- most automatics utilize a fluid to antifreeze heat exchanger that is built into the radiator.
4) Install a transmission temperature gauge- with a gauge you will be able to tell when your trans is getting hot before it's too late.
5) Add a friction modifier- there are a few excellent products that can be added to your automatic trans that will significantly increase the life of the transmission. I recommend the products that are made by LubeGard.
On the same subject, avoid at all costs the auto parts store "mechanic in a can" and "stop leak" type products- they are mostly seal swelling agents and will usually harm the trans rather than help it.
6) Install an in line cooler filter- most automatics have some type of filter, however, there is always room for improvement.
Factory filters vary in effectiveness; many transmissions use something that isn't much better than pouring the fluid through a screen door.
The idea is to eliminate contaminants such as small metal particles and loose debris as effectively as possible.
In line filters are inexpensive, easy to install, and are highly effective in removing damaging contaminants from the transmission fluid.
I recommend the ones made by Magnafine and Filtran- in addition to their filter element, both of these products have a bypass valve in case they become clogged and also an internal magnet to further aid in trapping ferrous debris.
7) Use a synthetic based fluid- automatic transmission fluid serves many functions. It provides cooling and lubrication, it is the hydraulic fluid that applies the clutches and bands, and it even "drives" the car through the fluidic coupling that occurs in the torque converter.
It stands to reason that a synthetic fluid is much less susceptible to breakdown, a better lubricant, reduces friction and also has the capability of reducing operating temperatures.
More importantly, in cases of extreme cold and extreme heat, fluid made with a synthetic base stock is much more stable from a viscosity standpoint. If you don't believe me, try to pour "dinosaur" oil out of a container at -10 Fahrenheit- it's not exactly going to serve very well as a lubricant when it's the consistency of Jell-O.
8) Check transmission problems promptly- most transmission problems start out small and will get worse over time. Often times, major repairs can be avoided by taking care of a problem early on.
If you see a warning light on the dash, see a few drops of fluid in the driveway or even just have a feeling that something isn't quite right, there is no better time than the present to get it checked out.
9) Install a shift kit or modified valve body- while normally thought of as a "high performance" modification, almost any vehicle will benefit from shortening the shift time, reducing overlap and "cleaning up" the shift quality. This in turn reduces heat and also reduces wear on the clutches and bands.
Many of these modifications also address certain factory design shortcomings and eliminate common drivability complaints.
Most of the better engineered products have shift quality settings that are adjustable to achieve a result that is appropriate for the intended usage. The person with an 11 second rocket will have different needs than the person who occasionally tows a trailer with his SUV.
I hope that I didn't bore anyone with this long post.
-John
02-22-2004, 05:54 PM
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Lets not forget to flush the tranny, as opposed to merely draining the pan, which only gets about half the fluid. Simple enough to flush it by disconnecting a tranny cooler line, starting the engine, and letting it drain. Easy to keep up wit the fluid by adding new in the top filler tube. Figure on about 2-3 gallons to do it right.
Beware of scorched fluid. If you've managed to burn it by working it to hard or running it low, replace the fluid.
Beware of scorched fluid. If you've managed to burn it by working it to hard or running it low, replace the fluid.
02-22-2004, 10:24 PM
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I always thought that the redundant transmission coolers were mainly for people who have the supercharger or tow heavy loads? Can transmission fluid be cooled too much?
02-23-2004, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Auratus
I always thought that the redundant transmission coolers were mainly for people who have the supercharger or tow heavy loads? Can transmission fluid be cooled too much?
In practice, however, it is very difficult to that.
At our shop, we use a self regulating style of cooler anyway. The coolers that we use are pretty much non-functional until the transmission reaches normal operating temperature.
-John
02-23-2004, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Transdude
In theory, it is possible to overcool a transmission.
In practice, however, it is very difficult to that.
At our shop, we use a self regulating style of cooler anyway. The coolers that we use are pretty much non-functional until the transmission reaches normal operating temperature.
-John
In practice, however, it is very difficult to that.
At our shop, we use a self regulating style of cooler anyway. The coolers that we use are pretty much non-functional until the transmission reaches normal operating temperature.
-John
When I was at your shop having the valvebody upgrade done, you looked at the TRD cooler that I have and remarked that it was a good design and more than adequate for my vehicle. Most of the guys prefer not to use the TRD cooler because of cost, which is beside the point, and opt for something from Hayden; they then up size it assuming that bigger is better and implying that the TRD cooler might be too small. Your comment?
02-23-2004, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ManyMods
Hi John,
When I was at your shop having the valvebody upgrade done, you looked at the TRD cooler that I have and remarked that it was a good design and more than adequate for my vehicle. Most of the guys prefer not to use the TRD cooler because of cost, which is beside the point, and opt for something from Hayden; they then up size it assuming that bigger is better and implying that the TRD cooler might be too small. Your comment?
When I was at your shop having the valvebody upgrade done, you looked at the TRD cooler that I have and remarked that it was a good design and more than adequate for my vehicle. Most of the guys prefer not to use the TRD cooler because of cost, which is beside the point, and opt for something from Hayden; they then up size it assuming that bigger is better and implying that the TRD cooler might be too small. Your comment?
Again, I prefer the self- regulating style of cooler.
Here is a link to the coolers that I use, sell and recommend.
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml
I believe that PN 4454 is dimensionally similar to the TRD cooler while there is also another one with the same footprint but is 1 1/2" thick, rather than 3/4"(PN 4589).
-John
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02-23-2004, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Transdude
The TRD unit is probably more than adequate for almost all applications, but going a little bigger isn't going to be harmful in any way either.
Again, I prefer the self- regulating style of cooler.
Here is a link to the coolers that I use, sell and recommend.
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml
I believe that PN 4454 is dimensionally similar to the TRD cooler while there is also another one with the same footprint but is 1 1/2" thick, rather than 3/4"(PN 4589).
-John
Again, I prefer the self- regulating style of cooler.
Here is a link to the coolers that I use, sell and recommend.
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml
I believe that PN 4454 is dimensionally similar to the TRD cooler while there is also another one with the same footprint but is 1 1/2" thick, rather than 3/4"(PN 4589).
-John
Should I replace my cooler or am I all right?
BTW, I have been paying close attention to the driving characteristics of the valve body upgrade you did and although the mild programing borders on overly firm under light throttle ( I would not recommend anything firmer for most applications), the WOT shifting is like silk ... smooth, firm and instantaneous with no pronounced slippage or harshness. I like it very much.
02-23-2004, 03:48 AM
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Here is a link to the coolers that I use, sell and recommend.
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml
I believe that PN 4454 is dimensionally similar to the TRD cooler while there is also another one with the same footprint but is 1 1/2" thick, rather than 3/4"(PN 4589).
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/coolers.shtml
I believe that PN 4454 is dimensionally similar to the TRD cooler while there is also another one with the same footprint but is 1 1/2" thick, rather than 3/4"(PN 4589).
02-23-2004, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ManyMods
Sizing the cooler is by GVW?
Should I replace my cooler or am I all right?
BTW, I have been paying close attention to the driving characteristics of the valve body upgrade you did and although the mild programing borders on overly firm under light throttle ( I would not recommend anything firmer for most applications), the WOT shifting is like silk ... smooth, firm and instantaneous with no pronounced slippage or harshness. I like it very much.
Should I replace my cooler or am I all right?
BTW, I have been paying close attention to the driving characteristics of the valve body upgrade you did and although the mild programing borders on overly firm under light throttle ( I would not recommend anything firmer for most applications), the WOT shifting is like silk ... smooth, firm and instantaneous with no pronounced slippage or harshness. I like it very much.
Your cooler is perfect, once you install your gauge and are able to quantify trans operating temperature, I'm sure that you will be pleasantly surprised by how cool it runs.
-John
02-23-2004, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Transdude
Hi Peter,
Your cooler is perfect, once you install your gauge and are able to quantify trans operating temperature, I'm sure that you will be pleasantly surprised by how cool it runs.
-John
Your cooler is perfect, once you install your gauge and are able to quantify trans operating temperature, I'm sure that you will be pleasantly surprised by how cool it runs.
-John
02-23-2004, 05:33 PM
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John,
Is it ever too late to add a tranny cooler. My Tacoma has 100K on the clock. Its all stock. SHould I think about adding a cooler to it? These PA hills are murder on a tranny. My truck has to constantly shift.
Is it ever too late to add a tranny cooler. My Tacoma has 100K on the clock. Its all stock. SHould I think about adding a cooler to it? These PA hills are murder on a tranny. My truck has to constantly shift.
02-23-2004, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey
John,
Is it ever too late to add a tranny cooler. My Tacoma has 100K on the clock. Its all stock. SHould I think about adding a cooler to it? These PA hills are murder on a tranny. My truck has to constantly shift.
Is it ever too late to add a tranny cooler. My Tacoma has 100K on the clock. Its all stock. SHould I think about adding a cooler to it? These PA hills are murder on a tranny. My truck has to constantly shift.
02-24-2004, 07:18 AM
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Transdude,
What is your opinion of the remote transmission coolers that use a normal spin on filter? Looking at the Hayden/BM thinking the extra surface area and ease of replacement is a bonus. Does the spin on oil filter bypass work sufficiently? I also noticed Hayden has a "thermostat" for tranny fluid which I assume does the job your cooler does bu mechanically and adds another failure point (I assume). Am I correct in that yours is not mechanical but works off of oil viscosity? How bad is it to run too cool? When adding a cooler, how long does it take for the oil to come up to temp?
Indianapolis IN -10 (occasionally) to 100
2004 SR5 4Runner V6 4speed
Thanks for all the good info!
What is your opinion of the remote transmission coolers that use a normal spin on filter? Looking at the Hayden/BM thinking the extra surface area and ease of replacement is a bonus. Does the spin on oil filter bypass work sufficiently? I also noticed Hayden has a "thermostat" for tranny fluid which I assume does the job your cooler does bu mechanically and adds another failure point (I assume). Am I correct in that yours is not mechanical but works off of oil viscosity? How bad is it to run too cool? When adding a cooler, how long does it take for the oil to come up to temp?
Indianapolis IN -10 (occasionally) to 100
2004 SR5 4Runner V6 4speed
Thanks for all the good info!
Last edited by spyder; 02-24-2004 at 07:20 AM.
04-11-2004, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBadBlue
I have a 91 4runner with the AT. It was last serviced in 2001 @ 174K. It now has 207K and I assume time to change the fluid. How much fluid do I need? Dexron II? Ben
Regards, John
04-11-2004, 06:27 PM
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Thanks for the info, John. Very informative and well-presented.
Do you happen to know of any shops in the Northwest (specifically Portland or Seattle?) that are trustworthy for VB upgrades?
Mick
Do you happen to know of any shops in the Northwest (specifically Portland or Seattle?) that are trustworthy for VB upgrades?
Mick
04-11-2004, 07:30 PM
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Lets not forget to flush the tranny, as opposed to merely draining the pan, which only gets about half the fluid.
About a year and a half ago I got a job up at Mammoth Mountain. So before I leave, I decide to get the tranny serviced since it's about that time anyway. I take it to Torrance Transmission, which according to my dad, is a very good place to go. They drain the fluid and notice it's really thick and black. They call my dad and tell him they want to flush the tranny to get everything out. He gives them the ok.
I get it back, and as soon as I accelerate, the tranny slips (1st only). I get home and tell my dad what happened. The next day he takes it back, but they can't reproduce the slipping.
I ended up posting the problem here, and every response I got was
"If the fluids black, don't flush it. It'll just make the tranny start to fall apart."
I feel so ripped off because if everyone (who replied) on this board knows that, why did the transmission place not? Or was it that they knew what was going to happen and just wanted me to pay out the @ss to get it rebuilt?
The good news, if there can be, is that it's been like this for over a year and hasn't gotten worse. Still slips in first and won't shift out of first until it's warmed up, but still works fine other than that. I just had to get that out.
